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I am interested in adding hydraulic toplink to my Jinma 254 can anyone help. I have quick connects for the lines in the rear. I think I found the link and hoses at Surplus center but am unsure of what control valve is needed.
thanks
I have had the same cold weather problem with spinning but not engaging the flywheel. sometimes it takes one or two turns of the key to make things happen. I have also had the problem seem to take a different tack and not sure they are related. when it is bone chilling cold for prolonged periods I turn the key to start and nothing happens. the contacts which energize the electrical system and glow plugs work on the key switch but no go with the starter. when this happened shorting the contacts on the starter always got things going. I was sure it was the key switch, but any sort of cleaning and reconnecting really did not change things. finally it dawned on me to check the clutch safety switch and eliminating it has completely solved the problem. the starter switch activates every time and I think there is less of the spinning but not engaging the flywheel issue. I would think the clutch switch is a low current situation and any contact would be enough to pick the solenoid for the starter, but interested to hear what those who know more think
thanks
hey tommy, does my jinma 254 have a separate res/pump for the power steering. I was not aware it did
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yesterday I drained and refilled the injector pump with iso 100 compressor oil when I drained the pump counting what initially overflowed plus amount drained total was prob 10-12 ounces. so far no overflow has occurred this time I did carefully measure what I put in very close to 6 ounces total to come up to halfway on the little dip stick
iso 100 compressor oil was the rec same as sae30 nd oil right?
sorry to beat this dead horse, but new development this am. went out to the garage to fire up and check for leaks. before starting checked engine oil, it was fine. checked injector pump oil and as soon as I pulled the dip stick oil began flowing out hard to say how much but several ounces. put the dip stick back in to stop flow and fired up the tractor let it run and checked again, still flowing out when dipstick pulled this time just let it run another ounce or 2. to a syringe and tube and sucked out 2 ounces till when the dip stick was put in the level was between the marks. hard to say for sure but had to be 4-6 ounces which came out total. seems to be straight compressor oil, not mixed with diesel or engine oil. all I have taken apart is the hard fuel line connection and the check valve body on one cylinder.
any thoughts, thanks
off to line-x of the Bronx Monday morning, always a trip when having work done on your vehicle in that borough
MY KINGDOM FOR AN O RING!
In my case it was an 15.6×1.78mm Viton o ring that sealed the deal. I only had to by 200+ o rings to find the right one, but…
Cost to solve the problem 30 bucks
Satisfaction from solving the problem, priceless!
thanks
went to harbor freight and got about 300 o rings for the price of the 10 I got from McMaster carr. I will see what I can do and hold off on thread stuff for now
thanks
I got some rings from mc master carr. not sure they are quite big enough. I measured the old one with my caliper and though I was ok. got 15mmx1.5mm. looks like I should have got the 15.5mm by 1.6mm as the problem is still there. any thoughts about permatex #3 formagasket. read some stuff about using thread sealer and potential for down stream problems/clogs. especially with tape sealers, but they are recommended in much of what I have read and by my cousin a 30 year diesel mechanic with the mta here on long island
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