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Thought maybe you could list the parts here for everyone to see what would be needed if this happened to them.
Okay, looked at the diagram closer. I see the bolt is to hold the selector plate down. Looks like I have all the parts. When I did try to reassemble everything like the diagram, the spring and washer kept popping through the selector plate. Any ideas?
Yes, exactly. Thank you. Looks like I'm missing part #21 and #15. Is #15 a bolt? If it is, I'm not sure I see how is bolts in to anything.
I'll have to drain the oil from the box and see if they are sitting at the bottom.
Are these parts I can get at a local tractor supply or would I need to order them?
hey quicksandfarmer, can you give the whole link to the detailed instructions on splitting the tractor? only part of it came through: http://www.tractorbynet.com/fo…..low-2.html
Thanks
Tommy,
Just looked at the engine sump pan on your parts page. The part number matches what I have in my yangdong parts catalogue and it looks just like the one on my tractor. Is this the “newer 2- piece sump with a bottom cover” you refer to above? If so, I will have a great big smile on my face if I can buy this part and change it out myself.
Do you have the gaskets and bolts to go along with it? I might as well replace all of them with new, right?
And would you have the bolt torque specs?
Thanks a lot,
lobbster
Okay, I got under the tractor and took some pics. According to the Yangdong Co. Y385T Diesel Engine Parts Catalogue the crack is in the Oil Sump and not the Oil Sump Motherboard.
There are 15 bolts holding the Oil Sump to the Engine Body and 20 bolts holding the Oil Sump Motherboard to the Oil Sump.
Looks like there's a gasket between the Oil Sump and the Flywheel Housing. Can't see where there are bolts holding these together. Are they indside the Flywheel Housing? Is this why I would need to split the tractor?
Tommy, do you have a gestimate for price on this part?
Thanks guys
lobbster
Thanks for all the replies/input. I’ve been so busy I haven’t had time to get under the tractor and have closer look. I did add about a quart of oil and use it for about an hour. Didn’t lose too much. But now that it’s been sitting for awhile, I’m sure a lot more has leaked out. I’m gonna try and get under it today and take some pics. I hope what you’re saying is true Bob and I can just replace the motherboard. Maybe there is a silver lining…
lobbster
Wow! Thank you all for the advice.
I have always been happy with the work my mechanic has done, but now, after the comment by quicksandfarmer, I'm getting suspicious about why this happened. He did have to make a gasket when he rebuilt the engine because the one that was ordered didn't fit properly (the one for the oil pan). And now wondering if he didn't torque the bolts properly.
When he was looking at it, he commented that he'd never seen this before and explained about how much pressure is put on this part of the tractor (this is where my loader is bolted onto the tractor).
Do you think I should call him on it and question whether or not he did the rebuild properly? Any advice on the best way to approach the subject without being accusatory? I really like the guy and he's done a lot of good work for me. But I can't afford another major repair right now.
In the meantime, I think I'll try the putty-type weld. It's leaking, but not all the oil. I have just been checking and adding about a quart or less before the last few times I've used it. If the putty doesn't work, then I might consider breaking it in half and relplacing the pan with a new one.
But it is planting season and there is still a lot of work to get done before I can take the China Girl out of commission.
Thanks Again!
I am now having the same starter problem. I also have the jinma 284 and replaced the starter/solenoid last year. I started the tractor today a couple of times. I parked in front of my shop to do a couple things and when I came back out to start the tractor again…click, click, nothing. I thought maybe I blew a fuse, but all were fine. I tried to cross the poles on the solenoid and still nothing. I then brought my truck over and connected the positive right to the solenoid pole and the neg to the tractor body. This time it turned over once or twice and then started clicking. I tried crossing the poles again and got the engine to turn over maybe once.
I also don't want to abuse the solenoid. Could this be another started going bad? Is there a way to test the starter, maybe take it out and get it to turn over using battery jump cables?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
