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My dozer is the older version that only has a 4 way blade. but I will check at circle tractor and see what they have,
thanks
MarkI had another thought, is it possible to replace the male ends on the hydraulic rams with Standard fittings?
One other question, the hydraulic hoses that tilt the blade left and right came apart and they are metric, the local people say they don’t have metric fitting — any idea where I could get the correct hoses.
One other question, how do I remove the old primer?
thanks, I am picking up that electric pump in a few minutes and we will hook it up — are there any tricks to hooking up the pump?
I would like to get another one in next week — I need to start it and get it down to my new ranch in nevada :bye:
Ok, so I will clear up the mystery, When I got the new seals I confirmed that the side of the seal I was seeing from the “clutch housing side” was in fact the back of the seal. So I took a chance and removed it and replaced it. Good thing because that was where the oil was coming from. the space between the two seals was full of oil.
So I got it back together and was very excited to get out and see if it worked, since I am heading for India today, yesterday was my last chance to try it for a few weeks).
One of the tracks was sagging way beyond specs — but since I was only going to “test it” for a couple of hours, AND in my move I lost my big wrench and cheater bar for adjusting the tracks — I thought what can happen!!
Well to save suspense what can happen is when the tracks are loose rocks can feed into the track/drive sprocket to the point that it snaps one of the track segments
So next I learn how to replace track segments — on a side hill, in relatively loose dirt. I am hoping Farmboys has track segments I can buy,
But the good new is my steering clutch worked GREAT, i ran it for an hour and it started to slip again, So I had to adjust the steering clutch linkage again, I assume that because the plates were new the had to “seat” themselves
thanks again for all your assistance!!
thank you very much, I will give it a try. two other questions;
1. how is the best way to remove those seals, the only way I know how is to take a flat screwdriver where the seal is seated and “drive” it in deforming the seal enough to reduce the pressure on the seat so I can pull it out.
2. assuming that is the best way to remove seals can do you think I can do that with the driveshaft in?
thanks again for all the help!
Ok, I think I am getting to the end, except I still haven't been able to figure out how to get the old seals from around the drive shaft, I have the ones around the brake drum.
I am only repairing one side, so I haven't taken the other side apart. there is a part named the central driveshaft bearing base which is a machined part and seems to be pressed into the cast iron transmission housing. I can't seem to get the oil seals out with that bearing base in — but I have no idea how I would get that out, especially with the driveshaft still in.
attached is the diagram and parts list from the manual. I'm hoping someone is a lot smarter than me.
