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I have had problems getting the proper parts too. The dealer I bought the crate tractor from was really good with parts for the first couple of years I had the tractor. Then there were personnel changes in the parts and service departments and they both went downhill terribly. I don’t even bother with them any more as they usually get the part wrong or forget to ship the order or just plain don’t know what they are talking about. It is a shame too as I really like that dealership and they had very competitive prices.
Usually I go to Circle G because they have a great online parts catalog. They seem to be on the ball and ship quickly even though they are on the high side with prices. You get what you pay for.
Hydraulic hoses and fittings are the hardest to deal with. Jinma used a wide variety of fittings and styles of connection over the years. Seems different on every other piece of equipment. Some of it is kind of standard and most of it not. Metric and European variations seem most prevalent. I currently have a miss-mash of all kinds of connections and adapters on my machines.
As I understand it, Jinma went through several variations (upgrades?) in the loader cylinders over the years and the seals are not compatible between them and they had a lot of different connection types as well. I have been lucky and not had any problems other than hoses and the BOSS seals are mostly crap and don’t last long.
OK, got it scanned and it didn’t turn out too big so it should attach here.
If not, it is on my web site and you can get to it here:
I have one I could scan into a PDF document if that works for you. I can post it on my website for you to download.
When the outer bearing went it probably changed the angle of the axle just enough to put stress on the inner bearing and seals. Replacing those items is a good idea.l If you wind up taking the other side apart, you can use that axle to judge how much damage was done to the left one. Hopefully it will still be usable.
From what I can see in the pictures the inside of the rear end looks really good. Hopefully there is not any debris in the bottom and there was no metal floating around to damage the inner parts. You probably dodged a bullet there.
Good work!
While I have never seen a throw out bearing that was attached to the clutch disk, I suppose it is possible. If the bearing were supposed to be attached to the clutch, it would mean the bearing had to rotate all the time, and it wouldn’t last long.
If the tractor was stored in a wet location with the clutch pedal pushed in, it might rust together, but that would take extreme circumstances.
More likely is the bearing failed and seized up, then when it was pushed against the clutch, it welded itself to the clutch.
Please post a picture if possible. Hopefully someone with a 354 will add some information about how it is made.
Take a look at the parts list on the Circle G web site. The picture for the left housing shows a groove where the snap ring sits. This means the bearing comes off with the housing but it can’t go over the axle shaft because there is a ridge on the shaft and a washer that rides on the bearing.
Also if you look at the picture of the axle shaft and zoom in you can see the threads for the nut cut into the splines of the shaft itself.
The parts diagram on the Circle G website is actually more readable than the printed book. Plus they have actual photos of most of the parts. Very helpful!
Please take pictures as you work through this and post them for others to see.
I too learned something today. My tractor does indeed have grease zerks for the outer bearings. They were covered with a large round rubber cap that had been painted over. The caps looked like just part of the casting. Dang, I have had this tractor for 13 years with almost 800 hours and have never greased that bearing.
I hope there is a hole in the bearing outer race that gets aligned with the zerk. Something to look out for when you re-assemble it.
Also if your inner bearing really did grenade, you will want to be diligent about removing all the debris from the rear end and inspecting all of the teeth of every gear in there to make sure there was no damage.
The parts book only shows the exploded view of the right hand side but I believe the axle is supposed to come out with the housing. The inner bearing is held onto the the axle with a snap ring that is inboard of the bearing. From the drawing it appears to be an internal snap ring that goes into a groove in the housing. If this is correct, the bearing is not a press fit in the housing.
There are two different drive gearboxes listed in my parts book. Version III and Version III (Double speed). I believe this is based on if you have a two speed PTO shaft. I’ll reference that model because that is the one I have. I think the parts for the axle are probably the same for each but the callout numbers are different.
There is a spanner nut (item 129 in my drawing, quantity 2) that appears to thread onto axle. This nut is inboard of the large 69 tooth bull gear that is splined to the axle.
There is a locking claw (number 132 in my book) that is attached to the left axle and I think it is held to the axle by circlip number 131.
I think you are going to have to take off the seat and the hydraulic tank/3 point cylinder to get to the inside of the rear end. Then take off the circlip and move the jaw out of the way so you can unscrew the spanner nut. This will allow the axle to come off with the housing so you can remove the inner snap ring to release the bearing from the housing.
I was under the impression that the axle was wet all the way out to the outer double seal but looking closer it appears that the inner bearing is wet while the outer one is lubed with a grease zerk. Now I need to go check my tractor (2006) and see if I have been neglecting a lube point. It would be interesting to know if you could leave out the inner seal and make the axle housing wet all the way out so that the outer bearing is lubed with 80W-90.
Take a look on pages 32 and 33 here http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Files/JINMA20-30A.pdf
Also here are a couple of scans from my parts manual
.5 atmospheres is 7.35 PSI
.5 Bars is 7.25 PSI
These are the only two units of measure that make any sense for .5
I know from experience that if you put a 13 PSI cap on a Jinma 284 radiator it will blow it up! You are probably safe with 6 to 8 PSI. If you don’t have a recovery system be sure to leave head space in the radiator for expansion, otherwise it just blows overboard. The factory cap on mine had a recovery system valve built into it so I added a generic bottle and filled the radiator to the top. Works perfect and easy to monitor the level without taking the cap off.
