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Not likely to be the voltage regulator. What relay did you order?
Have you traced the power from the battery cable from point to point starting at the battery? Either a 12v test light or a volt meter or multi-meter will do the job.
Fuse blocks on these tractors are notorious for bad connections. even though the fuse is good, the wiring connector may not be.
Another known weak spot is the key switch. Have you tried the run position to the left instead of the one on the right?
Do you have a wiring schematic to follow?
Did this symptom just start or is there a history of electrical issues?
Personally I would start at the power feed to the fuse block. IF that is dead, work my way back towards the battery until I found power. If there is power at the fuse block I would test at the ampmeter and the key switch then follow outward until I found the fault.
The positive battery cable runs from the battery to the starter, all the rest of the electrical system flows out from the starter and that is an easy place to access.
An old axiom of electrical system troubleshooting is “check the grounds, check the grounds, check the grounds”. All power flows back to the battery through the ground wire that is attached to the frame. If that connection is bad nothing works. Take the bolt out of the frame and sandpaper the frame and cable lug to make them shiny then re-assemble.
Let us know what you find and we can go from there.
There is most likely one or more adjustments for your clutch depending on what make and model of tractor and what options came with it. The most common is a Jinma or derivative with a two stage clutch for a live PTO. There would be 3 different adjustments on that style of clutch.
The symptom you describe does not usually indicate an out of adjustment condition. The first and easiest thing to check is the roll pin that connects the bell-crank to the shaft that goes through the bell housing. This is a known weak point on Jinma tractors. The roll pin can shear off internally and it is hard to detect from the outside.
With no pressure on the clutch pedal, make a witness mark across the end of the shaft and the bell-crank. Use a marking pin, some paint or just scribe a line. Then have a helper push the clutch pedal all the way in while carefully watching the witness mark. Any movement between the shaft and the bell-crank indicates a problem with the roll pin.
If that all looks OK, you are going to need to take the inspection plate (or the front end loader bracket) off and have a look inside to see what is going on. You need this access to make the internal adjustments anyway.
Do you have the operators and/or parts manuals for your tractor?
As I understand it, yes, a 3 point lift piston can come out of the cylinder (inside under the seat) and get cocked at an angle and won’t go back in.
Do you have a parts book that shows the parts for the 3 point? If not, go to one of the dealers such as Circle G or Affordable and look up the 3 point piston. That will show you how things go together.
If you drain the fluid and take the back cover off, you may be able to see what is going on inside. You might get lucky and just have to lift up on the arms enough to get things back in place.
That sensor is for the tachometer. It detects the teeth of the flywheel going by so that it can calculate engine RPM.
I see that you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I am betting that is not factory.
Here are some pictures of the glow plugs. They sit between the injectors and the valve cover.
Also there is a good one and one that came apart during removal. That was a long story in itself.
Do you have a decompression mechanism? If so, make sure it is connected properly and not locked in the decompress mode. I had difficulty getting it reinstalled properly when I had the valve cover off. The engine should spin freely with decompression open and “chug” on each compression with it closed.
Flooding is a definite possibility based on what you describe. Pull the fuel cut-off and hold it while spinning the engine over. If you have a decompression system and it is working properly, hold that open too while you spin the engine. Doing this should purge the excess fuel from the cylinders and allow you to “start over” on the start sequence.
Valve timing is determined by the gears under the front cover, If you didn’t have that apart it is not likely to be an issue. Did you replace the valve push rods to their original positions?
My tractor likes a little glow plug on the first start of the day, no matter how warm it is outside. The glow plugs are on the left side of the valve cover and are all connected to each other by a copper or brass buss bar. If they are working properly you should see a huge amp draw on the gauge as you hit the key position just before the start.
My start procedure is to hold the fuel cut off and decompression levers, hit the starter and let the engine spin until oil pressure comes up on the gauge. The release the fuel cut off and set the hand throttle to about 1/4 to 1/3 open. The hit the glow plugs for 15 to 30 seconds. Then hit the starter and let it hit max RPM before dropping the decompression lever. That way you have the mass of the flywheel helping to overcome the compression strokes. It usually starts in just a couple of revolutions.
Sounds to me like you will be an “engine guy” when this is all said and done. 🙂
There will be a specific order for the piston rings, and there will be a top and bottom for each ring. The lowest ring is usually actually a set of two rings with a wavy spacer in between. This one is for oil control. The rest are considered compression rings. Looking at the parts book it looks like the top most ring is one part number and is different from the middle two, which are the same part number.
Typically when you assemble rings you stagger the gap before putting them in the bore. You will need a compression tool to squeeze then down to size as you push them into the sleeves. I think it is standard to apply some engine oil to them and the sleeves before inserting them.
Speaking of sleeves, I believe there is a specific amount that they are supposed to stand above the the block when fully installed. I remember seeing someone reference “deck hight” before but don’t know enough about it to give any advice on the subject.
On a gas engine I overhauled we used a 50/50 mix of engine oil and STP oil treatment as an assembly lube. The theory was that the STP made the oil sticky enough that it stayed put through the assembly process and then was easily washed away when the oil pump took over. Never had any issues with that engine so I have to assume it worked. I don’t know what is recommended for this engine but something like that couldn’t hurt (I would guess).
Good Work!
There is always the possibility that these pistons were faulty from the start. It is also quite possible that someone who didn’t know what they were doing used starting fluid on the engine and did this damage.
If you have someplace nearby that can magnaflux the head it might be a good idea to have it checked. Replacing all 3 is a good idea as there may be damage in the 3rd one that you just can’t see. No sense in going through all that again for the price of one more piston/sleeve.
I don’t know enough about overhauling one of these engines, but I would check with Circle G and see if they think you should replace the head bolts. Sometimes head or con-rod bolts are designed to stretch a certain amount when torqued and then are to be replaced if they are ever removed. I doubt that level of sophistication on these engines, but it won’t hurt to ask.
I did not expect to see that. Here is a scan of my parts book and it shows a gasket that looks like what you have. Call out # 10.
Take a look and see if what is in the book looks like your gasket. I have never had these parts off of my engine so don’t know what it’s like inside.
It may be that the gasket is designed to act as a baffle. The air enters through the slot, then has to travel sideways between the gasket and the cover to get to the breather tube.
Yes, that gasket could have been the problem. I didn’t catch it in the photo the first time I looked. I have a snowblower that has a reed valve in the breather. It froze up one time and caused oil to spit out everywhere!
If you leave the thermostat out you can see immediately if your pump is working and that is fine. Just don’t work the tractor without a thermostat as it will overheat without one. I know that sounds counter-intuitive but without the restriction provided by the thermostat the coolant does not stay in the radiator long enough to shed the heat it picks up in the engine.
I would confirm the function of the thermostat in a hot water bath and then put it back in if it works properly. I am lazy and cheap so I would put it back together once but use plain water for testing, not wasting the anti-freeze until I know it won’t be wasted. 🙂
In my experience most cooling problems are the thermostat. Fortunately on this engine you only have to drain about a gallon out of the system to lower the level far enough to replace it. If the top hose is soft you don’t even have to take it off the housing and if the gasket is fresh you can probably re-use it.
Watching through the radiator neck (make sure the cold level is just above the tubes) from cold start up to full temp will be quite telling. If your thermostat has a small bypass hole you should see a little circulation even when cold. If you have an IR thermometer it can show the temps as heat transfers through the engine. Temping the exhaust, head, thermostat housing, block and radiator would be something your kids might enjoy (educational too).
