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The shaft in the left side (camshaft side), of the pump moved freely side to side, about one inch total. It is connected to the governor in the right-side housing and controls how big a shot the injectors get.
When the shaft is far left, it's full delivery; far right is complete injector shut-off.
So it's far left with engine off or being started, but in my case, it pulls clear to the right when the engine catches and starts up. Which immediately cuts off the fuel going to the injectors.
I held a screwdriver to prevent the shaft from moving all the way right, and the engine started up and kept running. If I held it all the way to the left, I would likely cause it to overspeed.
The metal pieces in the bottom of the left housing (camshaft), were thin and mangled. Tommy guessed they were shims used to calibrate the pump shots.
I'm about to remove the whole injector pump and see if I can fix whatever is wrong on the governor side. but my hopes of success are fading and have just about resigned myself to getting a new $500 pump. Not a huge deal, and Tommy and Harold deserve some business for all the free phone time they've spent with me. I just won't have the satisfaction of getting to the component-level root cause and fixing it myself.
Thanks for all the entertaining banter, gentleman. It's fun to read and I'm feeling better as I think I'm closing in on the cause.
Yesterday, every time I tried to start it, no matter what the throttle position:
30 sec. glow
after 5 seconds of cranking, it sputters to life.
Tach jumps up to about 1,000 for a moment, then dies.
So I start thinking…governor. Talked to Tommy and Harold at Affordable and they steered me to the mushroom-shaped vent. Removed: it's bone dry. Put in 4oz. compressor oil.
Removed fuel / priming pump assembly. Barely any oil on floor of housing, but distressingly, some chewed up little metal pieces.
I heading to the farm right now to remove the 4-screw access plate on the housing behind the pump. Tommy told me to move a shaft in there back and forth as it might be stuck. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Spring Valley: Thanks for the exploded drawing of the pump. It looks a lot like mine, but not quite. Can you post another one? Not sure what to ask for, tho.
Thanks David and Bob for your input. Yes, the air intake is one of the first things I checked and it's fine.
Rich, Tommy was away but I had a couple pleasant and informative chats with Harold at Affordable. He's very familiar with that engine.
Here's where I am as of today: pulled all three injectors, one at a time. Swiveled the pipes around and all three are now out away from the engine. When I crank the engine with the starter, all three puff out a little blast of finely divided mist, 1-2-3 in sequence. From what I read and see on-line, this is how it should behave. Of course, I cannot tell if they are timed right by just doing this.
Before I re-install the injectors into the block, can you think of anything else I might try while they are out? Again, it died suddenly while I was backing up the other day, and now only coughs to life for a short moment when trying to start.
I do appreciate any guidance and insights anyone may have and realize how difficult it can be to diagnose problems this way or over the phone. Thanks again.
Thanks for your input, Rich. It sounds as good anything I suspected, although I have no experience with injector pumps.
What do you think are the chances of the drive tang being rounded off on a 2004 tractor with less than 400 hours?
I've always been a pretty good amateur mechanic / fixer of many things, but a pump / injector job has me a bit intimidated. Time to call a professional, or??
Thanks for your help.
The previous owner of my Iron Horse had a lot of tractors and implements on his property and came recommended from another guy with tractor experience. But his advice had me wondering??
I found this link (Rocky Mtn.), while searching for Jinma info, and its pix and descriptions matched what my Iron Horse looks like. I guess that's where my confidence in their recommendations came from.
Draining my front axle of hydraulic fluid seems straightforward enough, but should I be concerned about the ATF that remains in the loader lines and cylinders after I've drained the reservoir?
Thanks again for staying with me on this, Bob. I do appreciate your input. Mike
Again, thanks for the input, guys. So here's my dilemma: The previous owner told me to use Dextron ATF for the PTO, 3 point, power steering, and loader. (That's what he used and I've added a couple quarts myself during the summer.)
An online Introductory User Guide for Jinma 284, put out by Rocky Mtn. Farm Pros in Golden, CO, calls for “a good quality lightweight hydraulic fluid”, in the transmission and front axle.
HELP!! Should I drain these systems and re-fill them with what I now believe to be the correct fluids, based on your advice? Thanks. Mike
Many thanks Rich and Bob. All your info is duly recorded in my tractor notebook. My $15 membership in CTOA is already paid off. Mike
Thanks for your reply, Tommy. I will check those tire pressures right away. When I stand dead center in front of the tractor, at some distance, I swear the top of the right tire is canted out more than the left one is. I'll try to make some measurements too. Do you happen to know what the angle is by design? I tried to do some measurements on a flat bench, just on the castings during a repair job, and it looked like about 3 degrees.
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