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Hi Bob and thanks for your time– Are you familiar with Shells top of the line transmission oil SPIRAX GL-4? and could it be used in trans case or clutch tank.? I think you recommended aw 220 machine for the clutch, and 85-90 w for the transfer case(not the final drive). And should I plumb the empty tank, lft side for the shuttle clutch oil?? research shows quite a variety of the 220 oil(sewing machine)–around $70-100 per 5 gals…….I think this is enough for me to take on for now!! thanks, Jeff
Hi Bob–Jeff here………….On the floor board, there are 2 fill holes; the one in front of shifter is labeled clutch case, and the rear one, gearbox. Not to be confused with final drive-one on each side. Under oil recommendation, it says-engine sump=30w high ash rimula, transfer case/transmission box=40w high ash rimula, hydraulic sump=iso 32//sae10…………nothing about shuttle clutch. AND, my left tank is not being used! In that compartment–battery side- there is a cylinder(accumulater??) with one line going to it from rotator valve. when I removed it, a small amount of dirty oil came out(all the oil sumps are full of see-thru clean oil) What is the function of this spring loaded cylinder? I'm fairly certain the importer I purchased from had never set up a crawler before, and he is no longer in biz. Will I have to drain oil to check/clean strainer? As a licensed denturist, I spend more time grinding on teeth than gears. I can handle the mechanical part, I'm just a little short on the functional knowledge of this beast. I have the feeling I'm gonna get to know it better in time……and thanks for your time and patience………. , Jeff, Gold Hill, Oregon
………Hi guys–I'd just like to jump in here and say that I have all the exact same issues with my yct 306s crawler.I recently changed all the oil with the recommended grades—shell rimula 40wt for transfer case, 10wt hydraulic, 30 wt engine. But there are 2 fill holes on floorboard–front one for clutch case, rear one for transfer case, and only the right side hydraulic tank is in use. It will run and shift normally for about 5 mins, and then will abruptly stop with NO neutral to be found. I can wait 10 mins, start up and it will be okay briefly. I am about ready to suck it up and pay someone to get it fixed, but can't find anyone willing to work on these Chinese machines. Does anyone know of mechanic in the Medford, Or. area who will?? thanks, Jeff
