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Sounds like the lift pump may not be working. Also sounds like the governor is not working. Since these share a common oil sump I would check the oil in the governor. If it has been a while, just go ahead and change it. It only holds a few ounces. Be sure to save the old oil so you can examine it for fuel contamination.
Let us know what you find. This could be interesting…
Just went through something similar with my Jinma 284. Turned out that the main contacts inside the solenoid were burned/worn just enough to cause high resistance. This in turn kept the motor from turning.
Solution was to remove and dismantle the solenoid. Some soldering required. Once inside I cleaned the contacts on a wire wheel and re-installed. Lubed all the proper places while the starter was apart just for good measure. After 600 hours in 11 years I chalked it up as routine maintenance.
As always on any vehicle, make sure all wiring connections are clean and tight. Especially the ground circuits.
Bob,
That is interesting about the blue fuel. Around here (upper prairies) all we ever see is clear or red. Don’t get caught with traces of red in you on road vehicle!
Did you change the fuel filter and clean the sediment bowl when you drained the tank? Did you clean the tank or just drain it out?
Cream color could indicate water or air in the fuel. Try draining some out into a clear (clean) container and let it sit. If it is air it should clear up after sitting undisturbed a few days. If it is water, it should separate out after a while.
Have you checked the radiator to see if the coolant is clean? I don’t know of any way coolant could get into the fuel system.
Have you checked the engine oil to see what it looks like and if the level has changed?
Have you checked the oil in the injection pump? My injection pump leaks fuel into the crankcase of the pump. Not a lot but I suppose it could go the other way if the circumstances were right. In any case, I just change the pump oil when I change engine oil and leave the overflow uncapped so any excess can drain out.
It sounds like you are using un-dyed road fuel. Do you know what grade it is? #1 or some kind of winter blend? Maybe an additive issue?
If you can’t find the source, your only choice will be to thoroughly clean everything in the fuel system at the same time. Don’t forget to clean the tank or can you transport and store with either. Then start over with fresh fuel. I would add a biocide to make sure you don’t get diesel bugs.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Bob,
Your advice was spot on. There is a directory link at the top of the CTOA web page that used to show a list of dealers but the link has been dead for quite some time.
The web site parts listings are somewhat lacking at some of the dealerships. Of course the parts manuals from Jinma have the same problem. Sometimes it takes some digging to get the right parts.
Other sources that I use are http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ and http://www.clearwaterhydraulics.com. They have adapters and fittings that some dealers don’t even understand.
To the original poster, are you looking for something unusual that these dealers don’t have in stock? Anything specific that we can help you find?
Additional info: The two types listed in my parts book are listed as II and III. What was design I?
I found a different diagram here:
Since there is no number designation I am guessing it was the first design. This setup did use a compression spring to apply friction to the hand lever. This was a completely different design than the later two and was apparently for a shuttle shift setup.
There is a small foot throttle return spring on mine (type III) that is not listed in the parts book. It would have no effect on the hand throttle. There is a cushion plate # 184.20.107 that provides friction to the lever.
Guitarman,
Not exactly sure what you are asking. The hand throttle sets the engine speed and pulls the foot throttle along with it. The foot throttle can then be used to increase the engine speed and when released it will return to the speed set by the hand throttle. Please explain what you need accomplished.
Tinbender,
My tractor exactly. The parts book indicates they used two slightly different setups. From what I can tell, one has a full sized foot pedal hinged on the floorboard and the other has a small foot pad attached to a rod that is “free floating”. I have illustrations of both that I can scan and post. Neither have any springs in the system. I have the second type and when the hand throttle got to the point that it would not stay where I put it I tightened the double nut on the bolt that holds the chromed hand throttle to the tractor. This added enough friction to hold it in place.
I can also take pictures if you would like.
Hope this helps.
I doubt you will find metric quick connects, at least in the sizes/styles (there are many different ones) needed. Most likely you will have to go with an adapter of some sort. At one point I found an adapter for the pressure side, but not one for the suction side. I had considered having a custom flange fitting made for where it attaches to the pump, but then couldn’t figure out how to convert back to the filter housing on the tank.
The filter housings are steel, maybe cast iron. Perhaps if I bought a second one for experimentation, I could braze (or weld) an SAE end on it. Could probably make something out of steel for the pump end since it is low pressure, maybe just a gasket for a seal instead of the o-ring used from the factory…..
Hmmm, need some shop time! Been several years since I looked at any of that stuff.
Clearwater Hydraulics in ID is a good place to start. Discount Hydraulics is another good source for odd-ball stuff.
Yes, the hardest part about mounting and un-mounting the backhoe is dealing with the hydraulic pump. Especially when you keep the transmission fluid level above the bottom of the pump cover plate.
I have tried for years to figure out a better solution. Even went so far as to buy a PTO driven pump only to find out it was about a half inch too long to get the backhoe in place.
I think it would make most sense to put a quick connect on the suction line at the tank end. Then on the pressure hose, maybe have a short hose from the pump and a quick connect near the tank area on the other side. (would probably require two new hoses) That way you could mount the pump and hoses before you back up to the backhoe.
If I remember right, the pump only turns when the PTO is engaged but putting the 540/1000 lever in neutral does not stop the pump from turning. Otherwise I would probably leave the pump on the tractor all the time. A way to stop the pump but use the PTO shaft would be the best solution.
Let us know if you figure anything out.
Remember the fit and finish even when new is probably no where near what you would expect. Yet they run and survive. Kind of a testament to modern oils.
How many hours on that engine? It will be interesting to compare the appearance of new bearings with the old. Also once you get new bearings you can check the clearance and get a better idea of how much wear there is. Do you have specs for new and service clearances?
It doesn’t look all that bad in there and the tractor looks to be in good shape too.
