Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I’ve only had the FEL off a couple of times and that was many years ago. I don’t remember but the bucket is either supposed to be flat on the ground or completely upside down. I think flat is correct.
In any case, you leave the hydraulics connected and use the FEL to help get it released from the mount. You unpin the cross bar at the battery box and pull the pins at the main brackets after you set it down on stands. Using the hydraulics gets a bit awkward as the movements are reversed. Also it has to be finessed into place and the OEM control is lacking in that regard.
Once it is free of the brackets you can shut down and pull the quick couplings apart.
Getting it off is easier than getting it on, but it is just the reverse order of operations.
On a side note, the last time I work ed on the clutch, I didn’t want to mess with the FEL so I rigged up some blocks and jacks to take the weight of the left side and simply removed the mounting bracket for access. That too was awkward, but it was much less work in the end.
Clutch work on these things is kind of like doing taxes. A royal PITA, and easily put off until it MUST be done. 🙁
Here is how I would go about it.
First, measure from the face of the mounting flange on the bell housing to the back side of the flywheel.
Then, manually turn the starter drive to extend it as far as it will go. Measure the distance from the starter mounting flange to the forward most edge of the pinion gear.
Compare the two measurements to determine if the fully extended gear will completely engage the ring gear.
If it does not reach far enough, it is probably the wrong started for that engine.
If it DOES extend far enough, then you need to test the starter under load to see if the pinion gear is fully extending on its own. It is quite normal for these things to get dry and not extend all the way.
I haven’t had a gear drive starter apart so I don’t know what mechanism drives the pinion gear. On the non-gear starters, that is driven by the starter solenoid via a fork on the pinion gear. If the solenoid gets weak or if the battery voltage is low the pinion will fail to fully extend and can cause all kinds of issues including wear on the teeth that you are seeing.
I know that when I ordered my reduction gear started, I had to measure the nose length of the old starter in order to get the proper length.
Is this a new starter that doesn’t fit well or has it been working fine and is just now starting to wear?
From the pictures that does not look too unusual, as there often is a little chamfer on the leading edge of the teeth to make engagement easier.
Hope this helps
Not likely to be a leaking injector. When the engine is not running any leak would bleed off the pressure before it dumped very much fuel.
More likely is the extended cranking was dumping fuel into the cylinders, which was not being burned until the engine fired up. Once it started running it started burning off the extra fuel and it took it a little bit to use it up.
Once it was back to normal the RPM’s dropped back. This happens to my tractor and I usually set it to about 1000 RPM until it warms up. As it does I usually have to pull the throttle back a couple of times. Think of it as slowly turning off the choke on a gas engine as it warms up.
Have you checked and or changed the oil in the injection pump governor? It is fine to just use the same oil as you put in the crankcase and it only takes a few ounces. I change mine at every oil change of the engine because there is a little bit of diesel that leaks into the lower part of the IP and it dilutes the oil.
On some engines, the IP is lubed by the engine oil system, but I doubt it is on your tractor. Just something to keep in mind.
Was the tank truly empty? If so, you may have gotten air into the lines.
Have you ever bled the fuel system? It is pretty easy to do.
If it were me, I would start at the tank. If there is a sediment bowl, check to make sure it is clean (including the fine screen that most of them have) and that there is adequate fuel flow. Next, go to the injection pump and look for the bleeder screw. It usually has a ring in it. You loosen the screw and use the hand pump to pump fuel until there are no more bubbles coming out, then tighten the bleeder screw.
Other potential problems include, plugged secondary fuel filter and air in the injection lines between the pump and the injectors. The best way to check the lines is to crack the nut at the injectors loose enough for them to spit fuel when you crank the engine. Again bleeding the air out. Do one injector at a time until all the air is gone. It should start easily then.
Another potential issue is “diesel bugs”. This is a bacteria that lives in the interface between water in the system and the diesel fuel. This can be a really nasty thing to have to deal with and can be quite damaging to the system as the dead bacteria sinks to the bottom and plugs up filters. It is also quite corrosive and can damage metal components. The main point is to keep all moisture out of the system. One of the main causes is leaving a tank that is not completely full. Thermal expansion/contraction draws in outside air and condenses the moisture into the fuel.
Hopefully a quick bleed of the system will take care or your tractor.
Let us know if you have any questions.
I’ve never had that problem but it is pretty easy to imagine it.
Does your engine smoke excessively or do you run it at idle for extended times?
It is possible that the injection pump timing may need adjustment.
You could also try some form of fuel treatment. Look for one that addresses carbon buildup.
How does it start and run otherwise?
Check the grounds.
It is the one thing they all have in common. If the power to all those gauges is consistent, it makes sense that there is a bad ground.
Second most likely problem is the key switch itself. Use a jumper wire to go from the hot to the run terminals on the back. That will by-pass the contacts inside the switch.
Let us know what you find.
Does it make a grinding sound when you try it?
Does it go into 1st, 2nd, and 3rd OK?
If it is gear grinding it is probably a clutch that needs adjusting.
If it doesn’t grind and the shift lever feels like it is hitting a block, there is probably something wrong in the transmission. Probably something wrong with the shift fork.
Easy enough to pop the top cover off and have a look.
You didn’t specify which tractor and loader you have so this will be rather generic.
Most front end loaders will only go below level (dig) a couple of inches. If you raise the bucket and then roll it all the way inverted (dump) so that the opening is pointing towards the ground you may gain an inch or two when picking up the front of the tractor. Many FELs are designed this way so the bucket acts as a stabilizer when using the backhoe attachment. Not all of them have this feature.
Since your loader will pick up the tractor, it sounds like it has plenty of power so it will probably pick up a load just fine. Keep in mind that tractor loaders are generally not as tough as real front end loader machines. Stay within the operating limits and be gentle and they will last a long time. Abuse one and bad things happen fast.
Most all hydraulic systems have some internal leakage. This is where the practice of “ground your equipment” came from. That means to always lower all implements to the ground before shutting the tractor off, unless you are actively using it in a raised position. Two days to settle back to the ground is actually pretty good for a tractor loader.
Most tractor 3 point control valves have no effect on the loader control valves so leak down of one will not affect the other.
If you need to raise the front end more than the normal travel of the FEL will allow, build up some dunage under where the bucket will contact the ground so that it will start lifting sooner as the bucket goes downward.
Hope this helps
I have the same tractor except it was built in 2006.
Most likely your fuel filter number from Jinma is CXD706. If it is the original filter the number may be faded out and you won’t be able to read it. However, I don’t see any different numbers except a possible Yangdong number of Y385T-10500, which I have no cross reference for.
Do the fuel lines go in and out of the adapter directly opposite of each other or is one of them on the top? If opposite, it is most likely the CXD706.
In this case you can use:
NAPA 3195
FRAM P6503
AC TP1247
WIX 33195 (WIX makes the NAPA filter, NAPA just drops the first digit of the WIX number.
