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Thanks for your answers Bob, David, Tinbender. Also the link. I thought it was some kind of debris trap but debris can’t get in the pipe because it has a gauze end. Not sure why the photo didn’t load. Phil
Yes Bob Rooks it did occur to me that I might have to do that, failing to find an easily obtainable kit. Thanks
Thanks for the offer of the pages but having just retired I don't have access to a fax anymore. I have altered my own diagram anyway. The starter relay must be a bit weak so If another one goes in future I will wire in a generic one. Having owned the 404 for about 9 years now this is the first electrical fault I can recall.
Again on a different matter I have just purchased a spool valve which I am going to plumb into the system. My two sets of remotes are in permanent use with the fitted FEL which means effectively I don't have any spares for my wood splitter. Also I wouldn't mind a hydraulic top link. Plumbing my bucket into a new spool valve at the front will make this possible. Cheers Phil
Thanks to yocsr for your post. I finally got the 404 going again. On my tractor the –ve wiring connection is at the fuse box area. However this wasn’t the problem. I finally discovered that the –ve connection at the battery frame connection was poor. Over the years water had corroded the connection quite badly. Repairing this allowed the relays to operate. However once I had rectified this, the tractor still would not start because the start relay was U/S. I managed to get one overnight from Circle D in Midvale, Perth, Western Australia. (credit where due). Maybe the relay failing was the bang I heard from under the instrument panel. Whether the poor –ve connection contributed to the relay failure I do not know.
On a slightly different note, although the wiring diagram supplied with the tractor at new was useful. There are mistakes in it. So far I have found three while fixing my fault. No 1. The clutch safety switch for starting is not shown on the diagram. No 2. The starter relay is called “alternator” on my diagram and the supply wire to the starter pre-engagement solenoid is labeled “armature”. No 3. The main relay is also drawn incorrectly. It doesn’t show a coil and the contact is where the coil should be. So I reckon 10 and 14 are the relay coil and 1 and 3 are the N/O contact.
Finally, I hope my problems help someone else along the line.
I managed
to change the leaking seals. By using a small jeweler’s screwdriver I skewered
the rubber O-ring and pulled it out. I did not remove the back up plastic seal.
The size of the ring was 20mm x 3.5mm which I think is a R17 size. I was able
to push a new O-ring into place using my fingers. If I ever decide to replace
the complete coupling I would consider using the Flat Faced type. Apparently
there is no oil loss when this type is connected and disconnected. All good
now.
