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I had no problem getting parts for my dozer from Northern Tool. Just make sure you talk with someone that actually works on the dozer. They even have some procedures on how to do repairs.
If Northern Tool does not have the part, email Yuchai directly. They are very prompt in answering emails and will bill your charge card.
Phil
Weld a washer to the broken bolt in the casting (MIG) and then weld a nut to the washer.
I am unable to search the forums and the data I seek my have been lost in the periodic data dumps so I ask…..
What torque value would you use on the injector fuel line bolt (banjo bolt?)?
What torque value would you use on the two bolts holding the injector in place?
Thanks
Pink was bad enough. Please do notstartthis !
In my case, I ordered a hydraulic filter unit from Northern Tool and kept on using the same type filter.
I have been using a WIX 51551 which is a 10 micron paper filter. If you cross reference the Hastings HF985, you get a WIX 51614. Same thread size but it is steel mesh with a much larger micron sizing. The gasket size of WIX 51551 may work but as to which filter you should use I yield to Bob Rooks.
Finally…. my dozer final drives have been reinstalled and the dozer should soon be back in operation. I did a lot of complaining about having to remove the dozer final drives just to replace brake bands and thinking my brakes band should have lasted longer. Well… the brake bands were not badly worn but the right brake band was soaked in oil. Turns out I had a defective brake drum where the shaft hole was off the center line of the drum. Now, I have new brake bands with the thicker pads and a new right brake drum that should outlast me.
I would not be telling the truth if told you I hadn't thought about selling the dozer instead of replacing the brake bands. Looking back, I learned much about the dozer and problem solving. Would I do it again…probably. Would I do it for someone else….NOT A CHANCE!
What I learned:
I should have been opening the drain plugs in the “brake/steering” casting and the sides of the transmission looking for oil every time I did maintenance on the dozer.
It is a tight fit for these new brake bands. Left side went together fine but not right side. On the right, I had to turn down a piece of 1″ pipe to keep the new brake drum centered while I worked to get the drum into the brake band.
It IS a big job replacing dozer brake bands and I had to have a gantry crane with two hoists. One hoist to lift and hold the “saddle” and one hoist to lift the final drive. This hoist along with a transmission jack helped me align the brake drum with the steering clutch when I reinstalled the final drive units.
My go to place for dozer parts is Northern Tool. I received quality parts at a fair price. Northern's procedure was great and they were very helpful in getting me the right parts. Yuchai was great to work with and answered emails promptly. A big thanks to Bob Rooks for his help and advise.
Can I assume this clutch alignment tool will also work on the dozer which has the 395T engine?
Thanks for the information. I have printed it to add to my paperwork.
My information I think came from Greg which says something like … if it does not say safe for yellow metal, do not use it….
When I first got my dozer, I drained the GL5 I had just installed because the lab would not say it was safe for yellow metal and replaced with GL4. Live and learn!
I do not want to start any oil wars but thought the oil additives for extreme pressure (EP) were unsafe for “yellow metal”.
Should we not be concerned about “yellow metal”?
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