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Check the grounds.
It is the one thing they all have in common. If the power to all those gauges is consistent, it makes sense that there is a bad ground.
Second most likely problem is the key switch itself. Use a jumper wire to go from the hot to the run terminals on the back. That will by-pass the contacts inside the switch.
Let us know what you find.
Does it make a grinding sound when you try it?
Does it go into 1st, 2nd, and 3rd OK?
If it is gear grinding it is probably a clutch that needs adjusting.
If it doesn’t grind and the shift lever feels like it is hitting a block, there is probably something wrong in the transmission. Probably something wrong with the shift fork.
Easy enough to pop the top cover off and have a look.
You didn’t specify which tractor and loader you have so this will be rather generic.
Most front end loaders will only go below level (dig) a couple of inches. If you raise the bucket and then roll it all the way inverted (dump) so that the opening is pointing towards the ground you may gain an inch or two when picking up the front of the tractor. Many FELs are designed this way so the bucket acts as a stabilizer when using the backhoe attachment. Not all of them have this feature.
Since your loader will pick up the tractor, it sounds like it has plenty of power so it will probably pick up a load just fine. Keep in mind that tractor loaders are generally not as tough as real front end loader machines. Stay within the operating limits and be gentle and they will last a long time. Abuse one and bad things happen fast.
Most all hydraulic systems have some internal leakage. This is where the practice of “ground your equipment” came from. That means to always lower all implements to the ground before shutting the tractor off, unless you are actively using it in a raised position. Two days to settle back to the ground is actually pretty good for a tractor loader.
Most tractor 3 point control valves have no effect on the loader control valves so leak down of one will not affect the other.
If you need to raise the front end more than the normal travel of the FEL will allow, build up some dunage under where the bucket will contact the ground so that it will start lifting sooner as the bucket goes downward.
Hope this helps
I have the same tractor except it was built in 2006.
Most likely your fuel filter number from Jinma is CXD706. If it is the original filter the number may be faded out and you won’t be able to read it. However, I don’t see any different numbers except a possible Yangdong number of Y385T-10500, which I have no cross reference for.
Do the fuel lines go in and out of the adapter directly opposite of each other or is one of them on the top? If opposite, it is most likely the CXD706.
In this case you can use:
NAPA 3195
FRAM P6503
AC TP1247
WIX 33195 (WIX makes the NAPA filter, NAPA just drops the first digit of the WIX number.
It would be helpful to know what model of Jinma tractor and what engine it has in it. The year built would help too.
Also, which fuel filter are you wanting to change?
Are you having a specific problem or are you just doing preventative maintenance?
There could be a strainer inside the fuel tank.
There should be a sediment bowl with screen under the fuel tank.
There may be another strainer inside the fuel pump where the inlet hose is connected.
The main filter, sometimes called a secondary filter or final filter is probably a spin on unit like the oil filter. Jinma used different mounting setups on different machines and in different years. Some have metric threads and some have imperial threads. About the only way you can tell for sure is to get the number off the old filter, if it is visible, or remove the old filter and measure it.
I have a filter cross over chart and can probably find a suitable domestic filter if you can tell me the number of the original.
We could use a little more information.
What make model and year of tractor?
Where do they break, at the hook or in the coils?
Are they the same size as the original springs? Length, diameter, wire size
Have you tried springs of a different wire diameter, as in thicker?
What about a lighter duty spring? All you need is enough tension to return the thrust bearing to home position and hold the pedal up against the stop.
Have you tried a different brand of spring? Those Hillman units are for general purpose/home use. A spring from an equipment dealer/supplier might be of better quality.
My 284 was built 10/2006 and it had a drain plug for the hydraulics. It is located in the bottom left side of the 3 point top link bracket. This bracket is bolted to the tank and has a gasket to seal it.
I removed the bracket and drilled and tapped a hole to allow me to install a tank heater for the oil. If you your bracket does not have this drain plug, it would be easy enough to install one by drilling and tapping the cast iron bracket.
You can always use a suck gun through the filler hole to get most of the fluid out of the tank.
What leads you to believe there is water in the fluid?
I think that total capacity is only a couple of gallons. If you suck out all you can then refill with fresh you can run it a few hours and do it again and that should get most all of the contaminates out. Don’t forget to clean the pickup screen that is in the tank, or replace the filter if your tractor has that option.
Not exactly sure what you are saying here.
You rolled your tractor, or you attempted to start it and the engine won’t turn over?
In any case, which engine are we talking about?
Have you checked the oil and radiator levels? Anything out of the ordinary there?
When was the engine last started? Did it function normally at that time?
If I had an engine that won’t turn over, after I proved the battery and starter, I would put a wrench on the crank and try to turn it both directions. Or open one of the bell housing ports and try to turn it both ways with a pry bar.
If you can’t turn it either way, there may be something else wrong.
If that didn’t yield any results, I would then take the rocker cover off and try to determine if there is something wrong there.
Typically a true hydo-lock means that the cylinder is full of fluid. Most piston rings are not an absolute seal, so they should let the fluid leak down past the rings into the crankcase after some time. Path of least resistance is to give it a day or two and try again.
Are you seeing bubbles in the radiator or did you have a coolant analysis done to determine that there are combustion gases in the coolant?
If you have confirmation of the gasses in the coolant, and not knowing the history of the engine, my first move would be to check the head bolt torque. If you get any movement of the bolts while re-torquing then that might be all it needs.
If that doesn’t solve the problem, then you are going to have to pull the head to see what is going on. With luck it is just a bad head gasket and you will get a chance to clean and inspect things once it is opened up. I would probably also take the head to a machine shop to have it checked for flatness and magna-fluxed if possible.
If everything else looks good, put it back together with a new head gasket and fresh coolant. Run it and test again.
At this point it is still a detective game.
How many hours on the engine?
Where has it been? Any possibility it was frozen and has a cracked block or other damage?
