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So finally got to camp and installed the fuel upgrade kit. Works like a charm, runs great. Getting a lot of fine sediment in the clear glass bowl. Should have flushed tank while apart but dont have resources at camp for that. Will just empty bowl often and hope it clears up. Still having problems with 4 wheel drive, I think it is out again. Have tried everything. I wish someone could come up with a more durable fix.
Follow up on problem. Changed fuel filter, nothing. Added every fuel additive on the shelf at parts store, nothing. Tried fuel cap again, nothing. So started to take things apart. Pulled off banjo fitting on injector to drain tank and only a trickle came out no matter where the petcock valve was positioned. Tried to remove sediment bowl, could not (does it come off, I think not). Tried to unscrew sediment bowl apparatus from tank. Petcock valve handle blocked by a brace under tank. Removed two small screws holding valve handle in petcock and diesel began to pour out along with bits and pieces of who knows what. Luckily there was only a couple of gallons of fuel in tank and most went into a bucket. When drained unscrewed sediment apparatus and saw screen protruding into tank had broken apart with most screen missing (probably the prior seen bits and pieces). Diagnosis, ran well after sitting awhile because fuel slowly trickled into line and injector, maybe when running and jostled some fuel flowed mostly not though, so eventually stalled. After waiting fuel again trickled in and the same process over again. I have ordered an upgrade system from Ranch Hand Supply and will install at next visit.
More to followSo was at the camp and used the tractor. Needed to do a job without potential failure so took a short cut and ran the tractor with the fuel cap loose. Stalled in about 45 min, but did start up and run again in about an hour. Did not have time to mess with filter this trip but will try that next.
Thanksjinma 254/25hp, shaft is 24.75mm/.970 in
.70 in from groove to groove
bad news yesterday the guy at the shop gave me his big suggestion, a round bore universal with a keyway utilizing one of the grooves in shaft 24 for the key. it goes without saying I did not take his advice thanked him and brought all the stuff home. back to square one.
pulled off rear cover and a tap with my hand pushed the shaft and rear bearing out the back. took the part to the shop doing the work and the guy who will actually do the job looked at it and was a little less optimistic than the fellow I saw yesterday. one concern was that whatever is done to the transfer case shaft still has to allow the cover and seal to slide over it for a seal. I was thinking maybe to fill the groves up by welding and then machining the shaft to a square or hex that would allow a standard universal coupler to slide on and pin in place with a roll pin. the front end should be easier as the shaft exposed from the front gear box is splined. would a square or hex in the rear be able to handle the required torque. also everything must fit inside the weldment cover or some kind of cover.
any thoughts would be appreciated
thankspart is labeled 24 in pic above, moves about 1/2 inch forward, are the gears beveled? if so maybe they only can be pushed to the rear
jinma 254 I will try to post pics
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Thanks I am a frequent and liberal user of anti seize, but do find it lacking in situations like this pin. Constantly exposed to the elements the duration of effectiveness seems diminished. Is there a product more specifically suited for this situation?
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