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Hopefully I will have my new piston and piston rings tomorrow. This brings me to my umpteenth millionth question… Does anybody know what the proper ring alignment should be? Doubtful that the ring set will come with instructions.
I am definitely replacing the head bolts. They did not look so good. Especially the ones on the side where the head gasket was leaking. Those had quite a bit of corrosion on them. I’m surprised I actually got them out without breaking them. Definitely was counting my blessings there!
I almost think that someone replaced the head gasket before but did not check the pistons. The head bolts definitely looked like they had scratches on them leading me to think that someone has been in the engine head before. Remarkably the block surface and the head surface still appear to be quite flat. Using a machined metal edge and feeler gauges no gap is larger than 0.002 in.
As far as I can tell all of the other Engine components appear intact but I’m no engine guy . At this point I am going to try and begin piecing it all back together as soon as I get all of the parts here. I have five more days until I have to go back to work!
Yes I think I figured out the blow by problem that’s for sure! On more careful inspection this morning (after a few hours of sleep) realized another piston is also cracked. This certainly makes me a little more nervous about the block. I am going to go ahead and replace all three pistons, rings and sleeves just to be safe.
Btw , I have been getting my parts through Circle G Tractor online store out of Nashville, Tennessee. They have been super helpful as I don’t have a local dealer for Jinma. Highly recommend them.
Well I am pressing on. I removed the head and head gasket today. Tons of carbon buildup on the heads and piston heads. I spent about two hours just cleaning the head and the block. I decided to go ahead and remove the pistons and inspect the piston rings since I was already there.
I accessed the pistons by removing the oil pan and the oil sump filter cage (which is just above the oil pan). I was able to access the piston arms and release them from below. From there I Was able to push the pistons out from below up through the engine block and out the top.
The first two pistons and the liners looked OK. The third piston was very hard to get out. When I finally got it out I noticed why it was so hard to remove. The piston had actually broken in between the first two rings and a little pieces of metal were all jammed up in between the other rings and causing significant issues. I’m glad I went ahead and removed the pistons! Thank you all for your advice. Everyone was spot on on just about every point.
I can’t believe I actually did this. First time I’ve ever done anything like this. I’m actually buzzing with excitement! I have the same feeling now that I had the first time I assisted in surgery and looked inside the human body.
I’m going to replace that piston and probably go ahead and replace all of the rings and liners. hopefully I will remember how to put everything back together!
Well I think I figured it out. Once I got the thermostat replaced so it stopped overheating I was able to run it wide open for about 2 hrs. This is what I found……I guess I’ll be doing a head gasket this week. Hopefully that’s all it is.
Blow hole floppy gasket video
All great comments as usual! What would I do without you!
The radiator looks good when looking down the neck .
I removed the spring as it just didn’t make sense. Doubtful that was the source of overheating but a spring sitting loose in that housing just didn’t make sense.
Is there any reason why you couldn’t just do away with the thermostat all together for diagnostic purposes? if there is not a thermostat in there then I should see immediate flow of fluid through the radiator therefore confirming that my water pump is still good. Correct?
I’m wondering too if that flappy gasket on the side plate could be part of the excessive blow by to the dipstick? I’m hoping so! Makes sense that if it was moving like a diaphragm pushing against the respirator hole it would be occluding the normal path for blow by and increasing the pressure out of the dipstick. That doesn’t explain the large amount of oil in the respirator cup though????. I’m thinking too that (as someone mentioned earlier) this machine may need less oil in it. I may try running it for a while on 3.5-4 quarts versus the 6 quarts I’ve been putting in to see if that makes a difference.
If all of this doesn’t work then I’ve acquired some courage and I’m ready to remove the head and inspect the head gasket. If the head gasket does not look bad then I must assume it is a piston ring issue (or other pathology) so I may just winch her onto the trailer just like that and take her to the engine shop and have them do a rebuild.
I’ll try the bolts in the tank trick while I mow next time. I cleaned it the best I could but was Wondering how to get all that rust out.
I went back out to work on the farm pro tonight. I remembered to check the respirator tube on the right side of the engine. I removed it and then I also removed the side plate that the respirator is attached to. The gasket Underneath just fell apart after removing the side plate. It was like wet cardboard. I’ll be replacing that now.
I decided to take the thermostat out of the thermostat housing. I noticed that there is a little radiator hose off of that housing that makes a 90° turn back down into the water pump. I’m guessing it is some sort of bypass tube? Anyway there was a little spring sitting down in a little hole off to the side? I have no idea why there would need to be a spring in there. It did not look like it was supposed to be there but maybe it is?
due to the overheating problem so I decided maybe I should spend a little bit more time cleaning the radiator. I took my flashlight and even though I had washed it for about 15 minutes the other day I still cannot see light going from one side to the other so I am guessing that the radiator is just completely full of junk. Will probably try and get some engine degreaser or something just to saturate the radiator with and then maybe use a water hose attachment to work on it some more. Hoping that’s going to fix the overheating problem.
I really like both of your thinking processes. I can tell that you guys have spent a lot of time “under the hood” . I really wish my dad had taught me these things when I was young. I am the father of four boys under the age of 12. I have thoroughly enjoyed spending time with them over the last few weeks tearing these tractors a part. They seem to be having a good time as well.
If I can keep it from overheating I really do like the idea of just running and working it really hard. I was thinking about capping the dipstick tube off just to preserve some of the oil loss to see what happens. I have noticed that if I take the blow by tube off and bring it higher up that the oil coming out of the dipstick doesn’t come out as much. I don’t know why that works but obviously has something to do with pressure.
While waiting for the new thermostat and the parts for the Farm Pro to come in we decided to tear apart the AgraCat and figure out why the ignition wasn’t working. Boy oh boy oh boy! What a mess!. The starter switch was wired wrong but took us completely taking off all of the fiberglass pieces disassembling the fuel throttle levers and taking out the dash to figure it all out. Oh, and removing the steering wheel that was busted. That’s going to need a replacement wheel now! The price of this tractor is going up and up and up and up! This then gave me the opportunity to remove the fuel tank and to clean it all out. The fuel level Device was disconnected so I removed that from the fuel tank and cleaned it. Hopefully I will be able to wire it back up to make it work or I may have to buy a new one. Wondering if I should just buy a new fuel tank as there is a ton of rust in the bottom of it but I think I will just clean it out real good and call it a day.
I did find the two main hydraulic lines that you were mentioning or at least someone was mentioning before. I think that you had suggested disconnecting those lines from the loader and connecting them together to see if that would affect the power steering if I am correct? I may try and do that now that I have easier access but with the missing steering wheel and I will have to wait for that to come in. I did find the two main hydraulic lines that you were mentioning or at least someone was mentioning before. I think that you had suggested disconnecting those lines from the loader and connecting them together to see if that would affect the power steering if I am correct? I may try and do that now that I have easier access but with the missing steering wheel and I will have to wait for that to come in.
thankful this morning though for all that I am learning. Thankful as well that I was able to go to church this morning with my family. Felt good to be back doing something that I love. Everybody at church was wearing masks and everyone’s temperature was checked. Hand sanitizer required before entry. Very small group of believers but great to see people making it work in these strange times nowadays. hopefully you all are having a blessed day. So many things to be thankful for! I am thankful for your wisdom and advice.
