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Take a look at the documents on my web site here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
The top one on the list will show the injection pump stuff on page 40. Lots of other good info in this document too.
Let us know if you have questions and if you need other info. I can scan anything I have and toss it on the web site.
Some black puffs of smoke on acceleration is quite normal for a diesel engine. It is the excess fuel not getting completely burned until the engine RPM comes up enough to suck in the appropriate amount of air. I wouldn’t worry about that unless it is smoking all the time, in which case it will be a fuel system issue (usually).
You have the same engine as I have in my 2006 284 tractor and your oil level is just fine. More concerning though is the oil coming out of the dipstick tube. That should not ever happen. The breather can on the right side of the engine just has a metal mesh filer in it (if I remember correctly). The breather air contains a fair amount of oil mist which collects on the filter, then drains back into the crankcase when the tractor is shut down.
Since you have oil coming out both places this seems to indicate you have a piston ring blow by problem. Excessive blow by will pressurize the crankcase and force excessive air out of the breather and that will carry extra oil mist with it. Really excessive blow by could maybe force oil out of the dipstick tube.
I think my next step would be to do a compression test and see if you can figure out if just one cylinder is leaking past the rings or if they all do.
Can you tell by looking at the engine if it looks like it has been taken apart?
How many hours on the meter?
Do you have a 2 cylinder or 3 cylinder engine?
What was the oil level on the dipstick after you put in the new oil?
Did you get an owners manual with the tractor? If not, post what engine make and model is in the tractor and we can go from there to find out oil capacity.
I have a Jinma 284 (2006) with a Y385T engine and it takes right at 6 quarts so your 1-1/2 gal. is probably about right. However if you have the 2 cylinder engine it my only require about 4 quarts.
What color is the smoke?
Did you let it run long enough to see what happens when it warms up?
Have you checked the coolant level in the radiator to see if it is low or has oil in it?
Generally oil in the cylinders causes blueish smoke, too much fuel causes black smoke and coolant/water will cause a whitish color to the smoke. Keep in mind that cold engines usually smoke white/grey until they warm up.
I have had problems getting the proper parts too. The dealer I bought the crate tractor from was really good with parts for the first couple of years I had the tractor. Then there were personnel changes in the parts and service departments and they both went downhill terribly. I don’t even bother with them any more as they usually get the part wrong or forget to ship the order or just plain don’t know what they are talking about. It is a shame too as I really like that dealership and they had very competitive prices.
Usually I go to Circle G because they have a great online parts catalog. They seem to be on the ball and ship quickly even though they are on the high side with prices. You get what you pay for.
Hydraulic hoses and fittings are the hardest to deal with. Jinma used a wide variety of fittings and styles of connection over the years. Seems different on every other piece of equipment. Some of it is kind of standard and most of it not. Metric and European variations seem most prevalent. I currently have a miss-mash of all kinds of connections and adapters on my machines.
As I understand it, Jinma went through several variations (upgrades?) in the loader cylinders over the years and the seals are not compatible between them and they had a lot of different connection types as well. I have been lucky and not had any problems other than hoses and the BOSS seals are mostly crap and don’t last long.
OK, got it scanned and it didn’t turn out too big so it should attach here.
If not, it is on my web site and you can get to it here:
I have one I could scan into a PDF document if that works for you. I can post it on my website for you to download.
When the outer bearing went it probably changed the angle of the axle just enough to put stress on the inner bearing and seals. Replacing those items is a good idea.l If you wind up taking the other side apart, you can use that axle to judge how much damage was done to the left one. Hopefully it will still be usable.
From what I can see in the pictures the inside of the rear end looks really good. Hopefully there is not any debris in the bottom and there was no metal floating around to damage the inner parts. You probably dodged a bullet there.
Good work!
While I have never seen a throw out bearing that was attached to the clutch disk, I suppose it is possible. If the bearing were supposed to be attached to the clutch, it would mean the bearing had to rotate all the time, and it wouldn’t last long.
If the tractor was stored in a wet location with the clutch pedal pushed in, it might rust together, but that would take extreme circumstances.
More likely is the bearing failed and seized up, then when it was pushed against the clutch, it welded itself to the clutch.
Please post a picture if possible. Hopefully someone with a 354 will add some information about how it is made.
Take a look at the parts list on the Circle G web site. The picture for the left housing shows a groove where the snap ring sits. This means the bearing comes off with the housing but it can’t go over the axle shaft because there is a ridge on the shaft and a washer that rides on the bearing.
Also if you look at the picture of the axle shaft and zoom in you can see the threads for the nut cut into the splines of the shaft itself.
The parts diagram on the Circle G website is actually more readable than the printed book. Plus they have actual photos of most of the parts. Very helpful!
Please take pictures as you work through this and post them for others to see.
I too learned something today. My tractor does indeed have grease zerks for the outer bearings. They were covered with a large round rubber cap that had been painted over. The caps looked like just part of the casting. Dang, I have had this tractor for 13 years with almost 800 hours and have never greased that bearing.
I hope there is a hole in the bearing outer race that gets aligned with the zerk. Something to look out for when you re-assemble it.
Also if your inner bearing really did grenade, you will want to be diligent about removing all the debris from the rear end and inspecting all of the teeth of every gear in there to make sure there was no damage.
