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So far my pinion modification is still working…… but if the disengagement happens again I will chuck the snout of the starter housing in my Bridgeport and mill 1/16″ off the mounting face to bring it closer to the flywheel.For easier mounting I am thinking I could drop the starter snout into a square mold and pour concrete around it.That square block of concrete holding the starter snout would be much easier to mount in my milling vise.
Mr.Rooks;Thought I had subscribed to all posts but no alerts to your reply were in my email.I have about 30 starts on my regrooved/undercut starter.And I did not take extra care with the original brushes on commutator profile matching. So far,so good.Don L.
Mr.Privett;That galled bolt was located in the same hole the rear head indexing sleeve is in (the sleeve helps align the installation of the head). Both the front and rear sleeve were “self tapped ” because they were slightly smaller than threads on the bolts.I cleaned those sleeves of all roughness but did not have the “bottom tap” that you recommended.
The bolt did take the 105 torque recommendation with good feel.I will let the forum know if the status changes on the 50 hour retorque. Don L
Mr.Privett; I did find the rear left head bolt galled.I recontoured the treads on the bolt to an angle and tapped that bolts original hole to allow for” finger tightness”.Only three threads are involved so I hope that will suffice.Don
Gentlemen;Thanks for all the responses.
The oil analysis had paid for itself with my 2010 truck as it allows me to have less oil and filter changes .
Hopefully it will have been used early enough in this situation with my tractor.
Don L.
Forum;Thank you all for your expert advice.Tommy,Sir,I needed a ballpark figure so calculated flow by discharging into a bucket; but I trust your numbers more.I think I will go with a 4.5″ cylinder and use my hydraulics and later maybe an upgrade to a PTO driven pump.Can anyone tell me if I need a resevoir if I use the PTO pump later??
Thanks again,Don L.
I found the problem.Twelve volts going into the 30 amp fuse,and zero exiting.The crimped wiring that holds that 30 amp fuse had loosened and was not making contact.I simply leveraged the fittings more closely so that portion of the fuse made contact.
Because of everyone's help I fixed my problem plus accumulated some valuable electrical data.Thanks again,Don L.
Thanks members,These are all great links and important pieces of info.Will let you know what I find.Don L.
August 27, 2012 at 5:03 pm in reply to: American Made – American Standard (Great Customer Support) #35029I also have had excellent product support from American Standard.Our kitchen sink faucet began to leak at the swivel after 6 years and replacement O-rings failed because the swaged part of the goose neck was distorted.American Standard replaced and shipped a new goose neck for free.Now I know why my wife insisted on that $130 dollar faucet!
All right,As is often the case I corrected my own problem.The Farm Pro manual calls the plate I am having trouble with the “selector guide”.It can be positioned two different ways but only one way is correct.The correct mounting position is on the same side of the transmission cover that the dipstick hole is.I took a picture of it with my phone but service is terrible ,as usual .Will post that picture later.Don
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