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Bob, Now that is interesting. I didn’t know they made 12 volt versions. I have used the 110 volt versions in various applications but chose the internal heater because I figured it would be more effective. Trying to heat the oil through all that cast iron from the outside takes quite a lot of energy input. However, using these as “heat loss prevention” has some merit. I have a 60A alternator so power is available.
Dave, Your idea about insulating the tank is one I have thought about, but now leads me to think about insulating the loader cylinders as they would have the greatest ability to dissipate heat. I am thinking of using PVC pipe filled with expanding foam insulation. Cut the pipe in half lengthwise and “clamshell” it onto the cylinder with some big hose clamps. Easy on and off.
Once I get a fluid recovery bottle set up so that I quit wasting fluid down the back axle housing I can put in proper (more expensive) fluid.
Thanks for the ideas guys.
Typically I run “All Season” fluid of one kind or another. Usually the cheap stuff doesn’t have any specs about weight or ISO numbers. Unfortunately I put some ISO46 in it this fall which really made things worse.
The under the seat tank is really only large enough for power steering and the 3 point. Adding the front end loader really makes me wish for more capacity in the tank. If I am working on a pile and running the front end up a ways it just blows out the vent tube and it doesn’t have to lose much to start sucking air. I have been toying with the idea of making a recovery bottle and strapping it to the ROPS frame about even with the top of the seat back.
A couple of years back I took the upper link housing off and tapped it for 1/2″ NPT. Then I installed a 125 watt oil tank heater, It really helps. I plug it in for a while before plugging in the 1000 Watt tank heater for the engine. Then after I get it started I unplug the engine heater but let the oil heater go while exercising the cylinders to get everything warmed up. It works pretty good until it gets below about -15 then the system will cool off faster than energy can be put back in by the little pump.
In ND my tractor does more work in the winter than summer so you are more likely to find a piece of cardboard in front of my radiator than a filter. 😉
I do like the filter idea though, will have to keep that in mind.
Keeping the hydraulics in the operating temp range can be really hard at -20F and a 30 MPH wind. The oil in the loader cylinders will cool down if you don’t cycle them every couple of minutes. If you dump too much cold oil back into the sump it will cool the 3 point lift down enough that it won’t raise without extra effort. Oh well, it is March, this can’t last much longer…
Well that is only 175° F so I don’t think it is too hot. I have listings for both 180° and 195° thermostat replacements. Of course we don’t know how accurate the gauges are. I suspect your temps are just fine and the thermostat is working properly.
Tire pressure is listed in kPa of 180-200 for front and rear at 100- 120 for field and 120 – 140 for transportation.
180-200 = 26 – 29 PSI
100-120 = 14.5 to 17.5 PSI
120-140 = 17.5 to 20 PSI
I usually run a little more in the front if I am doing heavy lifting with the loader or if I am working on a hard surface like asphalt. a little lower pressure gives better traction in soft dirt or snow.
hope this helps
Another question.
Does the output from your pump go directly to the steering sector at the bottom of the steering wheel shaft?
On my 284 there is a priority valve that is supposed to give the steering system priority over any other hydraulic use. If you have a priority valve and it is stuck or has failed it could be causing you problems.
Does your tractor have rear hydraulic ports? If so you could put a coupler in it and start the tractor to see if there is any oil flow there.
As mentioned before, several things could be causing your symptoms.
May i suggest loosening the output fitting on the pump enough that it starts to drip. Then start the engine and observe if there is more flow with the engine running. There should be.
If not, then the pump may not be turning or may be defective. Just because it is new doesn’t mean it works. Then work your way back to the sump. Take the suction line loose from the pump. If the pump is lower than the fluid level it should free flow at least a little fluid.
What viscosity of fluid did you use and what is the temperature there?
In cold weather it takes my Jinma 284 quite a while to warm up enough to lift the 3 point.
Let us know if you have fluid flow at the suction and pressure fittings at the pump.
True on the moisture in compressed air. Not as much of an issue this time of year depending on where you live I guess. That is why a shot of acetone or alcohol works great. Even if it picks up a few bits of water it will hold it when mixed with fuel.
Learned this trick in chemistry class after we scrubbed the glassware clean we did a final rinse with distilled water then a small shot of acetone swish and dump, water was gone and no contamination from wiping with a cloth or paper towel.
These bugs sound nasty enough that I might consider replacing all the hoses just for good measure. Hard lines are a little different. Remove and scrub with a really small bottle brush or really long pipe cleaner? What kills the bugs, bleach, acid, alkaline solution? Need something that won’t harm the pipes and hoses.
All this reminds me it is time to go to town and get a load of winter mix for the tractor…
Good advice from Bob. I think it is only a 4 gallon tank held down with two straps. You will probably have to at least loosen the instrument portion of the hood to get it out. Once out you can pressure wash it or rinse it out to get the bulk of the crud out.
I would then get a length of small chain at least a couple of feet long and put in the tank. Then block off the openings and fill half way with water and some Dawn dish soap. Cap it off and shake, rattle, and roll your way to cleanliness. You may have to do that a few times. Once it appears clean inside, rinse thoroughly with clean hot water.
Use compressed air to blast out as much water as possible then you can pour in some acetone and “swish and spit” a few times to get rid of any left over water. Pure alcohol will do the same as it will absorb water up to about 10%. Then some more compressed air sh0uld do the trick. (don’t forget to recover the chain).
Put back in tractor and ready to go.
Since I have not had the pleasure of diesel bugs, Bob do you have to do anything to clean the inside of the hoses and pipes? New filters all around for sure!
Will the bugs pass through a filter?
Factory tach or after market?
There are optical tachometers available. You could put something shiny on the fan blade and register off of that. You have to make sure the crankshaft and fan pulleys were the same size or do some math.
You might also be able to use an A/C powered florescent light in a dark location to see if you can get the strobe effect going on the fan. Put a mark on one of the blades (or crankshaft pulley) and adjust the throttle until the mark appears to stand still. The RPM will be a multiple of the 60Hz A/C current so it should strobe still at 600 RPM and at other multiples too.
At least I think the math is right, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
That should be sufficient. When really cold (-20 or more) my glow plugs will pull close to 30 amps but that quickly reduces as they heat up. The 12ga wire can handle that much load for a short time but the fuse won’t so if you start popping fuses you will know for sure.
From the factory the glow plug current ran through the ammeter and the key switch. When I installed a solenoid for the glow plugs I wired it so the key switch only carried the current for the solenoid but pulled the glow plug current from the ammeter side so I could still monitor the draw. Done this way, if a glow plug burns out you will be able to see it in the reduced current.
I used either 12ga or 10ga wire, don’t remember which. It was a lot bigger than the original that is for sure!
