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Companies will often make models exclusively for the big box store chains. In order to be competitively priced, the quality is often inferior to there standard models.
I purchased an American Standard toilet from Home Depot (I don’t know if was a model exclusive to Home Depot). After about a year the toilet kept running. I went to Home Depot to buy a replacement washer. Of course Home Depot doesn’t carry any replacement parts. I went to a plumbing supply, but was informed parts for this specific flush assembly were no longer available (why doesn’t Home Depot know this about products they sell?). As per the plumbing supplies recommendation I contacted American Standard. Apparently the original flush mechanism was poorly designed so they stopped making parts for it. They promptly sent me a reengineered replacement flush assembly free of charge even though the warranty was expired.
So at least in my limited experience with American Standard, they do stand by their products.
Thanks Rich for the input. If there's any interest, I can post pictures after I modify the backhoe.
A picture from the rear of the tractor showing the mounted bracket. The bracket is bolted to the axle, ROP, front loader subframe, fender bracket, and 9 inch plate. Now I need to make some modifications to the backhoe before I can mount it.
Below is the 9 inch plate shown mounted under the tractor. The hydraulic oil plug is still accessible through the hole.
I finally made some progress on the subframe. In case anyone's interested, the included picture shows the parts that make up the portion that attaches to the tractor. The yellow arrows point to pieces that belong to the loader subframe. The only modification I made to the loader subframe was to weld 1/4 inch plate to the sides of tube near the back for reinforcement.
The 2 large brackets are made of 5/8 inch plate. They slip over the axle housing and attach to the tractor at multiple points. I'll show how they attach in a subsequent post. The 9 inch wide plate bolts to these brackets, runs under the tractor and bolts to where the drawbar would normally mount.
I just bought a Cat 2 to Cat 3 lower link pin from here which I will adapt to use on the backhoe subframe I'm building. The thread diameter (1 1/8 inch) is smaller than the pin diameter (1 7/16 inch). Many of the standard lower link pins are larger on the pin side.
Not knowing for sure if my tractor has any “yellow metal” in the transmission I use Super Tech 80w-90 GL-5 from Walmart. On the label it says “protects against rust, foam, high temperature and corrosion of copper or bronze bushings.” Therefore I assume it's yellow metal safe.
Although from what Bob said, it's the zinc that's at risk. Bronze is a somewhat imprecise term. It's is an alloy of copper and tin, however “commercial bronze” does contain zinc. I believe the bronze used in agricultural equipment is “commercial bronze.” Since the label doesn't specifically say brass or zinc, I'm no longer sure if it's safe (if I have brass in my tractor).
Some of the sub frame parts are cut and welded. The hole shown in the picture is suppose to have a 1-1/8 in. diameter.
Due to runout the hole is larger and the pin that will be used to
attach the backhoe fits too loosely. I plan to enlarge the hole and then use a category 3 to 2 lift arm reduction bushing (1-7/16 in. OD and a 1-1/8 in. ID). The reinforcing rings (one on each side of the plate) make the thickness of the steel 1-5/8 in. How much smaller should the diameter of the hole be, as compared to the OD of the bushing, if I install it with a shop press? A three car garage with a full metal working shop and a wood working shop would be the better option. I'll go there when I'm in the doghouse.
