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Okay guys, I got it solved. I worked on it tonight a little bit, and I just had to move the large alternator battery wire from the post on the relay that had the direct to battery cable to the post on the relay that originally had the direct to battery cable on it, before I put in the relay. VOltmeter showing 14 volts and it all seems good to go.
Thank you both for your help.Okay..
David and Democracynow. I decided to replace the starter, and add in the relay switch. I found a 100amp relay, and the stater I found and the QD1315A appears to be interchangable with the QD100c3, as the starter I ordered had QD1315a/YJQD100c3 as a part replacement number. I folded some metal and made a little stand off to mount the relay on and the standoff I drilled a hole and attached with the top starter bolt when I mounted the starter. It took me a little bit to figure out that the SI terminal on the selenoid on the starter had to be “jumped ” with a wire to the terminal on ther sterter with the incoming “positive battery wire” coming from the relay. (It makes sense to me after I thought about it awhile.
Anyway, it started up and my oh my did it make a difference it how fast and strong it cranked. Really night and day difference. Very pleased with your recommendations. However I have one issue, and it has to be a wiring issue cause it all worked okay befor e I changed the starter. The problem is my voltmeter is only reading 12V where before it was close to 14 volts, when running. ISuppose I should take a voltmeter and check it but maybe I can tell you specifically what terminals I place my wires on to get a check about correctness.
(I have a voiltmeter because years ago I replace the amp guage and key switch and alternator to try to improve charging, when I was thinking the slow cranking thing was the battery charge.)
I have the Red battery cable from the battery to one terminal in the relay. A jumper red battery cable from the other terminal of the relay to the terminal on the selenoid on the starter. I have a red battery cable to the same terminal on the relay as the main battery cable comes into that goes to the alternator. As I said before, I have a small jumper wire coming from the Starter selenoid terminal that has the red battery cable “jumper” from the relay attached to the si terminal (small terminal” on the selnoid on the starter. I have two small wires into the area, one numbered #2 (Starter selenoid -big terminal – Ammeter fuse), and other wire labled #11 (Starter Selenoid Interupt Switch-Starter selenoid small terminal). The parenthesis are from a wiring diagragm I had downlaoded when I was doing the voltmeter/key/alternator modifications. The #11 wire I have attached to the relay si terminal. The #2 wire goes from the kew switch and I have placed it on the terminal of the relay that has the red cable from the battery attached. I wasn’t getting a reading on the voltmeter when I had that wire attached to the terminal of the starter selnoid when I turned the key to the first position, which is logical since current wouldn’t be going to the starter selenoid before the key was turned to “start” to engage the relay.
So I think it is either the #2 wire, or the red battery wire that goes to the aternator that I could have in the wrong position. I am not sure that the alternator isn’t producing more than 12 volts, it just that it is not showing up on the meter. I remember reading when I did the alternator change, that the alternator needs to be reved to excite the alternator to start producing more than 12 volts, but I don’t think that is the issue because I didn’t have to “rev” it before, although it did speed the increase in voltage shoing on the voltmeter.
I had toyed with the idea of a cutoff switch earlier, when I thought I might have a parasitic drain causing the battery to be weak and crank the engine slower. Nice to see that photo, I might put one in.
I know this is long, just seeing if you guys can confirm the wiring.
Thanks again.Thanks for replying so fast, I haven’t been on the site for awhile but I remebered you has being pretty saavy about these tractors. When You say a old ford starter do you mean something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVRFM9MG/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aref=2OcZApT94u I am not very knowledgable about starting systems, but I can follow directions, and understand how things work for the most part.
Where and how did you mount it? I suppose somewhere where it is protected to some degree. You say have a good ground, so it would need to be bolted to a frame peice for example, or a bolt running thorugh the frame.
I think a typo in your post. Did you mean to say “When you put the key in start mode….”.
That all seems easy enough.
I did find a source for the original starter, but it wouldn’t make sense to replace it if it doesn’t fix the issue.
Thanks again.Don’t have a 3540, but have you checked under the seat? The 254 have the a filter under the cover plate, under the seat. No screw on filter.
Amazing how fast they poured 24 yards of concrete with that pump truck. This is going to be wooden framing 2×6 walls. There is a 6″ stem wall above the concrete floor, but it extends to the footing below the frost line, so the they are 48″ walls. I don’t know if you can make it out, but there are metal straps cast into the foundation walls at the corner of the garage doors. These are for shear strength, and will be nailed to the studs of the walls. There are bolts cast into the foundation to bolt the sill to.
The trusses, I’ve been working on with a company. In this county they have to have a certain load, (I think 40/20), but if there is plumbing in the floor it is boosted up by 10 or so, and that is what we have being planned.
Alot of guys use a water heater for their heating of the floors, but I understand that this is rather ineffecient, although it is the least expensive way to go. I am thinking of a propane boiler, in a closed system, so it will just be circulating the antifreeze. Also going to put in a point of use water heater at a sink inside. (I have a frost free hydrant inside the foundation. (My wife insists on the sink in the garage for washup.) Imagine that.
Thanks for your all responses. Since it was in the end weld, there didn’t seem to be much issue. If it were in the middle of the case, I would have had second thoughts due to being weaker and thinner, and maybe the heat deforming the cylinder somewhat.
Thanks for the encouragement.
OK probably get blasted for this but…
You guys got my courage up about how easy it was to take these apart. Did some reading and this was actually a pretty easy fix. I think I got it as I don’t see any oozing, runs, or oil residue when I have the loader raised.What I did, was disconnect the hose closest to the base. Unpinned the base end from its mount. Extended the cylinder piston, (to pull the workings away from the base end). Sanded the area, cleaned with brake fluid many times. Then welded the spot. Had to do it twice because I must have missed the spot the first time. I filed the weld down. I haven’t been able to knock the weld spot off. I guess I will see if she holds. Not out anything except a little labor.
Actually I have not. I suspect I would have to take it some distance to a shop, leave it then go back for it. I wouldn’t be able to use it while it was down. I will have to see about a place that might be closer.
I recieved a parts manual from Ameriquip and thought I would post it here for posterity. Kind of neat in that it lists the specs for the cylinders. Called a place referred to by Ameriquip, and the cylinder with the part number that I need was quoted at $463. OOOOOUUUUCCCCHHHH!!!!!!!!
I said I’ll look for alternatives.It is a “tang: fitment on the base end. I suppose that is a stronger end.
Yeah I had checked the surplus center. I did find Some made by Magistar Hydraulics that is pretty close. The tube ends widths I would have to measure. Maybe they could be ground narrower if they won’t fit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-Cylinder-Welded-Double-Acting-2-Bore-22-Stroke-Cross-Tube-2×22-NEW-/331906968612
