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The only info I have is for a 2006 284. 85 Ohms full (up) and 10 ohms empty (down). If you have the same instrument in the dash it is likely these values will be the same for the 354.
An open circuit between the instrument and ground (through the sender) will cause the gauge to show full. A short circuit will show empty.
With the hot wire removed from the sender you should see about 5 volts and a full reading on the gauge. Ground that wire and it should go to empty.
Hopefully someone else will have exact numbers for your tractor, but at least this might be a starting point.
Are these valves with levers screwed onto the tubes? If so you could probably just remove them and put caps on the tubes. If you bought your tractor used it is possible that the valves were put on to replace the quick connectors. If they are common hardware store water valves they can’t take the pressure of the hydraulic system.
My Jinma 284 had quick connectors on the ends of the tubes. If they are the same as the quick connects for the FEL they are just 1/2″ pipe thread.
If your tractor is like mine the pressure relief is in the proportioning valve near the bottom of the steering column.
If possible please post a photo of these valves and point out where the fluid is leaking. That will allow us to better understand what is going on and make suggestions from there.
Didn’t Northern Tools sell these originally? If so they can probably get you a manual.
Which engine can only be answered by looking at the tag on the engine. Post a picture and we can figure that out.
Oil filter is dependent on which engine. Yes, more than likely there is a domestic equivalent. I use Fram 3600 on my Jinma 284 with a Y385 engine (2006). Buy them at Walmart.
Diesel engines make the oil look black in just a few hours of use. This is normal and can not be used as a “need to change” indicator. Hours and type of use are the easiest methods. An oil analysis is the only true way to know when your oil is used up. Unfortunately they cost about the same as an oil change so….
I have posted the owners manual and other stuff for my tractor here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
If nothing else it will give you a starting point.
I’ve heard that this is a secret society and you needed a sponsor and know the secret handshake before being admitted.
Meetings are held behind hidden tool cabinet doors that are activated by retinal scanners.
Passwords and symbols are mentioned to the UN-initiated is such ways as the unwary never catch on to what is being presented.
To protect the members, no one person can know the names of more than two others in case someone is captured and forced to talk tracks.
Shhh!
It turns clockwise about 90 degrees. When you let go it goes back down.
The fuel won’t ignite without compression so you don’t want to spin the engine more than 3 or 4 revolutions or you can flood it out. To prevent this, hold the fuel cut off in the Stop Engine position while spinning the engine.
The starter will reach maximum speed in just one or two revolutions when there is no compression. This is a great help if you have a weak battery or starter (or it is really cold outside).
With a good battery and starter using this technique will start my 284 down to about 0°F with glow plugs alone. Below that and you have to put some heat into the engine first. I have a 1000 watt tank heater that will get it up to easy starting temp in about 30 minutes unless it is -20, then I let it heat for about an hour.
Most likely a decompression lever.
Does it look like the one in this picture?
It is used to reduce compression while spinning the engine with the starter. I use mine mostly in the winter. Pull the lever and hit the starter. After the engine is rotating at speed, drop the lever so that the engine will fire up.
The capacities listed in the manual put together by an importer conflicts with the manual that came with the tractor. I believe the one labeled jinma2-30A is more accurate.
Page 9 states 5L for all engines listed. This matches full on the dipstick of mine (including new filter)
No harm done, just drop enough to get it back to full on the dipstick and the blue smoking should go away.
The breather auto drains back to the crankcase so no worries there.
As I understand it, black smoke is un-burned (too rich) fuel. Normal under load until the RPM catches up to the injectors.
Blue smoke is usually associated with burning oil. Rings or valve seals are the usual culprits here although as you found out an over full sump will do the same thing.
White smoke on cold start is normal and will go away after the engine gets to operating temps. A warm engine that smokes white may be burning coolant. Cracked head, leaking gasket,or other cause.
If your engine was neglected in the past it may have stuck rings or carbon deposits in the head. In which case it won’t hurt to have some “snake oil” in the crankcase and/or the fuel. My experiences in this area are limited to gas engines so others will probably have better advice.
Remember the 284 has a max of only 28HP when everything is new. I regularly bog my engine down, especially when plowing snow or bladeing gravel.
Yikes! Too much oil for sure. There is a crankcase breather on the right hand side of the engine just ahead of the fuse block. Round with a wing nut on top so you can clean the screen inside.
Mine takes a hair over 5qts. with a filter change.
Your compression readings seem weird. The glow plugs go into a pre-chamber in the head so if there is a restriction between the pre and main chambers it could explain the readings you got.
Carbon buildup in the heads or pre-chambers could explain your power issues too.
When the engine bogs down under power does it throw smoke out the exhaust? If so, what color?
There are a couple of manuals posted on my website here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
A quick glance through does not show the engine valve specs but I know I have them somewhere. I will keep looking and post when I find them.
As a side note, the operation manual has a section on the power steering gear on page 37.
Yeah, I could check the diode bias with a multi meter but they are so small it is easier to just flip them around than try to hold two probes in the right place while trying to hang on to that little socket.
With 50/50 odds, I only had to flip about 75% of them.
Hopefully I won’t have to replace them again, but I have plenty of spares now.
I also modified the cluster mounts so I don’t have to reach around the fuel tank to get the cluster out. I still have to make some little clamping brackets but that should be easy enough to do once I get the proper aluminum bar stock.
