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What size fitting did it take, when you removed the petcock? Did you use like a barb fitting?
Question. Wouldn’t the charging of the battery be dependant on the voltage being produced? If 14 volts is being delivered, that is higher than 12 volts (battery) doesn’t that excess voltage (flow) to the battery? (Simplistic, I know). If the lights and all accessories are on, and the voltage remains above 12.?, wouldn’t the battery charge? I will turn everything on and see if voltage drops too low.
Well, got the flashers working. There are 5 female recepticles, where the regulator was removed. The top receptacle is where the flashers are connected. Just ran a jumper from that receptacle to the ground. I believe this is all the same circuit that is fused by the 7.5amp fuse.
Thanks for suggestions.
Note: with this new alternator, I did not change to a smaller diameter pulley, and have over 14 volts on the meter without having to rev up the engine. (It starts at 12 then gradually climbs to 14 volts within 15 to 20 seconds or so)I am in Kansas. I probably won’t really have time to fool around with it till Thursday, but I plan to plug the regulator back in and check wires #8 and #9 that were disconnected from the old alternator, and taped off. Thanks
Mine (do not know if same model, but looks similar), is not a dipstick. It is a “breather” that is on a short threaded pipe that screws into the injector resevoir body. I have always just unscrewed the “breather” and it all unscrewed as one piece, leaving a hole where oil can be added.
A screw plug on the side is removed, and oil is added above until oil starts to run out the side plug hole. That is how I understand things.
Got a new one too, last week. Kind of said to the wife in passing several months to a year ago, “it would be kind of nice to have a tiller for the tractor”. Kind of repeated it a couple times over that course of time. Now that garden time is hear, it was “Why don't you get a tiller?”
So I got a tiller. I got a Land Pride, reverse tine 5 foot. Took it out and tilled the garden spot. I was totally amazed at how fine it worked up our clay soil. Like powder on top. Wife was all smiles. (She thinks I am a genius.)
When I replaced mine last year, I just got the battery with most cca I could find that would physically fit in the space. At least that was suggested somewhere. I don't remember the group I ended up with, but I thinks it was bigger physically than the original Chinese battery.
You might check this address http://www.atlanticimports.ca/…..manual.pdf It may not be too detailed, but it is the only one I have found online.
June 3, 2011 at 3:24 pm in reply to: 284 Engine Quit. Will run for about 5 seconds then quits again?? #32475This sounds very similar to the problem I had several years ago. (I didn't have low oil problems, just the other stuff). I was mowing and towards the end of the job it starts losing power and missing and dies. Pump the fuel injector primer, starts and a few minutes or less sputters and dies.
My problem was, ( as Bob would say) fuel bugs. Clogged the screen filter in the bottom of the fuel tank and atop the sediment bowl. Cleaned the tank, screens, and fuel filter. Runs like a champ again. Always treat fuel now and haven't had a problem in almost two years.
I have a Nortrac 254 znd experienced similar problems this last year. I was mowing and it started to koose power and miss. Gradually it died. Had to get off and fiddle with the injector pump. Would start and mow again, the it would loose power and die.
Changed the fuel filter and it ran okay for awhile until I was moving snow when symptoms reocurred. Took the screens out of the fuel tank, and the sediment bowl, to reveal the problem of those fule bugs, Cleaned the screens, and the tank, and it been running like new since
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