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Good advice from Bob. I think it is only a 4 gallon tank held down with two straps. You will probably have to at least loosen the instrument portion of the hood to get it out. Once out you can pressure wash it or rinse it out to get the bulk of the crud out.
I would then get a length of small chain at least a couple of feet long and put in the tank. Then block off the openings and fill half way with water and some Dawn dish soap. Cap it off and shake, rattle, and roll your way to cleanliness. You may have to do that a few times. Once it appears clean inside, rinse thoroughly with clean hot water.
Use compressed air to blast out as much water as possible then you can pour in some acetone and “swish and spit” a few times to get rid of any left over water. Pure alcohol will do the same as it will absorb water up to about 10%. Then some more compressed air sh0uld do the trick. (don’t forget to recover the chain).
Put back in tractor and ready to go.
Since I have not had the pleasure of diesel bugs, Bob do you have to do anything to clean the inside of the hoses and pipes? New filters all around for sure!
Will the bugs pass through a filter?
Factory tach or after market?
There are optical tachometers available. You could put something shiny on the fan blade and register off of that. You have to make sure the crankshaft and fan pulleys were the same size or do some math.
You might also be able to use an A/C powered florescent light in a dark location to see if you can get the strobe effect going on the fan. Put a mark on one of the blades (or crankshaft pulley) and adjust the throttle until the mark appears to stand still. The RPM will be a multiple of the 60Hz A/C current so it should strobe still at 600 RPM and at other multiples too.
At least I think the math is right, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
That should be sufficient. When really cold (-20 or more) my glow plugs will pull close to 30 amps but that quickly reduces as they heat up. The 12ga wire can handle that much load for a short time but the fuse won’t so if you start popping fuses you will know for sure.
From the factory the glow plug current ran through the ammeter and the key switch. When I installed a solenoid for the glow plugs I wired it so the key switch only carried the current for the solenoid but pulled the glow plug current from the ammeter side so I could still monitor the draw. Done this way, if a glow plug burns out you will be able to see it in the reduced current.
I used either 12ga or 10ga wire, don’t remember which. It was a lot bigger than the original that is for sure!
Winter before last the 3rd glow plug died so when I replaced them all at the same time I went ahead and wired in a solenoid. It was really easy to do. I tapped the power off of the ammeter and used that to feed the glow plugs through the solenoid using an adequate sized wire instead of that skinny stuff from the factory. That way I could see the power draw on the meter and that will tell me if the plugs are working or not. The original glow plug output from the switch was routed to the “trigger” side of the solenoid. This way the key and ammeter still work as originally designed but the high current draw avoids the key switch. This is the original key switch on my 2007 tractor and it has had hard glow plug use for 10 years before I got around to this upgrade.
From an old list it would appear that two different oil filters were used.
20mm JXD706P translates to NAPA 1626 or Fram PH3935 or WIX51381
3/4″ JXD707P crosses to NAPA 1516 or Fram 3600 (Mine uses this)
Fuel filter CXD706 (marked CX0706 on filter) crosses to NAPA 3195 or Fram P6503
Air filter 385T-1-1500 is NAPA FIL2276 or WIX42276 or Donaldson P181050 (Mine uses this)
Hope this helps
Dang it, just barely too big. I posted it on my web site here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
Do you know what year it is? There should be an ID plate on the rear fender with serial number and production date.
Mine was made in October of 2006. I may have some of the filter information you need if yours is close to the same age.
That being said, who knows if there were changes in the middle of a particular year?
I haven’t looked at the threads of the sending units for temp and pressure. Probably the only way to know for sure is to take them off and measure. On mine at least the coolant drain valve on the left side of the engine block turned out to actually be standard NPT. Shocked the heck out of me but made replacing the valve a piece of cake!
Since all of your instruments are dead, I would first check fuses, then follow wires. Other possibilities include bad ground and bad key switch. The key switch is a known weak point on these tractors. There is a Ford part number that serves as a replacement for a lot of them.
Do the instrument cluster lights come on? If they don’t it may not mean anything but if they do it would be good news for the ground connection of the instrument cluster.
Oil pressure, amp meter and water temp should be easy if you can get the correct sending units. Tachometer, hour meter and fuel level will be harder to accomplish. On mine the tach is electronic and feeds off of a hall effect type pickup on the flywheel. Finding something that can properly count the pulses might be difficult.
Any auto parts store such as NAPA or Pep Boys will have one. Same for farm stores like TSC, Runnings, etc. Big box stores too like WalMart, Lowes or Menard’s.
I bought mine at either WalMart or Menard’s. Whoever had the best price at the time.
Even the nearest Caterpillar dealer will have one. It will cost more, but will be a superior battery.
Just take the old battery in with you so you can compare sizes and terminal locations. You will need it to save the core charge anyway. Don’t bother telling them what it is for, they won’t be able to look it up that way.
