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Great information. The ground is “Grass”, I did adjust the brakes up, but they aere not the best on these tractors. My low gears 1st & Reverse are dead slow and I will have it in 4×4. Not sure if I will remove the bucket yet. I’ll know better when they deliver the crate by frieght this afternoon. I am just going to put in in my garage for now until I get additional help. Will rig with 8,000 lb straps + I have chains also. Will have help holding ropes on the sides to prevent “spinning”. I was planing on going down backwards to keep the load up hill and better ballanced. I did think about keeping the backhoe live, a little extended off the ground and the out riggers out. When you say 9 degree slope doesn’t sound like much, but then try to take a load on it. All good input from you. Wanted to pick other peoples brains before I start. I know I have had my share of real close mishaps with tractors on slopes and even on level. Can’t afford any mishaps with this more. High $s at stake.
Thanks again for your quick response and info.
Len
Bob:
Happy New Year! It’s been quite some time since I have been on ths site due to not working much with my tractor. I had a sever spinal cord injury and the surgery made it worse, but thank God I am getting better and trying to start a at home Cerakoting & Gunsmithing business. Got to keep moving. I am sure that anyone that buys your dozer will be getting a GREAT deal and dozer. I know how you maintain your equipment. I thank you for all the good information that you provided me and the rest of the group. Take care Len.
Good afternoon all and thanks for the replies.
I started working on my tractor today. Had some issues with the gauges and light switches not working all the time. I found that “Mud Dobber Wasps” had gotten at tractor and filled up every hole with mud & larvae. Even the smallest holes in the electrical connectors were filled. I took the fuse box apart, pulled the fuses (replaced with all new), cleaned the contacts on the regulator, cleaned all the mud out and cleaned all the male and female connections with electrical cleaner, took the gauges and switches out. When I got done the light switches were still sticking so I called Tommy over at Affordable and ordered a new bank of switches. While I was talking with Tommy about my alternator he said it may be the regulator and not the alternator. He said the contacts come loose on the regulator or it just goes bad. I told him about my problem with the mud dobbers and that I cleaned all the contacts, he said it may have cleared up the problem with the alternator. I went out and checked the alternator again and was getting 13.5 to 13.8 volts and when I disconnected the battery (while running) the alternator out put was 14 volts. Tommy said the alt and regulator are fine with that amount of volts. My battery light is still on and Tommy stated that that is a problem even with new tractors. So I guess for now I won’t be putting a new alternator on, but will be putting a voltmeter in.
I do want to look into getting new brighter LED lights to mount on the front and back of my roof so I can see while working at night.
My next two projects will be to split the tractor to fix a oil leak and pull the rear wheel off and fix a oil seal leak there…been wanting to do that for 3 or 4 years now.Thanks again for all the help.
Len
Semper FiI did a search on this site and found many different posts on replacing the alternator which has be a little more confused. The alternator on my 354 has (4) wires and I think a volt regulator. I read that other owners have replaced with (1) wire, higher amp rating, and had to replace with upgraded wiring. I want to do this right the first time. I would like more amps to run extra lights. What we be best? a higher amp (how much), internal regulator, change the alt light with a volt/amp meter, do I need to change the key switch, how many wire alternator 1, 3, 4? any other advise?
Thanks
LenDave:
I usually travel up that we every couple of weeks for business or hunting coyotes in Tunnel Hill, GA. If I make it up that way anytime soon I may stop by. What brand battery, cranking amps, and how old is it?
Thanks
LenBo
Semper FiDave
In the prestigious town of Social Circle – east of Atlanta half way between Augusta. I live in the country, but we do have (1) traffic light (red, yellow, green lights – when working) in downtown on the famous crossroad of the Hightower trail. It is amazing how the times are progressing.LenBo
Semper FiThe ZL30 has a cross member on the frame that prevents the hood to open more than a few inches when the loader is in the down position. Whenever I work on the engine I have to park the tractor next to tree, raise the bucket all the way, put it against the tree and chain it for safety so it doesn’t come down on me while working. It is a real poor design. To jump start or put a charger on it I release the latch, but the only gives me an inch or two. Then try to strain may arm and hand to hook up the terminals. I’ll use your method of hooking to the starter next time. If the tractor ever does not start I would probably have to remove the FEL to get access to the motor. I was just checking if other 354 owners have the same issue wit the ZL30 loader.
LenBo
Semper FiJust an update. Is there any workaround with opening the hood/engine cover if you can’t start the tractor? I have a JM 354 with a ZL30 FEL and unless the bucket is raised all the way up you can’t open the engine cover. If my battery is dead I can wiggle the jumper cables in to get it started, but if there was an engine issue and could not start would I have to take the FEL off to open the hood?
Thanks
LenBo
Semper Fi
