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yes it does it is 20 weight, I think it is a little light for gears in hot climates but winter coming up so you should be ok for awhile.
Cool!!!
Now it’s starting to make sense…maybe. I didn’t realize that the J20D was 20W oil. So then the J20C is also 20W I presume. The John Deere manual I have doesn’t mention any oil recommendations for warmer climates though. It simply says J20D.
Thanks much for your reply!
Thanks for reply.
I think I’m just going to try the J20D Trans-Hydraulic oil for now. The J20D Trans-Hydraulic oil bucket doesn’t say that it is 140W. The description doesn’t mention any viscosity numbers at all.
I’ll see how it goes this winter.
Thanks much Piper!!
I just now finished putting the 5 gallons of J20D into the Chinese tractor.
The manual says to wait 48 hours before checking oil level to make sure oil has settled. I don’t mind waiting.
I always have trouble reading that dipstick for the transmission. Do you have that same type dipstick on your Jinma 284?
front end 4 wheel drive gears and geared transmissions 75/90 or simular i would not use 140 wt . oil. , If it has a hydro pump here in southern Tn. I use aw -46 in lift systems and if has seperate power steering resivour I use aw-32 . I have found that universal tractor fluid here is to heavy in winter. just based on my uses. 15/40 in all my diesel engines.
Thanks much for information!
I know next to nothing about tractor fluids as you might have noticed.
Are you saying that universal tractor fluids are 140W oil? That universal tractor fluids are actually thicker that 80W-90 gear oil?
I have a 2006 Jinma 284. If your manual calls for the Hy-Trans then by all means use it. 80W-90 will not work in hydraulics, it is gear oil. I often move snow well below zero and have problems with even ISO 22 fluid being too thick. At -20 with a strong wind the surface area of the cylinders act like big cooling fins and I sometimes have to get out of the wind to let it warm up enough to operate for a little while. Is your manual from the manufacturer or from the importer? Jinma made a lot of tractors for a lot of different “Brands”. However, some of those other brands also bought tractors from other manufacturers so it is a little hard to tell who actually made them. What make, model and year is yours? I might have a way to look it up. Mine came to me in the factory crates. As I assembled it I drained, flushed and replaced all the factory fluids, including the sludge they call fuel. The front axle was the worst, it had chunks in it that looked like jelly. I flushed that with paint thinner before re-filling. 80W-90 in front axle, trans/diff. ISO 68 in hydraulics, later changed to lighter weights. Clean dyed diesel in the tank and flushed through all the system. New Napa filters on the fuel and engine. Rotella T-4 in the crankcase and governor. Never had a speck of trouble. 950 hours later it still has the original NAPA fuel filter. Oil changed after 10 hours. Other fluids after 50. Oil changes now every 100 ish hours and other fluids at 500. Coming up on the big job probably next summer, depending on how rough the winter is.
Thanks much for reply Piper!!Your knowledge is much appreciated!Mine is 2007 Lu Zhong 254 tractor. I also received mine in crates and had to assemble it. The maintenance manual I have came from the manufacturer.It is a manual 4 speed transmission (with a clutch).Also have a small John Deere 870 with a 3 speed manual transmission (also has a clutch). The JD 870 manual calls for J20D Trans-Hydraulic fluid for everything including hydraulics. The only info I found for J20D oil said that J20D oil is better for colder climates than J20C. So I decided if J20D is good enough for John Deere, it may be good enough for LuZhong. Will see what happens when weather gets below zero here.Both tractors have small 3-cyl diesel engines.For engine oil I’ve been using Rotella 15w-40.The hydraulics uses plain hydraulic fluid, not Trans-Hydraulic The transmission and rear differential use 80W-90 gear oil, not Trans-Hydraulic Trans-Hydraulic is for use in drive systems that share fluid with the hydraulic system. These transmissions are usually hydrostatic in nature (no clutch or manual shifting). While Trans-Hydraulic might work it is not the best choice and it cost more than necessary for your tractor. I would not use it unless your tractor manual specifically calls for it. Don’t go by the hype on the label of the bucket in the store. When you fill the transmission it will get to a point where the oil will flow into the rear diff before the entire system gets “full”. The reason there is a separate drain plug for the rear diff is that it holds fluid that is lower than the flow through point and you can’t get it all out by just draining the transmission. The hydraulic tank only holds a couple of gallons after the cylinders and hoses are filled. The trans and diff hold a little more than 5 gallons….I think. I don’t remember for sure and I run mine a little “over full” according to the dipstick. This raises the level so that that upper shafts get more oil and it quiets the gears considerably. This is based on some advice I got when the tractor was new and in 17 years I have never had an issue with it. I do periodically drain a little fluid from the bottom of each sump and the front axles just to make sure any water gets removed. Then top off if needed.
Thanks much for reply!!
Can I ask what kind of tractor you are referring to? Do you have a Nortrac or similar Chinese tractor? The reason I am asking is that you are telling me to use plain hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics. But my manual says to use same oil for the hydraulics, the transmission/rear differential, and the front axle. My manual says use the same type fluid for all of those parts. Will 80W90 gear oil work for my hydraulics? That doesn’t sound like a good idea in this cold climate.
Thanks to all for your valuable input on this subject.
I have never been sure what to use, since the manual
states to use the same lubricant for everything
except the engine oil. I have only found one forum
that recommends AW100 over the 80W-90 GL-4.
Because the 80W-90 would be much thicker in colder weather
than the AW100.
Do any of you here agree/disagree with either way?
Is there any reason why the AW100 should not be used? :scratch:I most definitely agree.
Have already had to change key switch a few years back.
I too think that my meter will not read the low ohms
and that the plugs might still be ok to use.
Yes I have isolated the glow plug circuit to see if there was a short somewhere else.
But starter and lighting circuits works great.
No other shorts or fuse problems.
I would have to agree that the wire gauge does
look too small for the glow plug circuit.
And that the plastic body design of the key switch
does not seem adequate for higher amperage.
I will try to do the 40 amp relay circuit. But want to find a 12V push button type switch. My key switch from a local Farm Supply doesn't have an isolated/designated terminal for the glow plugs.
Well actually I just have a flat copper strip
that bolts down to the top of each plug
connecting them all together.
Then one wire that connects to the copper strip
so that they are all energized at the same time.
It's pretty roomy around the plugs and I keep the area
clean with the power washer.
I've had each plug out and could see no visible damage.
But I suppose maybe something could short out inside
that I can't see.
Thank Tinbender.
