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The first day I used my 354 I was clearing some brush for a food plot and the bucket on the FEL broke right off. I couldn’t believe it- the bucket just broke right off. I was lucky to have some chain to tie the bucket back on to get back to my house. The weld was less 1/16” around the brackets. I didn’t think I was going to be a welder again since leaving General Dynamics Electric Boat Division in 1989. I had every certification for welding on any part/metal of a Nuclear Sub. Now that I got this tractor I have another hobby of welding. I have welded brackets, fittings to the sump tank, lines to the cylinders, and brazed fittings on the lines in my BH.
The Chinese welding process and QC is the worst I have ever seen. If you are going to have one of these tractors it pays to be a welder and have the equipment or know someone who does.
Thanks
Just another on of my many projects to complete. I'll get the glow plug and de- compression lever issue fixed before it gets cold again so I have some time. I have an inside painting project ready to go (great room, hall ways, kitchen, master bed & bath). I hate painting, but I just ordered 500' of 5 rail wood fence material and need to take the BH off and install the 3 point post hole 9″ auger on. I'll enjoy doing that.
Thanks again for everyone's help
Len
Ron J
Good instructions – Thanks!
My tractor did not come equipped with an ammeter so I don’t know how much battery drain I have with the glow plugs engaged. Another project – install an ammeter.
I tried to use the decompression lever and something must not be working. I turned the lever all the way clockwise and “touched” the key to start and the engine fired right up. I thought that with the decompression lever engaged the engine should not start. I pulled the valve cover off to see if the linkage was OK and it was. Put back together and same results. If I engage while running there is no difference in the engine. Isn’t the lever supposed to hold the exhaust valves “open” when engaged? I took the oil cap off the valve cover and you can see the rod with the pins that hold the valves open turn when the lever is moved clockwise. Maybe the pins on that rod need to be adjusted to hold the exhaust valves open? I would like to get this functioning properly. Any ideas?
Thanks
Len
Bert:
Let me know if you have any additional questions when you start this project. I am glad that I don't need a snow blower, if we get a couple of inches everything shuts down here. I have fully stocked food/water source (bar) so we just stay home and make it a party untill the snow melts off the road.
Thanks
Len
Bob:
Thank you for all you help. I am sure that I may be in need of your and other member's knowledge to fix or modify my machine. I hope this project could help out other members with the same problem on a LW-7 BH.
I got to get some rest tonight. Will be turkey hunting in the morning and then removing the BH and hooking my new 3 point post hole digger to start on another 500' of 5 rail fence.
Len
Tin:
I thought that also, but I have held it in the “H” position in freezing temps and still had a hard start, just like if I didn't hold it there for 20 seconds. Maybe I am expecting too much?
Thanks
Len
Jack
It has (5) positions. There is an “Off” position, turn to left and “ST” for start to crank engine, but the gauges and hour meter do not work it springs back to the “OFF” in this position. Then you can turn it to the right to “ST” where the key cranks the engine after starting springs back to “ON” and the electrical gauges work. There is also a “H” between the “ON and “ST”, but is spring loaded, key will not stay there.
Thanks
Len
Jack:
I figured it was something like that. I live in Georgia and it does get cold here in the winter. It is in the 40s in the AM and the 70s later in the day at this time. My tractor starts well ( a few seconds in the morning and as soon as you touch the key in the afternoon), but when it is real cold below 32, it cranks for 10-15-20 seconds. I guess I try the decompression lever then.
Thanks
Len
Bob:
First of all thank you for inspiring me to make this modification.
If I didn’t do this and it didn’t work I would be looking for a new BH. I did remove the in-tank suction filter when making the modification.Prince Pump’s calls for a 150 micron suction filter for their pumps, but does not list the GPM flow rate on the suction filters. When I was researching parts for this project I went to Surplus Center and the only filters they have are a 10 micron return filter and a 25 micron suction filter in different GPM.
In my previous posts when I installed the new Prince pump with the factory suction & output lines, I had problems with the flow rate. The Prince PTO 7A pump calls for ½” output and 1” suction line. I decided to go with a bigger diameter ¾” output line and a 1 ¼” suction line with a ZINGA Suction Filter:
25 GPM SUCTION LINE FILTER
New ZINGA. Spin-on type element. Ports 1 1/4″ NPT.SPECIFICATIONS
- Suction Line Applications 25 Micron
- 25 GPM
- 5 PSI bypass
- 950 sq in filter area
- 5 1/3″ dia x 9 1/3″ long
This is a real big filter.
My pump is rated at 7 GPM and this suction filter is rated at 25 GPM so I did not think there will be any problems with the flow rate. Before I did this modification I drained and flushed the entire system along with pressure washing the inside of the sump tank and then filling up with NAPA AW-32.
I ran my BH, as hard as I could, for over six hours one day and two hours today digging out stumps and the BH works GREAT. I think digging out stumps is the hardest workout for a BH. The suction filter gauge reads in the “Green” between “0” and “1” lb vacuum while at idle as well as under load. I think it will be a long time before I ever need to change out this filter. See the picture – BH was running and the needle is between “0” and “1” lb.
This BH really operates GREAT now. Plenty of power and good control response.
Thanks again to all responding to this post for providing me with information and ideas for this modification.
Len
