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Well that is a possibility, but don’t jump to conclusions. The bubbles could just be the pump cavitation. Of course it could be a cracked head, but don’t go there either just yet.
It could be just a thermostat that is stuck open. Or if this tractor is new to you it is possible the previous owner removed the thermostat in trying to solve some other cause of temperature issues. I have seen engines overheat when the thermostat was completely removed. Seems backwards but there is an explanation for it.
Have you been loosing coolant lately? How about oil consumption?
When the engine is up to temp and you rev it up under load do you see black or white or blue smoke from the exhaust?
Drain some oil out of the engine and look for water. If none found it may not be head or block related.
Technically it is possible for a head, block or gasket problem to only leak one way into the coolant, they usually leak both ways. A good radiator pressure tester is called for here. If you don’t have one, given the possible problems you are facing it will be a cheap tool to help you out and it will be useful in the future.
Drain enough coolant to get below the thermostat housing and then check that out first. Easiest to do and cheapest to fix.
That is where I would start next.
Let us know what you find.
Best of luck.
If the exterior of the radiator is not plugged that still leaves the inside as well as your thoughts of water pump or thermostat. There could be plugging issues in the engine or hoses as well.
Try this. With the engine cold take the radiator cap off and observe the coolant level. Start the tractor and continuously watch the coolant.
Cold you should see none or very little disturbance (flow) of the coolant. As the engine warms and the thermostat opens you should see the flow increase. Also the coolant level should rise as the coolant expands from heat.
Once the engine is up to operating temp you should be seeing at least some flow and some rise in the coolant level. If the radiator is blocked the coolant is likely to overflow. If the pump or thermostat have failed you won’t see much (or any) flow.
If you suspect the radiator is plugged you can drain the coolant and remove the bottom hose. Run water from a garden hose in the filler neck and watch the flow out the bottom. This would also be a good time to remove the thermostat and have a look. I know some places say it won’t work but I have always had good luck testing thermostats in a pot of water using a thermometer to see when it opens. Just remember to stir every now and again.
If the radiator is plugged you could try a flush kit from any auto parts store. Just follow the instructions and refill with new antifreeze and distilled water. Tap water is a radiator killer.
It is unlikely that the pump has failed but it could happen. Perhaps the impellers have rusted off or have come loose from the shaft. Stranger things have happened.
I had gone as far as the hinge point of the ROPS but not to the top. It kept spitting fluid. If you look close you can see the last dose on the top of the left fender.
The real problem is the small capacity of the tank, only 2.5 gal. This is fine for steering and 3point but when you add a FEL it stretches it to the max. When pushing snow or manure piles up as high as possible when the tractor starts to climb the pile the vent spits out fluid and you don’t have to loose much to make the system start sucking air. Plus it makes a mess and is expensive to waste.
Time will tell how this works. Heading out now to do some yard work. I’ll let you know what happens.
Bob, Now that is interesting. I didn’t know they made 12 volt versions. I have used the 110 volt versions in various applications but chose the internal heater because I figured it would be more effective. Trying to heat the oil through all that cast iron from the outside takes quite a lot of energy input. However, using these as “heat loss prevention” has some merit. I have a 60A alternator so power is available.
Dave, Your idea about insulating the tank is one I have thought about, but now leads me to think about insulating the loader cylinders as they would have the greatest ability to dissipate heat. I am thinking of using PVC pipe filled with expanding foam insulation. Cut the pipe in half lengthwise and “clamshell” it onto the cylinder with some big hose clamps. Easy on and off.
Once I get a fluid recovery bottle set up so that I quit wasting fluid down the back axle housing I can put in proper (more expensive) fluid.
Thanks for the ideas guys.
Typically I run “All Season” fluid of one kind or another. Usually the cheap stuff doesn’t have any specs about weight or ISO numbers. Unfortunately I put some ISO46 in it this fall which really made things worse.
The under the seat tank is really only large enough for power steering and the 3 point. Adding the front end loader really makes me wish for more capacity in the tank. If I am working on a pile and running the front end up a ways it just blows out the vent tube and it doesn’t have to lose much to start sucking air. I have been toying with the idea of making a recovery bottle and strapping it to the ROPS frame about even with the top of the seat back.
A couple of years back I took the upper link housing off and tapped it for 1/2″ NPT. Then I installed a 125 watt oil tank heater, It really helps. I plug it in for a while before plugging in the 1000 Watt tank heater for the engine. Then after I get it started I unplug the engine heater but let the oil heater go while exercising the cylinders to get everything warmed up. It works pretty good until it gets below about -15 then the system will cool off faster than energy can be put back in by the little pump.
In ND my tractor does more work in the winter than summer so you are more likely to find a piece of cardboard in front of my radiator than a filter. 😉
I do like the filter idea though, will have to keep that in mind.
Keeping the hydraulics in the operating temp range can be really hard at -20F and a 30 MPH wind. The oil in the loader cylinders will cool down if you don’t cycle them every couple of minutes. If you dump too much cold oil back into the sump it will cool the 3 point lift down enough that it won’t raise without extra effort. Oh well, it is March, this can’t last much longer…
Well that is only 175° F so I don’t think it is too hot. I have listings for both 180° and 195° thermostat replacements. Of course we don’t know how accurate the gauges are. I suspect your temps are just fine and the thermostat is working properly.
Tire pressure is listed in kPa of 180-200 for front and rear at 100- 120 for field and 120 – 140 for transportation.
180-200 = 26 – 29 PSI
100-120 = 14.5 to 17.5 PSI
120-140 = 17.5 to 20 PSI
I usually run a little more in the front if I am doing heavy lifting with the loader or if I am working on a hard surface like asphalt. a little lower pressure gives better traction in soft dirt or snow.
hope this helps
Another question.
Does the output from your pump go directly to the steering sector at the bottom of the steering wheel shaft?
On my 284 there is a priority valve that is supposed to give the steering system priority over any other hydraulic use. If you have a priority valve and it is stuck or has failed it could be causing you problems.
Does your tractor have rear hydraulic ports? If so you could put a coupler in it and start the tractor to see if there is any oil flow there.
As mentioned before, several things could be causing your symptoms.
May i suggest loosening the output fitting on the pump enough that it starts to drip. Then start the engine and observe if there is more flow with the engine running. There should be.
If not, then the pump may not be turning or may be defective. Just because it is new doesn’t mean it works. Then work your way back to the sump. Take the suction line loose from the pump. If the pump is lower than the fluid level it should free flow at least a little fluid.
What viscosity of fluid did you use and what is the temperature there?
In cold weather it takes my Jinma 284 quite a while to warm up enough to lift the 3 point.
Let us know if you have fluid flow at the suction and pressure fittings at the pump.
True on the moisture in compressed air. Not as much of an issue this time of year depending on where you live I guess. That is why a shot of acetone or alcohol works great. Even if it picks up a few bits of water it will hold it when mixed with fuel.
Learned this trick in chemistry class after we scrubbed the glassware clean we did a final rinse with distilled water then a small shot of acetone swish and dump, water was gone and no contamination from wiping with a cloth or paper towel.
These bugs sound nasty enough that I might consider replacing all the hoses just for good measure. Hard lines are a little different. Remove and scrub with a really small bottle brush or really long pipe cleaner? What kills the bugs, bleach, acid, alkaline solution? Need something that won’t harm the pipes and hoses.
All this reminds me it is time to go to town and get a load of winter mix for the tractor…
