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Tommy,
Parts arrived in the mail at 4PM today and I was back to work by 4:30.
Thanks for your help and the fast shipment.
For other readers:
The spring was bent in the shifter assembly and prevented me from getting into rev. and 1st.
There is also a spring retainer washer that goes on the shift lever that was missing and needed to be replaced.
I also put a new gasket on while the top was off.
As noted above, the shift cover is very easy to remove and does not require any special tools or techniques. I replaces the spring and washer and reassembled the cover to the gearbox. After that, I was ready to go.
-Jim
Good news, I hope.
I took the gearbox cover off and see that the spring on the shift lever is broken. I am hoping that this is the issue, correct?
I looked at the gear box and the gears look OK. I don't find any damage to the gears.
Tommy, I will check out your site and see if you have this part. Is there anything else that you would suggest that I inspect?
I tried to attach pics but am having some difficulty with this format. Can I send them to your e-mail instead?
-Jim
Thanks for the advice. I am will get into it today and see what I can find. Just wondering, I have not taken the cover off of this tractor before, do I need any special tools or techniques when I go to put the cover back on?
The “auxiliary gear shift lever” is mounted on the gearbox plate. Is there anything I need to consider before removing the plate? By that I mean do I need to disassemble that shift before the plate will come off or does it come with the plate?
Any steps for removal and replacement would help me a lot.
-Jim
Yes, I had changed the gear oil this spring and it is still at the same level. Right on the mark.
-jim
Sorry for the delay in updating this thread. I got the new fuel shut-off/filter bowl assembly from Tommy and it appears that it was the answer. The tractor has been running well since replacing the part and with the new “clear” bowl, I can monitor the fuel flow.
Thanks again
-Jim
Update on my problem, I pulled the Tank Sediment bowl assembly off the tank and found that it was partially plugged. Probably just enough to cut off the supply to the engine and stall it. I cleaned out the rest of the system and the engine started.
I moved a bunch of dirt and rock yesterday. Seems to be doing well.
The Sediment Bowl/Filter/shut-off assembly will have to be replaced however since the mesh filter has a tear in it. I can't imagine how it got there but no use in keeping it in the tractor.
Tommy: Both of the Bowls that you have in your inventory look just like mine as far as the location of the ports, etc. I can't see enough detail in the pictures to see the difference. I guess I don't understand the difference in the tapered vs. straight threads. Can you explain this further? Which one would be the correct part for my tractor? I took a picture of my assembly if that helps.
Tommy,
Does your company sell just the sediment bowl alone or do I need to buy the complete assembly? The part number in your website is CO 708-1.
The part number in my parts manual that came with the tractor for the assembly is 180.50.021. Which one is correct?
The drawing of the part in the manual is so crude that I can't tell if it is correct.
-Jim
Thanks for the replies. I changed the fuel filter last fall just before I put it away for the winter. It was inside during the winter and started up well once it got warm enough here. Last summer I drained the tank, cleaned all of the in-line filters and replaced the main filter.
I will pull the fuel sediment bowl off and check for water today. I have one of the plastic-style bowls that is no longer transparent as a good fuel bowl should be. I think that I will pull it off the tank and replace it with a glass filter bowl assembly so that I can check it visually in the future.
It's a rainy day here today so I can't move dirt until it dries up a bit.
-Jim
I have a Nortrac 204C that I bought used last year. I stored it over the winter after installing an in-line coolant heater. I started it up about a month ago for the first time when the temperature was a balmy 50 degrees F and have been using it to move some dirt on my land.
After that first warm day, the temps here in Buffalo dipped into the low teens over night and only about 20's during the day. The dirt mound was not frozen but the ground was so I could still work.
I was starting it every day for about a week in the very cold weather. The heater seemed to me to do the most for the starting performance. I would put the heater on for about an hour and also, plug in a charger to the battery for extra boost. As long as the heater did its work, the engine started better than I had ever expected. I also used the compression release lever and glow plugs as noted in some of the posts above.
I do have one question about the glow plugs. How do you test the glow plugs to see that they are working short of taking them out of the engine and checking them on the bench?
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