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Well you have been busy! All good stuff too. It is a shame it did not resolve your issues. Let’s take a look at things one at a time.
Oil consumption might be improved with heavier weight oil in some circumstances but will probably not do much to seal up worn piston rings. Some engines are finicky with oil. I once had an air-cooled aircraft engine that gobbled up Aeroshell oil but when I switched brands to Philips it nearly stopped. An old mechanic gave the the hint to try a different brand and it worked. Would not have believed it if I hadn’t tried it.
Anyway, if ring blow by is causing the oil to be pushed out of the crankcase I would expect it to turn black in the first hour. How does the oil look now? Ring blow by may not be the cause of your oil issue. The coolant issue may be related but we will get to that in a moment.
Something is pressurizing the crankcase but what? The breather should be able to handle normal amounts of blow by but on your engine it can’t keep up. I know you cleaned it out but did you verify the tube back to the engine is not plugged? It is held to the block with two bolts with a gasket in between. I would take that off and make sure it was open all the way through and that the passageway is open into the pan. Then put it back together but leave the filter material out. Check the oil level and make a note of it. Start the engine and let it warm up then run it up to over half throttle and check to see if you can detect air coming out of the breather tube. Then take the dipstick out and check there too. Shut it down and after it cools for a few minutes check the oil level again and compare to before.
If the crankcase is overfull and the crankshaft is hitting the oil it would churn it up and cause all kinds of problems. Does the oil spit out of the dipstick tube right away when you start it? If so, you could drain the oil and replace just 3 quarts and test again. 3 quarts should be sufficient to lube the tractor for a short run just make sure the oil pressure comes up within 30 seconds of startup.
to be continued….
Oops, I thought you were talking about the Farm Pro.
My Jinma came with quick connects in the high pressure side of the hydraulic pump hose. The Jinma FEL came with matching quick connects so that mounting and unmounting the FEL is quick and easy. Uncouple the tractor hose and plug in the FEL. Then when you take off the FEL you just uncouple everything and plug the tractor back into itself.
Whoever mounted your FEL opted not to spend the extra $$ for the quick couplers and just plumbed it in directly.
Without knowing how the hoses are routed in your system, I would just be guessing at how to bypass the FEL. It is possible that in mounting the FEL the Steering was bypassed or connected incorrectly. Another possibility is that the pressure limit valve dumping oil back to the tank and not supplying enough pressure to the steering for it to function.
I would start at the pump and follow the hoses to make up a hand drawn diagram of the hydraulic system. If you post the diagram (or pictures of the complete hose routing) we can probably figure out how to proceed.
to clarify, the powersteering issue and steering wheel question was about a different tractor…these two issues are on a Agracat 2940 with kyoker 160 loader. I’m actually kind of confused on how to do what you recommended? There doesn’t appear to be any way to easily unhook things/no quick connects. Where and how would I do this. Sorry…just not tracking.
At the top of the web page click on CTOA Forums. Don’t click on any of the drop down menu items.
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OK, easy thing to check is take the loader out of the equation. Unhook all the couplers and plug the tractor side into the tractor side leaving the FEL unhooked. Then start it up and see if the steering works without the loader in the circuit.
After logging in, click on your own name. Under your name and avatar you will see links. One says profile and that will display your current info. At the bottom of the links is Edit. That one lets you add or modify your profile information.
You may or may not have the inline filter shown here but it is a good reference anyway:
https://www.circlegtractorparts.com/hydraulics/hydraulic-steering-and-pipe-4wd
Good move cleaning the breather. If it is plugged that could contribute to the dipstick blowout problem. That white gunk is water mixed with oil vapor. Normal for a tractor that is not used much.You might have fixed it with that on item. Put it to work and monitor it closely before getting too carried away with other testing. As long as you have oil pressure the innards will be fine.
Power steering: First off do you have a front end loader?
Is there a quick connect coupler in the rubber hose pressure line that comes out of the pump? The factory couplers had issues and can damage the pump if they malfunction. This in turn can cause the front pump seal to blow out and dump hydraulic fluid into the engine crankcase.
Does the 3 point hitch rise properly?
There is a priority valve between the pump and the steering box that is supposed to give steering priority over the 3 point hitch. If you have a front end loader, it is in the circuit before the priority valve so it is normal to have the steering “fade” while the FEL is in motion.
You are correct to not jump to the point of replacing the cylinder just yet. When you had fluid coming out of the lines was the engine running?
You should be able to jack the front wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel with the engine off and have the steering cylinder move the wheels. If it does not, then the cylinder is suspect but not condemned yet…
There were several variations of cylinders used on various brands/years produced by Jinma so if the cylinder is bad you will want to be very careful about getting the correct part.
If you think the cylinder might be bad, check with local hydraulic shops. Some will refuse to work on metric stuff but others are quite capable of fixing your cylinder if repair parts are available.
Steering Wheel: It is on a tapered shaft that also has splines. It can be a pain to remove but if you have a proper wheel puller it will pop off. Yes, just remove the horn button and the nut then use the puller. I have put anti-seize on mine and it still won’t come off without a puller. Just the nature of the beast. There should be threaded holes in the hub of the wheel for you to screw the puller to. If you try to pull it from any other location on the wheel, you may damage it.
A couple of additional thoughts:
You may not have to do an actual compression test to get an idea of what is going on. If you open the breather can on the right side of the engine you might be able to listen to it and figure something out. (not running of course).
Before I forget, was there filter material in the breather?
Anyway, you could just remove the glow plugs and use a rubber tipped air nozzle to blow air into each cylinder. Listen at the breather to see if you can hear the amount of air going through each one. You may have to turn the engine over if a cylinder has the exhaust valve open it will blow air out of the muffler and you won’t get a fair comparison.
At only 125 hours it should not have worn the rings out but it is possible that it was never broke in properly and you have glazed cylinder walls. This will lead to blow by and high oil consumption.
You have the proper oil in it and I would follow Dave’s advice and “blow the cobbs out of it”. Get it up to temp (warm up at 1000 RPM until temp gauge is in the green). Then work it hard for an hour. Shut it down and let it cool off. Check the oil level and color. Turning black in a couple of hours is normal and does not mean the oil is used up. Monitor the hour meter to make sure it is working.
Change your fuel filter and make sure to use clean high quality fuel that has not been stored a long time.
Take a look at the documents on my web site here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
The top one on the list will show the injection pump stuff on page 40. Lots of other good info in this document too.
Let us know if you have questions and if you need other info. I can scan anything I have and toss it on the web site.
