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Maybe I have missed it, but you didn't mention what type of pressure gauge you are using. Is it mechanical or electrical?
The reason I ask is the swings in pressure you are getting don't make sense!
I suspect you are using the electrical gauge on the tractor and not a mechanical gauge. I would suspect that the pressure transducer is failing and giving erratic readings.
I would install a mechanical gauge so that you are certain of the pressures you are getting. You can use both and then you will have a good comparison for the future.
My point is, don't trust the pressure transducer in the electrical gauge only – they are known to fail frequently.
Just my $0.02, but might be worth checking into. If you did the rebuild properly and all temperatures are normal, with no increase in engine oil level, there should be no reason for drastic pressure changes.
Thanks
You can get used to anything.
When I first used my TPH rear snow blower, I thought it would be really bad and awkward. It really isn't all that bad and I find I sit almost sideways on the seat, which allows easy control in both the front and rear. Once you get used to the blower, you will find a speed that works best and use it for most of the time. I have two speeds I use in reverse – one slightly faster than the other.
I have 1/4 mile long driveway and about 300 yds to and from my workshop – so about 750 yards or 2250 ft of blowing driveways. Also I keep and area in front of the house clear to turn my vehicles around in – about 560ft x 60 ft.
If the snow is half decent (8″-12″) it takes me a couple of hours or so. Even of the snow plows have blocked in the driveway entrance, it doesn't take too much longer.
My only regret is that I don't have a bigger blower – 84 ” would be perfect for me. My current one is 73″ with two wings added making it around 80″.
It sounds like you have some bacteria in your diesel fuel tank and the diesel is moving it around your system.
Best to do what Bob Rooks said – pump out the contaminated fuel into another container. Change your fuel filters again and then put some biocide in the empty fuel tank – a very big dose, possibly twice the recommended treatment. Add known clean fuel and then run the engine to get the clean and treated fuel through the system. You will probably find that you will need to change the fuel filter (s) two or three times before it all cleans up properly.
It is common to find bacteria at the fuel/water interface, so draining water off the fuel filter regularly is a must. Once the little buggers get going it is a lot of work to get rid of them sometimes. If you have the truck back up and running, you are halfway there already.
Cheers
mariner
As previously stated, check for codes on your truck. Not sure for your year, but on my 02 you turn the ignition key on and off three times quickly and any codes will show up on the speedo gauge. At least that will be a starting point. Since you have the common rail system, there are a number of electronic “gizmo's” (sensors) involved and the first thing to check and do would be change the fuel filter. That way you know your filter is good and clean and that there would be no water in the housing. Maybe try some fuel treatment too, that might be all that is needed. It is too easy to get a batch of bad fuel. Keeping to the KISS principle first – fuel pumps, qualified mechanics, injection pumps and injectors cost big money. It might be something as a batch of bad diesel causing the problems, along with a dirty filter – they can get real dirty in just a few minutes with contaminated fuel.
Good luck and let us know how you made out.
Cheers
mariner
A good quality hydraulic oil should be what you need. These Jinma steering systems are straight hydraulic – using a hydraulic cylinder rod movement to turn a steering knuckle and hence front wheels.
Depending on where you are would influence the oil choice. I live in an area that frequently gets -30 F temperatures in the winter. For me the hydraulic oil I use is AW32 – the AW46 is too thick at these temperatures. There is a noticeable difference between the two oils at start up operation.
HTH
mariner
Hi guys,
An update to my situation re parts cost and UPS.
I was left a message yesterday, on my answering machine that said I would now have to pay another $93.77 before my package would be released – no mention of delivery here. Hhhhhm – I smell another rat – what about taxes and duty ????
Something tells me that there are going to be more costs associated with this yet.
Again, amyone who is thinking of shippng UPS – DON'T. My experiences are that nothing will be said up front about “extra costs” and once the shipping company has your parts, they will hold you ransom for the extra money by refusing delivery until these extra charges are paid.
Again, I cannot warn you folks enough – DON'T USE UPS UNLESS YOU LIKE PAYING FAR TOO MUCH.
Oh, I didn't mention that it is nearly five weeks now and still no parts – on what I was told would be a seven delivery !!!!
Gotta check with the credit card company on this re stop payment !!
More to come later !
Thx
mariner
Hi guys,
I have just got to comment on the spare parts issues.
