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OK, got it scanned and it didn’t turn out too big so it should attach here.
If not, it is on my web site and you can get to it here:
I have one I could scan into a PDF document if that works for you. I can post it on my website for you to download.
When the outer bearing went it probably changed the angle of the axle just enough to put stress on the inner bearing and seals. Replacing those items is a good idea.l If you wind up taking the other side apart, you can use that axle to judge how much damage was done to the left one. Hopefully it will still be usable.
From what I can see in the pictures the inside of the rear end looks really good. Hopefully there is not any debris in the bottom and there was no metal floating around to damage the inner parts. You probably dodged a bullet there.
Good work!
While I have never seen a throw out bearing that was attached to the clutch disk, I suppose it is possible. If the bearing were supposed to be attached to the clutch, it would mean the bearing had to rotate all the time, and it wouldn’t last long.
If the tractor was stored in a wet location with the clutch pedal pushed in, it might rust together, but that would take extreme circumstances.
More likely is the bearing failed and seized up, then when it was pushed against the clutch, it welded itself to the clutch.
Please post a picture if possible. Hopefully someone with a 354 will add some information about how it is made.
Take a look at the parts list on the Circle G web site. The picture for the left housing shows a groove where the snap ring sits. This means the bearing comes off with the housing but it can’t go over the axle shaft because there is a ridge on the shaft and a washer that rides on the bearing.
Also if you look at the picture of the axle shaft and zoom in you can see the threads for the nut cut into the splines of the shaft itself.
The parts diagram on the Circle G website is actually more readable than the printed book. Plus they have actual photos of most of the parts. Very helpful!
Please take pictures as you work through this and post them for others to see.
I too learned something today. My tractor does indeed have grease zerks for the outer bearings. They were covered with a large round rubber cap that had been painted over. The caps looked like just part of the casting. Dang, I have had this tractor for 13 years with almost 800 hours and have never greased that bearing.
I hope there is a hole in the bearing outer race that gets aligned with the zerk. Something to look out for when you re-assemble it.
Also if your inner bearing really did grenade, you will want to be diligent about removing all the debris from the rear end and inspecting all of the teeth of every gear in there to make sure there was no damage.
The parts book only shows the exploded view of the right hand side but I believe the axle is supposed to come out with the housing. The inner bearing is held onto the the axle with a snap ring that is inboard of the bearing. From the drawing it appears to be an internal snap ring that goes into a groove in the housing. If this is correct, the bearing is not a press fit in the housing.
There are two different drive gearboxes listed in my parts book. Version III and Version III (Double speed). I believe this is based on if you have a two speed PTO shaft. I’ll reference that model because that is the one I have. I think the parts for the axle are probably the same for each but the callout numbers are different.
There is a spanner nut (item 129 in my drawing, quantity 2) that appears to thread onto axle. This nut is inboard of the large 69 tooth bull gear that is splined to the axle.
There is a locking claw (number 132 in my book) that is attached to the left axle and I think it is held to the axle by circlip number 131.
I think you are going to have to take off the seat and the hydraulic tank/3 point cylinder to get to the inside of the rear end. Then take off the circlip and move the jaw out of the way so you can unscrew the spanner nut. This will allow the axle to come off with the housing so you can remove the inner snap ring to release the bearing from the housing.
I was under the impression that the axle was wet all the way out to the outer double seal but looking closer it appears that the inner bearing is wet while the outer one is lubed with a grease zerk. Now I need to go check my tractor (2006) and see if I have been neglecting a lube point. It would be interesting to know if you could leave out the inner seal and make the axle housing wet all the way out so that the outer bearing is lubed with 80W-90.
Take a look on pages 32 and 33 here http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Files/JINMA20-30A.pdf
Also here are a couple of scans from my parts manual
.5 atmospheres is 7.35 PSI
.5 Bars is 7.25 PSI
These are the only two units of measure that make any sense for .5
I know from experience that if you put a 13 PSI cap on a Jinma 284 radiator it will blow it up! You are probably safe with 6 to 8 PSI. If you don’t have a recovery system be sure to leave head space in the radiator for expansion, otherwise it just blows overboard. The factory cap on mine had a recovery system valve built into it so I added a generic bottle and filled the radiator to the top. Works perfect and easy to monitor the level without taking the cap off.
According to this web site 100 mesh is 149 microns.
https://www.filterbag.com/U-S-Mesh-vs-Micron-21.html
I don’t remember where I got the 100 mesh size as it is not listed in my parts book. I must have read or heard it somewhere, but I can’t confirm that number. In any case, I can see through the screen but not 25 micron filter material. More than likely there is nothing in your hydraulic system have clearances smaller than25 micron.
If you cause too much resistance to flow on the suction side, it can lead to cavitation of the pump gears which will be way more damaging than any debris that may pass the filter. An additional risk is causing a suction side leak which lets air into the system and that can drag dirt in with it. If this happens it will be on the “clean” side of the filter. I have this problem when operating at temps below zero even with 10W hydraulic oil.
The magnet idea can not hurt. You could put magnets on the outside of the filter can. 3 or 4 rare earth magnets spaced out evenly would probably do the trick. You could also drop one into the tank itself. Putting them on the filter would facilitate diagnostics when you cut the filter open for inspection.
