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http://www.tytantractor.com/40…..parts.html
See Brake Assembly, Fig. 22
Sorry! Thought you were waiting for the “problem” to be fixed.
My dozer is just sitting in the shop waiting on the new segmented brake bands. Beginning to think they might be at the bottom of the sea.
The old band is now segmented. As to how hard it was to pull, I can only say a person could probably not do it by hand, but with a 1/2 ton chain hoist it was very easy. I think it would have been easy with a 1/4 ton hoist.
Have not received the new bands yet and I plan on only doing one brake at a time. I think by pushing and pulling, the new band will be easy to install. Will post when I have installed the new band.
As far as I am concerned, the condition of the steering clutches, main clutch, gears, etc. can remain a mystery. All work just fine!
My old brake band on the left side has been removed from the top but to do this, I had to cut the end of the band off rendering it unusable for relining. The ends are not only riveted but welded to the band. New brake band will be segmented!
I ended up drilling a hole in the band for a wire and pulled the old band out using my gantry crane. An engine hoist could also be used. The hardest part of the job was removing the brake cam shaft. This shaft must be removed first to remove the pins.
To sum this topic up, the final drives DO NOT have to be removed to install the new segmented brake bands. Doing a brake job is really not that hard.
Still do not know what brake bands I will use but could not wait. Opened up the top of the left “brake casting” to see about removing the old band. It looks like I will have to rotate the brake cam so the pin holding the short end of the band is out of the casting.
Question: Do I remove the brake cam roll pin or do I remove the arm that rotates the shaft and reinstall to use for leverage in rotating the cam?
Bob Rooks or Leon (mailman55) would have the best advice but in my humble opinion the tear down will be the easy part. Putting it back together will be another story. I had to remove the casting that holds my radiator for repair and I do not think I could have put it together without my hydraulic spreader. (HF 10 ton portable hydraulic equipment.) Another would be putting on your tracks. Remember reading about someone using a HF pull back ram and custom hooks. I built something out of 1″ all thread and five nuts. Welded one nut on the end of the all thread so I could turn with a socket wrench. Then I made hooks out of 1/4″ metal and welded two nuts to each hook. Have not tried it yet but I am ready just in case I throw a track.
Phil
Like the strap idea. I tend to fall more in Leon's camp i.e. If it ain't broke……
Shannon, Did you purchase the new segmented brake bands? After looking at the new old bands, I do not see how the metal could get much thinner.
Based on comments in the total tear down topic, I did some measurements. From the ground to the top of the ROPS is 90″ and it must be lifted 7″ to clear brackets. My HF gantry crane is set at 11' and the max height of the chain hoist hook is 108″ leaving me only 11″ to play with. Very close!!
Two knowledgeable and experienced people have told me that I must remove the final drives on my dozer to get my old brake bands (worn band) out. The new segmented brake bands (new band) can be installed/removed from the top. For me, the jury is still out so let me state my case.
For ease of comparison, I down loaded Shannon's pictures in his post #46 in the Yachai Brake Adjustment topic, the picture of the new segmented brake band, post #39 of this topic and picture of the “new old” brake band (old band) post #51 of this topic, to my computer desktop.
FACTS:
Picture of new band shows bolts on the long unlined band end (long end) and rivets on the short unlined band end (short end).
The segments allow the new band to open and fit around the brake drum.
Bolted end of new band must be removed prior to installing/removing from the top.
ASSUMPTIONS:
After new band is installed, bolts are installed with the long end sticking out of the top of the casting.
The worn band should be thin allowing the band to open like the new band.
If the new band can be attached/removed from the brake cam from the top so can the worn band.
DISCUSSION:
I cannot ignore the advice already given so I will remove the dozer ROPS and park it on 2×12's. My plan is to:
Remove the top of the brake band casting.
Detach the worn band ends.
Pull the long end out of the casting so all four rivets are out of the top. Shannon's picture shows I have plenty of room.
Seal the top of the casting to prevent contamination.
Drill out the four rivets and remove end.
Unseal the top of the casting.
Attach a nylon strap to the rivet holes.
Pull the worn band out of the casting by the short end.
Vacuum bottom of casting, if possible.
Install new band.If this does not work, then I have no choice but to remove the final drives. Any suggestions or comments?
