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Is that on the suction side or pressure return side?
I would think that 25 micron would be fine. Smaller is better until you get to the point that the oil viscosity causes flow problems through the filter.
If what you originally had was the 100 mesh screen, then 25 is multiple times smaller.
Well you have done the first troubleshoot by purging the system. There are lots of other things to check/do before jumping to a failed pump conclusion. Some questions:
What is your outside temperature?
Does your tractor usually start at that temp?
Do you use glow plugs? If so have you verified that they all are working?
Are you getting sufficient fuel flow at the injectors while cranking?
Are the filters plugged?
Are you sure there is no water in the system?
When the engine fails to start is is there any smoke from the exhaust?
What color?
If you give a whiff of starting fluid into the air cleaner while cranking, what happens?
There are all kinds of things that could be causing a no start, from plugged or leaking injectors to low compression to the pump getting out of time to a bad pump drive system.
One thing that seems fairly common is the fuel cut0ff rack getting stuck in the off position. This would prevent any fuel from going to the injectors no matter how much flows into the pump.
Check these things out and post more details about what is going on when you try to start it and we can go from there.
If your are getting air into the fluid that will definitely degrade performance. Entrained air acts as little springs in the fluid and absorbs all of the pressure put out by the pump.
I would suck some fluid out of the tank and put it in a clear container. Check color and viscosity. Then run the tractor until the hydraulics fail then pull another sample to compare with the first. That should give you lots of information. Watch the second sample to see if the bubbles rise to the top and dissipate.
A seal that leaks fluid is not likely to be the source of incoming air. That can only happen on the suction side of the the system.
I am not familiar with your particular tractor but I take it to be probably made by Jinma and similar to my 284. In that case the hydraulic tank is below the seat and the 3 point piston is inside the tank. The suction line probably comes out of the tank at the front left corner and has a hard line leading forward to the pump. That is where you need to concentrate looking for a suction leak. On my tractor the tank screen is accessed by removing the suction pipe from a cast housing that is held to the tank with 3 bolts. Inside you will find a short pipe with a screen wrapped around a frame that sits near the bottom of the tank. The pipe treads into the cast iron housing from the inside. If that pipe is loose it could be sucking air there.
If there is an air leak elsewhere in the suction pipe/hose leading to the pump it is likely that it would seep fluid while the tractor sits and thus would leave a visible mark, even if it is only a collection of oily dirt.
Taking the suction screen out for inspection and cleaning is always a good idea and it will allow you to check the pickup tube to housing connection. There should be an o-ring in there, and seals at the top and bottom of the screen.
Do you have a parts manual that shows this break down? If not I can scan that page of my manual and post it on my web page so you can see it.
Would have replied earlier but could not get logged in.
If you have a front end loader it is highly likely there is a pressure relief in the control valve.
If you have power steering, there is likely to be a priority valve that may also have a relief valve.
I don’t think a hydraulic system can operate without one, otherwise the oil would just flow back to the tank and not cause any work to be done. Something has to cause pressure to build up in order to exert pressure on a cylinder somewhere else. Think of trying to blow up a balloon with a hole in the end of it.
Ah, I see it now! You have a shuttle shift, which has a different linkage.
In the online image referenced above, you will need part #26 to connect part #28 to part #25. Looking at the photos you posted I think a bit of part #25 is visible, but I can’t tell for sure.
If all you need is part #26 it is not too bad of a price, or you could probably manufacture one of your own.
Hope this helps
Finally I was able to get logged into this site after more than a month of it saying I was logged in but I couldn’t post because I wasn’t logged in!
In any case it would appear there were at least 3 different designs of the throttle on the 284.
Check out this image and see if it shows what you need:
The PTO lever and other parts are on page 30 (Drive Gearbox III) in my parts book. Pretty simple. The lever has a roll pin connecting it to the fork shaft which then slides the fork back and forth. There is a de-tent assembly on the lever where it connects to the shaft just before it goes into the housing.
If the spring or de-tent mechanism is messed up that might explain why it returns to the up position.
I would start by having a really close look at the lever to shaft connection. A bent or partially sheared roll pin could cause this condition. Punch the roll pin out to disassemble the lever and de-tent from the shaft. Once removed if you don’t see anything obvious you can check the operation by turning the shaft without the de-tent assy to see if that will disengage the PTO.
Let us know what you find.
The chipper has a lot of mass that will continue to “push” the PTO until it slows down. Mine will run for a couple of minutes (at least) after it is disengaged.
If you start the tractor and release the clutch will it spin up the chipper?
There is no fluid connection anywhere that I am aware of.
The two stage clutches can be troublesome but the PTO shaft should not turn if the lever is in Disengage.
With the tractor stopped and the lever in Disengage, can you rotate the PTO shaft by hand?
Do you have the two speed PTO?
What year is the tractor?
Pardon the confusion but I take it that your PTO is running all the time unless you step on the clutch?
The PTO lever can be pushed down into the Engage position but it springs back up to the DisEngage position on its own and the PTO keeps running?
If the above is correct there are only a couple of possibilities.
The lever is loose from the shaft (broken roll pin?)
The shaft is loose from the fork inside
The fork is bent or broken
Do you have a parts diagram?
My first instinct is that it may be a blocked vent in the fuel cap. The next time it starts to loose RPM, remove the fuel cap before it dies. If it recovers, there is your problem. If it goes ahead and dies, it is something else.
Next best guess is a plugged fuel filter. Easy and cheap to replace. Probably wouldn’t hurt anyway as they tend to get ignored. If that is the problem, you really want to open that filter and see what is plugging it. It could be the dreaded diesel bugs. In that case you need to take care of it as quickly as possible to prevent more damage. Bob Rooks has posted a lot about the bugs and how to clean up after an infestation. I sure hope that is not it.
Other things of lower probability are governor problems (an oil change there is always a good idea), air in the system, vapor lock (fuel line overheating?), and probably several others that I haven’t thought of.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
