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Was the tank truly empty? If so, you may have gotten air into the lines.
Have you ever bled the fuel system? It is pretty easy to do.
If it were me, I would start at the tank. If there is a sediment bowl, check to make sure it is clean (including the fine screen that most of them have) and that there is adequate fuel flow. Next, go to the injection pump and look for the bleeder screw. It usually has a ring in it. You loosen the screw and use the hand pump to pump fuel until there are no more bubbles coming out, then tighten the bleeder screw.
Other potential problems include, plugged secondary fuel filter and air in the injection lines between the pump and the injectors. The best way to check the lines is to crack the nut at the injectors loose enough for them to spit fuel when you crank the engine. Again bleeding the air out. Do one injector at a time until all the air is gone. It should start easily then.
Another potential issue is “diesel bugs”. This is a bacteria that lives in the interface between water in the system and the diesel fuel. This can be a really nasty thing to have to deal with and can be quite damaging to the system as the dead bacteria sinks to the bottom and plugs up filters. It is also quite corrosive and can damage metal components. The main point is to keep all moisture out of the system. One of the main causes is leaving a tank that is not completely full. Thermal expansion/contraction draws in outside air and condenses the moisture into the fuel.
Hopefully a quick bleed of the system will take care or your tractor.
Let us know if you have any questions.
I’ve never had that problem but it is pretty easy to imagine it.
Does your engine smoke excessively or do you run it at idle for extended times?
It is possible that the injection pump timing may need adjustment.
You could also try some form of fuel treatment. Look for one that addresses carbon buildup.
How does it start and run otherwise?
Check the grounds.
It is the one thing they all have in common. If the power to all those gauges is consistent, it makes sense that there is a bad ground.
Second most likely problem is the key switch itself. Use a jumper wire to go from the hot to the run terminals on the back. That will by-pass the contacts inside the switch.
Let us know what you find.
Does it make a grinding sound when you try it?
Does it go into 1st, 2nd, and 3rd OK?
If it is gear grinding it is probably a clutch that needs adjusting.
If it doesn’t grind and the shift lever feels like it is hitting a block, there is probably something wrong in the transmission. Probably something wrong with the shift fork.
Easy enough to pop the top cover off and have a look.
You didn’t specify which tractor and loader you have so this will be rather generic.
Most front end loaders will only go below level (dig) a couple of inches. If you raise the bucket and then roll it all the way inverted (dump) so that the opening is pointing towards the ground you may gain an inch or two when picking up the front of the tractor. Many FELs are designed this way so the bucket acts as a stabilizer when using the backhoe attachment. Not all of them have this feature.
Since your loader will pick up the tractor, it sounds like it has plenty of power so it will probably pick up a load just fine. Keep in mind that tractor loaders are generally not as tough as real front end loader machines. Stay within the operating limits and be gentle and they will last a long time. Abuse one and bad things happen fast.
Most all hydraulic systems have some internal leakage. This is where the practice of “ground your equipment” came from. That means to always lower all implements to the ground before shutting the tractor off, unless you are actively using it in a raised position. Two days to settle back to the ground is actually pretty good for a tractor loader.
Most tractor 3 point control valves have no effect on the loader control valves so leak down of one will not affect the other.
If you need to raise the front end more than the normal travel of the FEL will allow, build up some dunage under where the bucket will contact the ground so that it will start lifting sooner as the bucket goes downward.
Hope this helps
I have the same tractor except it was built in 2006.
Most likely your fuel filter number from Jinma is CXD706. If it is the original filter the number may be faded out and you won’t be able to read it. However, I don’t see any different numbers except a possible Yangdong number of Y385T-10500, which I have no cross reference for.
Do the fuel lines go in and out of the adapter directly opposite of each other or is one of them on the top? If opposite, it is most likely the CXD706.
In this case you can use:
NAPA 3195
FRAM P6503
AC TP1247
WIX 33195 (WIX makes the NAPA filter, NAPA just drops the first digit of the WIX number.
It would be helpful to know what model of Jinma tractor and what engine it has in it. The year built would help too.
Also, which fuel filter are you wanting to change?
Are you having a specific problem or are you just doing preventative maintenance?
There could be a strainer inside the fuel tank.
There should be a sediment bowl with screen under the fuel tank.
There may be another strainer inside the fuel pump where the inlet hose is connected.
The main filter, sometimes called a secondary filter or final filter is probably a spin on unit like the oil filter. Jinma used different mounting setups on different machines and in different years. Some have metric threads and some have imperial threads. About the only way you can tell for sure is to get the number off the old filter, if it is visible, or remove the old filter and measure it.
I have a filter cross over chart and can probably find a suitable domestic filter if you can tell me the number of the original.
We could use a little more information.
What make model and year of tractor?
Where do they break, at the hook or in the coils?
Are they the same size as the original springs? Length, diameter, wire size
Have you tried springs of a different wire diameter, as in thicker?
What about a lighter duty spring? All you need is enough tension to return the thrust bearing to home position and hold the pedal up against the stop.
Have you tried a different brand of spring? Those Hillman units are for general purpose/home use. A spring from an equipment dealer/supplier might be of better quality.
My 284 was built 10/2006 and it had a drain plug for the hydraulics. It is located in the bottom left side of the 3 point top link bracket. This bracket is bolted to the tank and has a gasket to seal it.
I removed the bracket and drilled and tapped a hole to allow me to install a tank heater for the oil. If you your bracket does not have this drain plug, it would be easy enough to install one by drilling and tapping the cast iron bracket.
You can always use a suck gun through the filler hole to get most of the fluid out of the tank.
What leads you to believe there is water in the fluid?
I think that total capacity is only a couple of gallons. If you suck out all you can then refill with fresh you can run it a few hours and do it again and that should get most all of the contaminates out. Don’t forget to clean the pickup screen that is in the tank, or replace the filter if your tractor has that option.
