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The oil looked ok, maybe a small amount of water, condensation?? No shavings, filled with napa 80/90 gear oil. The front axle does have a dip stick and used that to determine when full
axle
I was able to get the drain plug on the left side wheel drive out. Tool of choice was female side of 1/4 in drive extension. The other 2 were previously stripped by me. My question is to drain the axle I raised the front end with the bucket and tipped the left/open side down. Got a lot of gear oil out I would say at least 2 gallons. Is this an inefficient but ok way to drain the axel?
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Any suggestions on where to drill and tap should that come to pass?
2 cents worth here, just bought a Kubota 39 hp with tier 4 engine as the 4 wheel drive went out on the jinma again and I was stuck to the frame in the field again. Impulse took over and the Kubota dealership is the closet tractor place to me. The tier 4 engine with the reburn system requires a minimum running rpm of 1800 and has problems if you idle at lower rpms for any period of time. Basically I was told start it, run it at 2000 rpm and if you stop working shut the tractor off, don't idle. Seems like a pretty sophisticated system, I hope the Chinese engineering is up to it. As for the jinma 4 wheel drive system there has got to be an upgrade that well stand up to working in wet grass and some mud. I tried the slug mod with 8mm bolts and got no better results.
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I tried the “slug” mod in place of the 8 mm ball bearings. Used non threaded portion of 8mm bolt, tapered one end, cut so as 10mm long, it looked like a pistol bullet. Maybe slightly easier to put back together, working well so far.
Back in the 70's I had someone turn down a piece of steel rod to make one for my Triumph TR4 clutch job. Still have it today, it is a beast of a center punch!
I live in a house built in 1904 which originally had gas lamps. Some of the lines are still there and using special hooks the terminal fittings are now used to hold hanging light fixtures. Beware when you work on them as many are still live! My electrician buddy has told me that many times as he disassembles for one reason or another he starts to hear hissing and has to yell for someone to turn off the gas!
thanks tommy, I looked at the ranch hand web site and am not going to spring for the cost to make the mod. just curious but what are the hydraulic quick connects in the rear for anyway
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Maybe I am stupid/ignorant but isn't the addition of a second relay in the starting circuit essentially redundant. It seems on my system the starting device has 3 contacts. One is ground the second is a direct connection to the positive battery terminal and the third is the switched lead from the starter switch ( I have learned not to call it an ignition switch). When the starter switch is closed and that contact is energized this energizes the electromagnetic switch of the solenoid/relay attached to the starter motor which then allows the full faith and credit from the battery to energize the starter motor. Seems like once again it is a small wire used to close contacts and energize a big wire, right?
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