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I got to play with the unit a little yesterday and installed a pressure gauge on the shift lever assembly. Cold pressure was 75 psi and i backed it down to 40 as the manual said. I let it run gears in neutral and shuttle in forward and after about 20 min the pressure dropped to about 30 psi with warm fluid. I adjusted back up to 40 and it was slowly failing in forward. Pressure seemed to maintain but i ran out of time to continue with trouble shooting. I did look at shuttle housing and it is a banjo bolt not 3 bolt flange. But i do remember no screen there. Do you have any images of this so i can reference when I do get it apart? I am trying to locate the relief valve at this point as well.
I will look into finding the right fluid in my area (near Rochester NY). I feel as the relief valve with all the scoring on it is a problem even if the the o rings in the shift lever are bad.. I am going to try and find the relief valve assembly and just replace it. i did not get a chance to wrench on it today as friend showed up and we worked his car then drank beer…the end….lol. I thought about the shift lever next because i have not had it apart. I don’t think its from the shuttle clutch because i put all new in, but anything is possible. I will do the shift lever next, but i want to get you a pic of the 3 bolt flange on shuttle clutch return with restriction in it. Its been almost a yr since i last had it off, but I remember it being restricted.
Today I got to spend a little time I cleaned the relief valve, which is located on my shifter, not one on the pump. On this model, it was scored up a bit and I cleaned it with some fine Emery paper. Ran it for a little while same thing happened, I lose forward first and then eventually reverse, brought it back in the shop, pull the relief valve BAC out and found a piece of rubber stuck in it, cleared it, tried to run it again, still won’t move because it’s warm. Maybe tomorrow, I’ll have time to pull that 3 bolt flange off, and I will get a picture of the office or restriction that was in it, if that makes sense.
It sounds to me like you’re losing hydraulic pressure that compresses the servos, and somehow related to time and/or localized heat. Have you checked/cleaned the pump suction screen in the bottom of the housing? Also possible that the clutch pump bypass/relief is sticking open – may be that the spring is weak or broken. If the pump doesn’t have a relief valve there is one in the shift selector valve. The selector valve also has O-rings that could be bypassing and just dumping oil back into the reservoir.
This unit did not have the screen in the housing. I will check O-rings and the relief valve hopefully later today. I do remember having to blow out one of the lines going to the pump as it had a small orifice and was partially plugged. I believe it was at or near the base of the shuttle clutch housing. Is this where the screen should be located? I am not sure how i could install one there as of yet.
Hey Bob,
Its been a while but I am back at the dozer again. Heres where I am at currently today. The dozer runs fantastic and can be used for about 30min before it stops moving. Seems like when its warm it will not go into forward or reverse. Reverse lasts longer but eventually it stops completely as well. Let it cool down and back to work again. Understand its not overheating, you can put your hand on the return tank and it is merely warm. I am not really sure where to start with this issue. I am running Iso46 for the shuttle clutch. When its cool and just start using the machine its perfect. no slipping excellent power will spin the tracks with heavy load in front.
Any ideas?
Wow.. that pic is horribly misleading. The hard plumbed line in front is the oil pressure gauge to the fitting on the block at bottom of pic. The fuel bowl runs in copper down under the oil pressure fitting on the block back up to the hand prime pump, out through the filter and back to inj. pump. There is also a copper line from just in front of the injection lines to the hand pump as well. Bypass/return I assume.
There is a return line from the injectors to the top of the tank. Braided hose to copper line to top of tank.
So the tank has only one outlet at the fuel bowl and one inlet on top for the return line.
Also this cable was completely different than the one i removed. For the better though. Fits perfectly and the threaded end made it way easier to make a quick bracket to hold it in place. Now i can see there is no need for the spring. The injection pump pulls back when engine is running. :good:
- I did get a handful of wrenches and a grease gun with a needle greaser with these parts no hoses though or sockets I don’t know if these pictures will come out of my new bracket for the throttle cable
So this is a JD engine. TY395LT. Pretty fantastic that if you wipe the engine tag with your finger, it completely removes all writing. I just went through the parts box and found sleeves of all different seals, a mixed bag of hydraulic fittings, (really odd ball stuff, all compression ends with male and female ends and a T with 2 compression ends and a double straight threaded end) All I assume are European thread. A assorted bag of engine parts ( a couple rings, 4 valves, a couple valve springs, a couple crank bearings, a head gasket and valve spring tool. This engine doesn’t appear to have ever been apart. I will ask the youngest boy, he will know if it was.
Ed was known to be a little over the top with things. He may have stock piled this stuff just incase. It appears to be every seal and o-rings that the machine needs X6.
Lol…let me know if you ever need anything!!!
