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Thanks for your help, as I said I'm sort of a shade tree mechanic, so I am not sure what you mean by this:
As far as torquing specs, just use the standard metric guide for the correct property class fastener.
In the “manuals” I have it doesn't have torque specs for the bolts — are you saying that each bolt type has a standard torque spec?
thanks
Mark
I have the 2 cylinder engine, and I have the parts manuals, I called Tim at farm boy and got the seals, clutch plates and brake bands on order. They should arrive on friday.
my plan is to take all of the parts I'm not replacing into a friend of mine who will run them thru his de-greaser. the inner and outer steering clutch drums I am planning on doing my best to get the oil off of them.
I am hoping that when I see the seals it will be obvious how to get the old ones out and the new ones in.
Is there any trick to installing the clutch plates? is there any torquing requirements?
actually it has a threaded drain hole, there just isn't a drain plug in it so I will put one in,
Yes I will replace the brake bands, they aren't really worn just saturated with oil.
the clutch disks are riveted, but I assumed I should just buy new clutch disks, should I consider re-lining them?
I am a “shade tree” mechanic (on my best days) and I haven't been able to figure out how to replace the seal between the transmission and steering clutch — here is a pic, any ideas?
One other question (for now), do I need to remove the brake drum in order to get the brake band out and back in — it doesn't seem to want to “flex” enough, do I just manhandle it out? I was trying to remove the brake drum to clean it — but it has a strange nut and I can't seem to get it loose.
One last question about fluids — what oil should I use for;
Engine — currently I use 5-30 motor oil
hydraulics — can I use UTF or do I need Hydraulic oil
transmission — ??
final transmission — Currently I use 80 weight gear oil?
Thanks!
Ok I solved the problem, I couldn't find a new pump so I ended up cleaning up the pump parts with my dremel. Then I wrapped the pushrod with pipe tape and then put epoxy on the piston to recreate the socket that held the push rod in place.
Then I cleaned up up, reassembled it, and i worked like a champ.
Thanks for all your help.
Once I got the piston out and looked at it the corrosion was on top of the piston, so it seem to me that the corrosion was from the fact that in 18 years it has never been used. because down where the fuel could have come in contact with the piston it was good.
Once I got the piston out and looked at it the corrosion was on top of the piston, so it seem to me that the corrosion was from the fact that in 18 years it has never been used. because down where the fuel could have come in contact with the piston it was good.
just to update you all, I took of the primer pump, taking care to clean the area with degreaser. Apparantly this priming pump has never worked. The plunger was so seized in the barrel I had to us a punch to get it out, and after soaking all the parts in degreaser for an hour the plunger still will not go into the barrel unless i tap it in with the hammer.
Also socket fitting where the push rod fits into the plunger appears to have been machined poorly — so it won't hold the push rod. so I would say this primer is out for the count.
does anyone know where I might buy a replacement primer.
Also, going back to my original problem does anyone have suggestions as to how I can bleed the air without the primer?
That is the weird thing, assuming it was the priming pump I started to loosen it, and I thought at some point it would either “pop up” under the tension of the spring, or it would stop turning.
But what happened was I unscrewed it to the point that the spring tension literally pushed the rod out of the barrel.
So after what I have read, I wonder if it was ever assembled correctly?
thank you all for you help, I will give it another try
I was going to replace the fuel filter when I did the spring maintenance, but the filter I got from the previous owner is the wrong one, and I can't figure out a NAPA equivalent, any ideas?
I did scrub of the dirt from the shaft before it came out. so I'm hoping I didn't get junk it it — I don't think I did.
I assumed the spring loaded part on this was the priming pump
but this is what it looks like, so I don’t think it is:
any ideas?
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