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I had the same problem on my McConell Marc 425 XL…I had no power at the key switch…I started checking the wiring with a test light…I tracked it down to the main 30 amp fuse under the dash…the fuse was good (it was a big weird looking fuse)..it turned out it was the connector where the fuse plugged into that was bad in the fuse block…one of the ears was broken and wouldn’t hold the fuse tight…I went to Auto zone got a new inline 30 amp fuse. I removed the wires from each side of the fuse block where the original 30 amp fuse plugged in (be sure to disconnect the battery) and spliced in the new 30 amp fuse to those wires and zip tied it up under the dash…problem solved…now it starts every time…
I am guessing but I would say the starter was stuck and the electrical system could not deliver the amount of amps the starter relay wanted so it popped the fuse. You bypassed the fuse when you used a screwdriver and give the starter a bunch of amps it wanted and it freed up. IT is a guess. Keep a eye on your fuel bowl for water and other junk since the tractor has sat for so long hopefully with a full tank.
Thanks Dave and Bob for your input….I do keep the tank mostly full (the fuel gauge don’t work…I check it with a piece of wooden dowel rod) and put power source fuel treatment in it with the Bio Diesel to kill the Diesel bugs that Bob talks about…I did put a new fuel filter on it last year…the guy I bought it from hadn’t changed the filter from when the tractor was new (eight years)…so far it’s been running really good….
As crazy as it sounds, I was Bush hogging today at 25°F. I worked it pretty good, but within an hour it climbed above 80°C. I would let it sit in it would quickly cool down to 45 to 50, but then working it again it would jump back up over 80. What is the upper running temperature of this tractor? And on another note, does anybody know the actual tire pressure for the front and rear tires? And I don’t need a smart a#% comment about reading the pressure on the tire because I don’t read Chinese. Thanks for any help.
My McConnell Mark 425XL (Jinma254) was running hot when I was brush hogging. The battery on mine was mounted right in front of the radiator blocking about have of it. I remounted the battery back by the clutch pedal between the fender and the seat in a plastic RV battery box and still have plenty of room for my foot to work the clutch. I reversed the pos cable back to the battery….the negative cable is grounded to the ROPS bar. I also put a recovery bottle on it. So far so good…no more running hot…..now I can brush hog all day long
As crazy as it sounds, I was Bush hogging today at 25°F. I worked it pretty good, but within an hour it climbed above 80°C. I would let it sit in it would quickly cool down to 45 to 50, but then working it again it would jump back up over 80. What is the upper running temperature of this tractor? And on another note, does anybody know the actual tire pressure for the front and rear tires? And I don’t need a smart a#% comment about reading the pressure on the tire because I don’t read Chinese. Thanks for any help.
My McConnell Mark 425XL (Jinma254) was running hot when I was brush hogging. The battery on mine was mounted right in front of the radiator blocking about have of it. I remounted the battery back by the clutch pedal between the fender and the seat in a plastic RV battery box and still have plenty of room for my foot to work the clutch. I reversed the pos cable back to the battery….the negative cable is grounded to the ROPS bar. I also put a recovery bottle on it. So far so good…no more running hot…..can brush hog all day long
I purchased my Jinma 304 tractor in 2002. I now have severe rust problems with the fuel tank. I removed the screen in the fuel sediment bowl and added two inline fuel filters prior to the injector pump. Has anyone replaced the fuel tank with a better substitute? My fix is just a bandaid (temporary). Need something better.
You can pull the tank and have it boiled out and recoat the inside with aftermarket sealer and that should take of it….I did one on my 48 Ford gas tank some twenty years ago and still no signs of rust inside the tank and it was pretty rusty inside. I put some gravel in it (a couple hands full) and shook it for awhile to break loose all the scale, dumped it out and rinsed it out with water and took it to a local radiator shop and had them boil it out and let it dry for a week or so. The aftermarket sealer should work with diesel with no problems. You dump the sealer in the tank and slosh it around until the inside of the tank is completely coated and let it dry. I don’t remember what brand sealer I used, but you can look it up on line. I hope this helps…
That’s pretty nice. Do you need a permit?
I don’t think you have to…I didn’t get one…. as long as you can move it and don’t enclose both ends it’s ok. The extra steel side panels cost me $120.00 dollars for eight ten footers…. four a side. It came with some pretty slick wind anchors you drive into the ground…I put one on each corner. Total cost was around $1,200.00…..
For any members looking for a reasonable priced carport to store their tractors under to keep them out of the weather. Lowes carries them for $999.00 and you put it up. I put one together about a month ago. Took three of us about three and a half hours to complete and is very sturdy. I put extra side panels on mine at an extra cost and picked them up at my local hardware store. The carport is 18 feet long,12 feet wide and 8ft 2 inches tall.
For any members looking for a reasonable priced carport to store their tractors under to keep them out of the weather. Lowes carries them for $999.00 and you put it up. I put one together about a month ago. Took three of us about three and a half hours to complete and is very sturdy. I put extra side panels on mine at an extra cost and picked them up at my local hardware store. The carport is 18 feet long,12 feet wide and 8ft 2 inches tall.
For any members looking for a reasonable priced carport to store their tractors under to keep them out of the weather. Lowes carries them for $999.00 and you put it up. I put one together about a month ago. Took three of us about three and a half hours to complete and is very sturdy. I put extra side panels on mine at an extra cost and picked them up at my local hardware store. The carport is 18 feet long,12 feet wide and 8ft 2 inches tall.
I replaced the battery in my 06 McConnell Marc 425XL (Jinma 254) this summer…I’m pretty sure it was a group 24 750 cold cranking amps. Mine was blocking half of the radiator and was letting the engine run hot after a couple hours of use so while it was out I started looking at relocating it. I relocated the battery back between the seat and the fender on the clutch side and there is still plenty of room for your foot and leg to use the clutch. I used an RV plastic battery box and bolted it to the diamond plate. I turned the pos cable around and fed it back through behind the steering box, but I did have to add a foot of cable to it so it reach the battery. I reused the neg cable and bolted right to the rops bar. It has worked out great and no more running hot…
