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Six years old? Wouldn't think a water pump would go out that soon, but it could.
Check as Spring Valley said. Start with radiator. You can clean by getting a hose with a sprayer down there and spray from inside to force dirt back out the way it came. Careful using a high pressure washer. That could bend the fins closed. Back flush the radiator. After that, look into the top of the radiator to see if you are getting a good flow.
Jack
People are hilarious...
I'm supposed to choose and be in one of the 2 parties. And NEITHER is worth a damn!I concur with Larry.
The “puff puff” of smoke and not steady suggests that one (or more) of the cylinders has bad/broken rings. See if someone you know has a compression tester. Or you may find one for a cheap price. Can you say… “harbor freight?”
Do the test first to confirm it. If it does indeed show a bad cylinder, then you will have to tear it down and replace the rings. You need to get a good look at the cylinders to make sure it didn't score the cylinder walls. If that's the case, then you'll be in need of a good machine shop or replacement if it's really bad. When you put it back together, replace all the rings and I'd also suggest new rod bearings since you are in there anyways. This keeps you from having to do it again for awhile.
Jack
People are hilarious...
I'm supposed to choose and be in one of the 2 parties. And NEITHER is worth a damn!Sorry TB… meant to use you as a reference on POR15…. being an autobody kind of guy and all. Just got stupid and pushed the post button before the brain could react fast 'nough…. duh….
Jack
People are hilarious...
I'm supposed to choose and be in one of the 2 parties. And NEITHER is worth a damn!Firewood… Firewood??….. I got firewood…. EVERYWHERE…. anybody want firewood, just bring a chainsaw and trailer. Little pissy jackpines growing like weeds. They took over. They pop up every year. Grow real fast. Burn real fast. There are much more admirable types of pine on the property, but they just don't seem to pop up as the jackpine does. Probably got a couple thousand of the little freaks anywhere from 1 to 5 feet tall and 1/2 to 2 inches round that I didn't get cut down in time. I got to wade through them just to get to the bigger trees that make respectable firewood and fenceposts. Their older brothers and sisters are slated for the chopping block. At least you can get logs out of those…. Firewood indeed…
People are hilarious...
I'm supposed to choose and be in one of the 2 parties. And NEITHER is worth a damn!Working on some real old equipment for a career has been more than a pain in the patute. We found that a product named POR 15 works great. Particularly in fuel tanks that rusted to the point of scaleing inside. You know…. where little flakes of rust keep you busy cleaning/changing the filters. It bonds to the metal. Lasts longer than paint. We cleaned the tanks with muratic acid and then poured POR15 inside. No more rust. Used it also on exposed blades and frames that were either not cost expediant or just too much time/cost to get to for paint.
Here's a link….. http://www.por15.com/POR-15/pr…..tinfo/1GB/
Jack
People are hilarious...
I'm supposed to choose and be in one of the 2 parties. And NEITHER is worth a damn!Just a thought…. haven't seen the old post. But have you done a compression test on the cylinders?
People are hilarious...
I'm supposed to choose and be in one of the 2 parties. And NEITHER is worth a damn!I'm thinking Bob has the best idea. Installing a WD100 Murphy switch kit monitors the oil pressure and temp. It also shuts down the engine when either is triggered. Depending on how much you want to get involved, there are “more advanced” kits to the Murphy line. The downside is the cost. The other ideas here are less expensive.
I'm thinking Phil needs a pretty big alarm over the sound of a dozer.
Here is a link in case you're interested….
http://www.fwmurphy.com/wd100/
Jack
People are hilarious...
I'm supposed to choose and be in one of the 2 parties. And NEITHER is worth a damn!Hal,
It's a JW3. Maybe not a great choice, but hey… it was already on it. For what I got to do… it works okay.
Phil,
Sounds to me that that's the easiest/cheapest route. Thanx
Bob,
Interesting link. Thanx. Some of it I knew but there was info there that is current and I wasn't aware of due to not keeping up with techno advancement. See? you can teach an old dog new tricks.
I also agree that steel would be better as maybe copper is too soft a material due to pressure and wear factors. I don't suppose you would have offhand at the top of your head the outside dimensions of the orifice and a starting point for the size of the hole. I then could enlarge it gradually till I get the desired handle response.
I guess the biggest problem I'm facing gentlemen, is the side swing and also trying to do finishing touches where I'm only wanting to remove/smooth material at the end of the dig. As it stands now, you literally have to “tap” the handle to get the B/H to move only a little. NOT what I'm used to… VERY frustrating.
Thanx all.
People are hilarious...
I'm supposed to choose and be in one of the 2 parties. And NEITHER is worth a damn!
