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Here is a picture of the tank heater I installed. A lot simpler and more effective than a lower radiator hose one.
Water comes out of the bottom of the block at the drain valve, goes through the heater and back into the top of the engine just below the thermostat. Circulation is all inside the block and not wasted in the radiator. This one is 1000 watts and heats a -20°F engine to melting snow in about 30 minutes.
I made some changes after this was taken because the drain valve failed. Turned out the block was standard SAE pipe thread so the fix was easy.
Yeah, those are older pictures from way back when I put it together out of the crate. At 11 years and 600 hours it doesn’t look that nice any more.
Mine is a little loud, but it is a diesel from China! I am still on the original battery although it is getting week this fall and the new one is in the shop. I have never had any battery go 11 years.
Injector pumps have a couple of known issues. The seal between the pump crankcase and the lift pump likes to leak diesel into the crankcase and that dilutes the oil that is shared with the governor. They can also leak fuel from the injector pump pistons. Mine has done both. I just put in new oil when I change the engine oil which is usually somewhere between 50 and 100 hours.
Here is the throttle parts for the 284. Apparently there were two different variations during the production run but the decompression is about the same for each. Your tractor may be exactly the same or something different entirely.
I have the Y385 engine.
Here is a picture of the decompression lever and one of where it goes towards the engine. Your may have been removed at some point and all you need is the parts. Speaking of parts, did you find a parts manual?
I like the decompression feature for two reasons. If it has been more than a week since the tractor was used, I like to hold the fuel cutoff and the decompression at the same time and spin the engine until I get oil pressure built up and then for another 5 to 10 seconds. This acts as a pre-oil to minimize wear at startup. Second, for really cold starts or weak battery conditions. If you use the decompression for the first couple of revolutions when you hit the starter it lets the crankshaft and flywheel get up to speed easier. Then when you drop the lever that inertia helps the starter motor against the compression stroke.
I can take better pictures of it and scan the parts page if you would like.
I am a little surprised you don’t have a decompression lever. Look on the back of the rocker cover to see if you have the mechanism circled in yellow.
My 2007 (built in 2006) has the creeper (or crawler) hi/lo that yours does not. That may be a difference between the models or it may have been an option that was not built into your tractor. Not all farm tractors have transfer or hi/lo speed selectors. Some do, some don’t. My 284 has 12 forward and 4 reverse speeds using the two transfer cases in various combinations. However you have the “shuttle shift” and I don’t. For doing loader work it is a great benefit because you can flip back and forth without shifting the transmission. I wish my 284 had that feature when moving snow.
As for shifting gears. Most tractors with manual transmissions don’t have a synchronous gear set, so you don’t up-shift on the move. You come to a compete stop before shifting to avoid grinding the gears.
Decompression levers are nice to have but not a complete necessity. Do you have the two or three cylinder engine?
Just a few ideas of where to start.
How is the filter in the tank?
If you take the suction hose off at the pump will oil flow out of the hose?
If you take the pressure hose off at the pump, will oil flow out on it’s own? How about with the engine running and the PTO engaged?
Are you sure the tang on the pump is connecting with the slot in the tractor?
Have you checked the shaft in the tractor to make sure it is turning with the PTO engaged and the engine running?
Also, with the PTO engaged and the engine turned off, you should not be able to turn the end of the shaft that engages the tang on the pump. If you can, something in the tractor is broke.
Nope, already checked that. No fluid came out.
The feel on the pedal is more like the pressure plates are not rotating smoothly. I suspect rust or other corrosion on the plates or balls. Another possibility is a broken pressure plate spring.
I won’t know until I get it apart.
Diesel getting into the governor portion of the injector pump does not necessarily mean the injector pump is bad.
When this happened to me I determined that the fuel was coming from the lift pump actuator pin seal. I replaced the seal and it only lasted a few hours. I removed the lift pump and made a cover plate for the hole. There was an electric pulse pump sitting on my shelf so I plumbed that in and connected it to the fuse block on a circuit that is hot only with the key on.
Works fine and there has been no fuel in the governor section since then. $40 for a lift pump vs. $500+ for an injection pump.
Ah Ha!
This is pretty much what I had pictured in my mind based on the parts book drawings. This helps clear it up.
Based on the feel at the pedals I suspect there is rust/corrosion in the area where the balls contact the plates. Possibly a broken spring or two.
I am guessing there is no lube on any of the pivot points or the balls/ramps. I am guessing that some kind of lube would be a good idea for sliding metal parts.
What do you think would be best, a light coat of wheel bearing grease or a white grease like lubriplate?
Did you have to take the whole housing off to get these out or will they come out the end plate?
Thanks!