I have recently had to buy again, a new steering knuckle for my 2007 Jinma 554 tractor. I do everything I can to monitor and adjust to prevent breakages – but ……, maybe I'm just unlucky.
Anyhow, I recently (June 2nd 2011) placed an order with one of the tractor parts suppliers who advertize on this forum. I had used them before three years ago and was happy with the service and prices then. This time it is a totally different story !!!
I ordered four items that were sent with UPS – parts supplier recommend that I use them. I live in Canada and the distance thing for delivery, becomes a bit of a problem. I was assured that if I used UPS the delivery time would be just a week.
Well, waddaya know, that was complete hogwash ! The parts total was $280.00, the shipping and UPS charges were $83.51 for a total of $363.51.
After the first week went by I contacted the shipper and ask where is my order ? They replied that there must have been a routing error and that my order was in Washington state en route to Canada. Hhhhhhm – one week delivery time guarantee eh !
With my previous experience of UPS I decided to look again for parts, but this time in Canada. I found a company in Ontario and dealt with them. They had to order the steering knuckle that I needed, direct from China. The part was sent to Ontario by air frieght from China. My order was then put together (they had the rest of the parts in stock) and shipped it to me by Canada Post. From first making the order to my receiving it in BC, took only two weeks ! Imagine parts from China to Ontario, then Ontario to BC to me – two weeks ! Not bad I'm very impressed.
After two weeks waiting for the first order and no contact from either the tractor parts dealer or UPS, I shoot off another email to enquire on the status of my order. Reply said the order was in Canada and en route.
Now, as of this morning, 3rd July 2011, I have heard nothing further from the parts supplier in the US or from UPS – the so called courier service. So, I am about to call the credit card company and put a “stop payment” on the first order – since I haven't received the good I ordered. I will then proceed to send a real “factual letter” to both UPS and the parts supplier, laying out clearly, why I will never, ever be doing business with them again, in my life time. And, of course, when the time is right, use the internet to document why.
Incidently, the second order placed with the Canadian company, for the same parts cost me just under $200 Canadian – including shipping and taxes etc. That is freeking $163.51 cheaper than the original order. And, I have the parts installed already, on the tractor.
I am keeping quiet for the time being, about the name of the company who pushed UPS as the service to use ! When this mess finally gets sorted out, then I will be happy to let you guys know who not to do business with. It is not Ranch Hand or Affordable – so Tommy and Ronald have no worries.
However, since I was/would be held to randsom over the parts issue, I will be making every effort to create a real “stink” about what has transpired. Both the parts seller and UPS have a lot to answer for regarding their services – including the complete lack of customer service. I have been left high and dry and of course neither of the two companies have bothered to follow through on customer enquiries.
Just thought I would mentioned my experiences to date – and yes, my order is still not delivered. I have purchased quite a bit of stuff over the years (generally that is) and have never ever experienced this sort of service before. Excluding the parts supplier for now, I would recommend that who ever purchases partsout of state – NEVER USE UPS. THEIR SERVICE IS NON EXISTANT AND THEIR COSTS ARE HORRENDOUS.
Thanks – I feel a lot better for having got that off my chest.
I will update later when everything finally gets sorted out.
Cheers
mariner
Hi Larry,
Check out this website – they have a For Sale section and there are a couple of contact telephone numbers. One call might just be all you need. Several calls to different places might just get you another distributor or new rotors – worth a shot.
https://hallscottengines.com/Home_Page.html
HTH – let us know how ya made out !
mariner
Homerj,
You are doing a reat job and the writeup will be a great help to the rest of the members on this site. I head similar ex[eriences a few years ago, but not on my tractor.
A few years ago I rebuilt the engine in a JD450 – was a four cylinder too. That engine had cylinder liners leaking mainly around where the “O” ring but the was also ample evidence of cavitation. On two liners the outside looked like honeycomb with all the small cavitations.
All liners pistons bearings etc were renewed – however the amoount of sludge build up in the cylnder block around where the liners are situated, was very considerable. I know I spent hours cleaning out the whole thing as best I could ( I had the block off and on a wooden pallet which allowed good access ) and don't regret spending the time doing it. In my case even the radiator had a large amount of sludge in the bottom of it and that too, good a real good cleaning.
As others have said, the more care taken now will ensure a much better and complete final job.
Good luck with the work and thanks for posting your progress.
mariner
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