jmayo

I had a professor who’s favorite saying was “define your terms”. If you mean by “crazing” hairline cracks and yellowing, then I would say no. I did not see any hairline cracks at all, but imagine a 20 year old headlight. They were very yellow and very hazy. The sanding dust from them was yellow, and after sanding one would wonder if they did the right thing. But apply the clear coat, things just popped.

I imagine that if there were hairline cracks, they may still be visible after this process; maybe they would look better I don’t know. This was the first time I did this. Took about 15 minutes of effort, a couple of different grades of sandpaper, and a can of clear spray. The spray has uv protection in it. All I can say is that it was quite a change with minimal effort and a low cost.

Certainly not a body guy, but been doing some work on a 96 car. The lenses were pretty hazy and yellow. Saw where sand them with 400 grit then 800 grit ( I then used 1000). After that use some clear coat. I used rustoleum gloss clear coat (Most any hardware store has (3-4 dollars a can in the spray paint section). I must say they look absolutely beautiful, almost like new. Really impressive.

Yeah, it can be confusing when starting to look at it all, I know it took awhile for me to sort things out.
I think most have gone with the Delco 10 or 12Si because they are relatively inexpensive, size and fit is good with the Jinma’s, and they come in a variety of AMps. The 12SI is same dimensions as the 10SI but comes in a higher amp rating than the 10SI generally speaking. (The original alternator is something around 15-20 amps, I understand, so even 63 amps is a big upgrade.) Just how much output you may want depends on the added lights and other things you may have planned.

One wire or three wire? The rap against a 1 wire is that it has to attain a certain RPM to excite it to start charging the battery. (Not an issue with the 3 wire.) Some guys have used a 1 wire and changed the pulley on the alternator to increase it’s RPM at idle. I went with the 1 wire (they have a self-exciting regulator built in), I did not change the pulley, and without reving the engine the Voltage output will climb to 14.5 or so volts. I think I wired the #2 terminal on the alternator back to the Bat post on the alternator. FWW. Advantage-fewer wires to connect.

One other thing when talking about alternators, is the “clocking” of the alternator. Basically, where the 2 sensor electrical spades are located on the alternator. They can be re-clocked if it isn’t clocked right for your application, but it requires a little patience to do it, so save yourself a step and get the right clocking when you purchase it.

Changing the ignition switch would be up to you. I decided to replace it because a number of post say the original is doomed to failure, and mine was getting long in the tooth. I was going to have to pull it any way, to make wiring connections, so I thought I would replace the switch first, to make sure I had all my wires right, before I replaced the alternator. (I have this thing about changing too many variables at once. If I screw up, it is just easier to figure out what I did wrong. Been down that road too many times.)

I think as far as changing the ammeter to a voltmeter is frilly stuff. Just what kind of information you want. Some feel a voltmeter is advantageous.

This is just some of the things I learned, and my thought process for doing what I did.

No expert, and perhaps others will correct or add if I have said or have a misunderstanding of something. Problem was making things harder than it is. Wish you well.

Thanks. Not that many snowy days the past several years, but it is a real pain getting the girl started those cold days we have had. Been thinking of doing this. Now is as good a time as any.