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Thanks for ideas. Yes I need to split the tractor and get those loose bolts fixed. I don’t plan on runnig it much until I get that done. The electrical fuse setup is a real joke. I want to change the mount, but so afraid if I start moving it around the wires will start breaking. These tractor are never ending maintenance and repair. Since I had it I completely re-worked the hydraulics on the LW-7, New seals and a cylinder on the Z-20 FEL, new up graded control w/hoses for the FEL, several hydraulic hoses, part of the exhaust, new starter, new raditor hoses, fuel line to the injectors, oil sending unit, new rubber boots on the shifters, new electrical rocker switches, aftermarket gauges. The clutch & Pressure plate still do not slip, which is good. Next projects, split the tractor to fix leak, rebuild L-7 BH cylinders, also have a gear oil leak in the right rear wheel seal which is leaking into the brake box, and adjust lifters. Oh and I while I was putting in new gauges the bracket for the seat broke (very thin meatal) will fab a new one. I must say that I could not have got all the work done at my place without it and still a lot more use for it. Lucky that I have welders, torches, mill, lathe, drill press and a plethora of power and hand tools. But the most important tool I have is access to the CTOA and fellow machine owners that provide help and advice!
Well I finally got the Gauges installed. Took a while to get the correct wire for the ampmeter, but it works. I also put an additional mechanical oil pressure gauge in. Since I was working on the dash and wireing, I put a volt meter in and a 12volt socket plug in in case I needed a power source. I also re-did all my rocker electrical switches and a put new starter in. The horn now works with a button on the steering wheel and rocker switch. I changed all the filters and put new gear oil, engine oil, and hydraulic oil for the FEL & BH.
Next project is to adjust the valves.
Then a major project of spliting the tractor to fix a oil leak from bolts that didn’t have lock-tight from the factory (not until the summer).
Thanks for all the advice and help!!! I couldn’t keep my tractor running without this website.
Piper
Thanks much! Will follow your instructions. After I get everything done I’ll update and send pictures.
Len
David & Piper
Thanks for the quick responses. I was looking at several Amp gauges and some of the instruction have the wiring connected with a “Shunt”. I guess I’ll try to find the wire to the “Idiot” light on my panel a connect it there. Basically I just have to put the gauge between the power input and my Key Ignition? I can wire a house, but never really wired a vehicle except to replace exsisting wires (that the darn squirrels chewed up).
I am also in the process of putting a mechanical & electric oil gauga and a digital volt meter in my dash. I figured I would also install a Amp gauge to see excatly what my alternator is putting out or the power drain. I also want to change out my current lights to LED and add big LED light bars to the top of my roof front & back in case I have to use the FEL or BH at night.
Another thing: Is the horn the round metal disk attached to the fuse bar located on top of the engine valve cover? If it isn’t the horn what is it and where is the horn located? I have a “Horn” switch on my dash with all the other light switches and also a button for the horn on the steering wheel. I checked the power to both and they have power, but no horn noise with engaged. Hasn’t worked since the tractor was new.
Thanks again
Len
Hey David hope all is well in Sourhern, TN. I ordered a mechanical guage, probably have to get some extra fittings to adapt it. I just took of the sending unit and did a “Crank” on the engine for a split second and oil shot out about six feet. Must be a bad sending unit. Probablyplumb in a “T” and put a new electrical sending unit so I can see on the dash and instal the mechnical guage next to it.
Thanks much
Len
Already checked for “Idiot” light. My 354, when you turn on the key has “Battery” and “ON” red lights only. New oil filter and oil. My sending unit looks like 3/8″, but have to take off to see. I ordered a mechnical guage kit. Hopefully there will be NPT threads on mine. If I took off the sending unit and cranked the engine oil with out starting -should shoot out of the hole? At least I would know the pump was working. Then connect the guage to see if pressure builds up. I do get pressure when I star it up then it goes low and when i rev up to 2k the needle moves so I know there is oil circulation, just don’t know how much if the guage is faulty. I was going to chage out 10 years ago, but wasn’t a priority at the time. I also need rubber shifting boots for Hi-Lo Range Shifter and Gear Shifter. Trying to find aftermarket 0nes. These Jinma Chinese rubber anything disinagrates after a year or two,
Been using my tractor for helping out my neighbors and wearing it out probably 30% my property.to 70% free work. I am fixing it up now and wil stayin my yard. Never got a dime or reciperal help with my work for all the work I gave out. Some people just thjink you have a tractor, FEL, and backhoe and it runs on air and doesn’t cost anything to run. they especially don’t pay and don’t do any maintenance. Time to cut them off. My machine will be broke down foreve unless I have a project. I’ll let you know how the new guage works out.
Thanks much Len
No “Idiot” light that I know of. I will have to see what size threads are on the exsisting electrical sending unit to change to a mechnical. I also been going through about a thousand posts on the CTOA and there is a mention of a “Pressure Releife Valve” in the filter head being stuck open. Don’t know what that is.
Thanks much
Len
I found my “BOX” of Jinma Tractor papers and information. The lift capacity for the ZL-30 is 875 lbs at full height and 2,200 lbs Breakaway. I rebuilt the lifting cylinders a few years ago with USA custom made seals from Hercules Seals in FL. and new tilt cylinders from Affordable Tractor. The hydraulic pump is strong (for now) and I use Multi Viscosity AW-30-46-68 oil that I am in the process of new oil change on the the whole tractor and backhoe. I know the I have good lift because I tried to pull out some schrubs at my neighbor’s and didn’t get all the roots cut. When I tried pulling them up with the FEL the schrub stayed in place and the entire back end wheels and backhoe lifted off the ground. Scared the hell out of me.
David thanks much. I do have a LW-7 Backhoe attached for a counter weight. I did see a spec sheet on the ZL30, but can’t find it again. I believe it stated 1370lbs and 2,000lbs Breakaway – just wanted to make sure from other sources. I called a dealer and he said that it’s rated at 1,400. “I hope so” I have a 1,300lb crated Lathe being delivered and need to carry it to the side of my house to put in my shop.
