Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hi, also you can install a pressure gauge on the block next to the
shuttle clutch valve. Max. operating pressure of 40 psi for shuttle clutch.
Gauge can be used for troubleshooting. I used a Rainbird gauge from a hardware store and tapped the block to install. I hope you are not having the same problems I had, it sound like you are. On these shuttle clutch's there is an internally splined gear into which the top #1 transmission shaft fits into. The splined gear and transmission shaft can get stripped, giving these same symptoms you are having. I pulled out my internally splined shuttle clutch shaft and #1 transmission shaft and fixed them. I carefully removed existing splines in the shuttle clutch
part and welded in a new splined (PTO coupler) part from Tractor Supply Co. Then I took the transmission shaft and built up the splines with hard facing rod, and then cut the splines to fit. The early dozers with shuttle clutch were not built very good.
Hi, the instructions are not clear. I back up a little hill and then go down the hill in neutral and “feel” my brake action and adjust as necessary, this also for turning, except I am in gear. This technique works for me to get equal braking and turning action.
My splined section failed because the new coupler was not centered correctly. Have used a section of PTO coupler from Tractor Supply and welded it inside of old coupler. Built up shaft splines of partly stripped
transmission shaft #1 with hard facing and cut splines to fit inside
PTO coupler.
Pull the shift lever plate off the transmission. Look. The end of the shift
levers ride in a groove at the top of the shift lever forks that ride
on parallel, from front to back rods. Now if you are talking about the shuttle shift, that is an entirely different thing.
Hi, I am Al Lamore and have quite extensive experience with this style of dozer/front loader. If you think it's the Bull Gear or ring gear, take the seat off, remove the top cover from the transmission and pull it to the side. I had a bevel and ring gear that went out. I replaced the bevel gear shaft and the ring gear. Used white substance that mechanics use
to get the proper spacing pattern print as in the manual.
I wrote a repair manual on this. Had to remove the tracks, pull
the two final drives, etc. Never had a problems after fixing it. You will
also see the steering clutch packs when you pull these two final drives off. Take pictures of everything, like I did, so it gets put back together right. I have been into every part of this machine including the shuttle clutch, motor, transmission shaft replacements, motor, etc. I have figured out how to improve the defects of the shuttle clutch, to rebuild drive splines, etc.
Hi, I finally figured out how to repair the older dozer shuttle clutch.
I found various design flaws with this clutch. The front hydraulic fluid
distribution block of the main shuttle clutch shaft with clutch packs, was supposed to have four holes instead of 2, with attached guide screws and springs. I fixed this by adding two more holes to keep the distribution block, with internal bronze bearings from skewing.
Another problem was the internal splines of the final drive cylinder were too small, not correctly cut, thus stripping out along with the external splines of the #1 transmission drive shaft. To fix this I obtained from tractor supply co. PTO adapter parts. Using the internal splined part cut from the adapter, I placed it inside the final drive cylinder, making new, bigger splines of better material. The #1 transmission shaft that goes inside this female piece, was built up using hard facing rod at about 150 amps with a conventional 220 volt supplied welder. The new wider splines were fitted to the female piece, making a much stronger connection.
I also found a problem with the forward shuttle clutch shaft external splines. There were burrs on it that caused the forward clutch shaft to jam. Sanding them off to fit did the trick. I use air pressure to check the operation of the finally assembled clutch packs on the main shuttle clutch shaft. I have perfection.
Another related problem was the internal splines of the plate that attaches to the engine. Replaced defective smaller splining with PTO
internal splining.
Al Lamore
Hi, drive at end of shuttle clutch is stripped out.
This is exactly what happened to me. Could not get a new internal
splined section so had to get a newer internal splined section, cut it
in half and take the good half and have it Tig welded to the the new internal splined section. It worked. A machine shop did this for me.
Otherwise all you have is a big piece of scrap metal.
This is because the older style bell for the shuttle clutch does not
have the same number of engagement splines as the new ones.
Also there is a good chance your transmission shaft splines are stripped also. You can get this shaft.
I think this problem is caused by loose bolts from the transmission to shuttle clutch causing a mis-alignment and sawing action on the engaging splines. Thus noise is probably grinding sound as the last of the spines are ripped away.
Al Lamore
Hi, these older shuttle clutches were not built very well. I have
taken mine apart and put it back together again. I am currently
using Chevron ISO Rando 150 in my shuttle clutch. If you over fill
the shuttle clutch reservoir the oil will get real hot and slipping of the
S.C. can occur. You have a strange problem in that the shuttle clutch
is operated by a piston like device , one way or the other to engage
the front or rear clutch assemblies. Sounds like your “rotate valve” has a problem and is not letting hydraulic fluid recirculate when you are in neutral. Also install a water or oil pressure gauge, like rainbird, at the tap block next to the “rotate valve” underneath. You can trouble shoot your shuttle clutch problem with this gauge. 40 PSI max. for the pressure relief valve adjustment. A good system can engage the forward and reverse clutch packs at about 25 psi.
You should have near zero pressure reading when in neutral, because you are just recirculating and not engaging the clutch packs. I actually made a movie how this whole system works with the clutch pack taken out of the machine and ran on water pressure with gauges.
So your problem is pretty simple compared to what I have had in the past. There are so many places that S.C. hydraulic oil pressure can be lost in this system and seals that can leak, not including the distribution block on the main shaft (this shaft has holes in it and is hollow, etc., and receives the flow of hydraulic oil for forward or reverse operation). A central, large piston in the middle of the shaft
moves forward or backwards engaging the clutch packs.
Al Lamore
