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You said you tried JB Weld. I assume the basic JB Weld that comes in two squeeze tubes. There are other repair materials that are more of a putty. I believe what I have used is called PC something. JB Weld may also have a putty. The putty stays in place and doesn't run. Insure the surface is free of paint and is clean. I use a paint deglossing fluid that does a good job of removing any surface oil. If you have access you may also rough the surface.
Your American Standard experience was better than mine.
I bought an American Standard (made in Mexico) wall mount sink through Lowes. After hanging it on the wail, I had a 1/4″ gap a round the top between the sink and the wall. As well, the sink was not secure to the wall. The front of the sink could be lifted up and down an 1″ or more. Lowes ordered a second sink. Before I took it out of the store, I set it on the counter and it rocked back and forth like a rocking chair.
American Standard's response was they consider it “close enough” and to fill the void with caulk. I have seen the same sink in public restrooms with gobs of caulk around the top.
As I recall the customer service center was in Ohio and the sink manufactured in Mexico. I can only conclude this is another situation where some company buys a quality American brand name and then uses the reputation to sell cheap knock-offs. Today you can buy new Farmalls, McCormicks and Cub Cadets, but they are not the same. All you are paying for is the name.
American Standard would not respond directly to me about the problem. The complaint had to go through Lowes. By the way, the Lowes department manager was very helpful in taking action.
Kent
Grumpy,
I have a 2003 FarmPro 2425. With 30-45 minutes of block heater and 30 seconds of glow plug, I have started near 0 degs with no problem. The tarp covered tractor sits outside.
I am not an expert, but if you are trying to have instant start at low temps, I'm not sure that is realistic. There's ether, but too much can cause serious damage.
If you want to leave your easy chair and go to the shed fro a quick start, maybe you could connect a remote wireless switch to the block heater. A Coleman Cable, Cat. No. 04602 is rated at 1500 watts with a 60ft range. Before your last cup of coffee, hit the switch.
Kent
I would say you are on the right track. I had the same problem. I removed the assembly and put in in a vise and still though it may not come off. It nearly destroyed my filter removal tool before it came loose.
Kent
Here's a procedure I stole from the net. May have been CTOCF. I used this on my FarmPro 2425. It's all done from the rear of the tractor. I don't know if the 354 is similar or not.
There's a picture from the parts book using the reference numbers (XX) that goes with, but I can't get it inserted into the post. Still trying to learn this new format.
3Pt Piston Repair Kit #GB3452.1-1992
Jinma 224 (30 min)
This will help you change the main seals in the piston under your seat.
1. Lift front of tractor eight or so inches off the ground.
2. Drain hydraulic fluid. The drain is the bottom left bolt on the rear cover
part #160.55.140-1 (46)
3. Remove rear cover
You will have to move the lift arms up and down part #160.55.013 (30) to remove
the following parts.
4. Remove pin 4×40 Part #GB/T91-1986 (35)
5. Remove bolt m8x12 GB/T5783-1986(32)
6. Slid pin over to the side Part #160.55.020-1 (33)
7. Remove the piston rod part #160.55.132-1 (27)
8. Insert a 5 mmx.08 screw welded to a shaft in the back of the piston part #160.55.130
(18) and pull the piston out
9. Replace o-ring 63×5.7 part GB3452.1-1992 (15) and the two plastic back up
spacers A63x2 part # GB3452.1-1992
10. Put grease on the o-ring and reverse the procedure.Thanks to both SpringValley and tinbender for telling me it's an Open Center instead of Closed Center System. I don't know where I got the information that it was Closed Center. I went back and read my manual and you are both correct, it's Open Center.
Thanks for preventing me from creating a serious problem.
Kent
