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Maybe my decision was too hasty. I have been thinking about building a CNC router which could double as a CNC plasma cutter. In the mean time I could build a track guide that moves the torch with a variable speed motor so I don't have to worry about holding steady on long cuts. I've accumulated quite the collection of motors (including stepper motors), gears, sprockets, bearing etc. that need to be put to use.
The Lincoln Tomahawk 625 Air Plasma Cutting System recommended by Bob costs about $1,600, more than I was hoping to spend. A Hypertherm Powermax 45 Plasma Cutter costs $1,575.00. Rich, I checked out http://www.longevity-inc.comand they seem reasonable. The Longevity ForceCut 50i is $799.99 and the Longevity ForceCut 50D is $599.99. If they make a decent product maybe I'll go for it. Do you know anything about them?My fortune cookie at dinner tonight said “If you love it do it.” My wife can't argue with a fortune cookie. If it doesn't work out, I'll build a template from wood and have the local welding shop build it as Eric suggested. Again thank you all for your input.
Thanks for the input. It looks like I won't be getting a plasma cutter. I'm sure my wife will be very happy!
I'll post the design once it's done. I'm working with a local welder as I'm not experienced enough to weld 5/8 inch plate. I'm thinking about cutting all the steel myself so I know it all fits before any welding is done. Does anyone have a recommendation for a plasma torch that can cut 5/8 inch mild steel? I'm reluctant to buy something like that from Harbor Freight, even though the reviews are good and some reviewers claim they can cut 3/4 inch steel.
Thanks Bob for your input. The pump, gear case & black bracket came assembled from factory. I attached the bracket to the tractor. The holes would only line up with the pump orientation as shown in the picture. I made the erroneous assumption that the factory would assemble parts properly. Evidently that's not the case as I found other parts assembled improperly. When I first got the tractor the oil pressure was very low. The gasket between the engine and the oil filter assembly was backwards. Go figure.
I have about 80 hours on the tractor. I never checked the oil in the gear box. The manual that came with backhoe didn’t say anything about checking or changing the oil. Is that something I should do, and if so what kind of oil should I use? Do I turn the pump so the plug is facing up and fill it to the top? The only plug I can find is the one you can see in the picture on the left side of the gear box.
Jeff,
Although I don't have a Jinma tractor, I found this Jinma manual to be helpful as my tractor is very similar:
http://www.buyjinmasdirect.cit…..lJohn..pdf
It's written in English rather than “Chinglish”
Thanks for the advise guys. I'll pass on the ANFO, my neighbors already think I make too much noise, of course that is until they want to borrow the tractor.
If a post hole digger can go through such a hard caliche, can a 2 inch auger drill through a stump? Last year, after a bad storm, I had whole lot trees cut down (with a really cool feller buncher). In fact I’m still moving the mulch around with my tractor. I have a small stump grinder, but it takes forever to grind the larger stumps. I was thinking about making a drill using an old wash machine gearbox and an engine from a weed wacker. If I use a 1 inch auger I could drill holes in the stumps to make the grinding easier or use the holes to pour in a “stump killer.” However, if I could use a post hole digger, it would be a lot easier, plus it would be a good excuse to buy a post hole digger (the wife already ruled out a feller buncher!).
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