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without knowing how you are posting replies, I can’t give you detailed instructions.
However, if you are using a PC and logging on to the web site, then you will be typing a reply in a box near the bottom of the page that this thread is on. Below the box will be the emoji’s, a box to check if you want to be Notified of replies via email and a warning about Maximum file size allowed is 1000 KB.
Below that is
Attachments:
And a Browse button.
You click on the browse button then you navigate the files of your computer to find the picture you want to attach and click on that. It will take a minute or two to upload, then your picture will appear on the forum with your message once you click the Submit button.
You have to be sure that your photo is less than 1 MB in size. There are many ways to reduce the size of a photo depending on what operating system you have and what software you may have on your PC.
Hope this helps.
According to my manual there were drum brakes like you describe but the ones on my tractor are disc brakes. A different configuration. I have never seen anything quite like this before and have only the images in the manual to go by. I won’t know for sure about the expander ball part of it until I get it apart. Drum brakes I understand, disc brakes on vehicles I understand, these, not so much….
If it is spitting fluid out until it gets low about the only thing it could be is introduction of air into the fluid. This would indicate a suction side leak where it is sucking air into the pump. Once the fluid gets back to the tank the pressure drop causes the air to bubble out and that causes foaming which pushes out of the vent tube.
You could try putting a clear hose on the vent tube and run it up along the roll bar so that you can see the fluid. If the tank is simply over full the fluid will be solid but if it is foaming you will see bubbles in the hose.
What indicator are you using for the fill level? On my 284 there is a dipstick in the filler plug (which also contains the vent tube). The dipstick has a grove in it to indicate the fill line. Your 184 may be different. Do you fill the tank with the 3-poing and loader lowered to the ground? If not, it my overflow the tank when you do.
Oh, one more thought.
It could be that the loader control valve is dumping all the output from the pump back into the tank and there is not enough pressure to actuate the hitch.
Does the power steering still work? There probably is a priority valve that makes sure steering actuates before other hydraulics.
Here is a trick I use to get the hydraulic fluid flowing faster in the winter.
Raise the loader all the way up, then with one hand hold the 3 point lever in the raise position while lowering the loader with the other hand. On my 284 this seems to help force fluid into the hitch when it is cold. Don’t know if this will help your system or not, but it certainly won’t hurt to try and might give you some clues as to where the problem is.
Not positive about your tractor but if I remember right, the 3 point piston pushes on an actuator rod that connects to the rocker arm that lifts the hitch. The cylinder can only push “up” on the hitch and relies on the weight of the hitch to push it back “down”. It is a one way cylinder and that is the reason there is no down pressure available for the hitch. Since the actuator only rests on the piston you can pick up the hitch (and rocker arm and attached internal actuator rod) without the cylinder actually moving. That would explain the low resistance feel you had.
The adjuster knob is used to control how fast the fluid moves out of cylinder when you put the control valve in the lower position. Basically just a needle valve that you can open to allow the cylinder to drain faster or slower. It should have no effect on how fast the hitch goes up.
Since the problem started when the loader was put on and you have quick connects, take the loader out of the circuit and try the 3 point to see if it goes up. If not, the loader probably has nothing to do with it.
Depends are you selling or buying? Also where are you located? How old is it? Front end loader?
After checking all of the electrical connections, try getting the engine to turn, at least a little. Pry bar on the front crank pulley or put it in gear and rock the rear wheel with a board or something. It is possible that the bendix is just jammed against the flywheel and rotating the crankshaft a little will free it. It is also possible that the starter armature is just sitting in a “dead” spot that it can’t turn itself out of.
The next step is to pull the starter. Fortunately it is easy to do. Then some bench testing will show you what is wrong if indeed it is the starter.
Have you done a load test on the battery? If you don’t have a load tester put a voltmeter on it and make sure it has at least 12.5 volts with everything turned off. Then watch the voltage while you turn the key to attempt a start. If it drops below 10 volts, the battery may be the culprit.
Have you tried a jump start?
That is fantastic! A simple fix that only costs a little time is the best fix.
Thank you for posting the solution. You may never know how many others it will help.
:yahoo:
Looking back at the original post, have you tried looking at the online parts catalogs of a Jinma dealer to see if you can find the exhaust part that looks like yours? If you are sure that it came from a different model Jinma once you find something that looks right, one of the dealer/sponsors of this list may be able to get actual dimensions for you. If you can take a picture of the part you are looking for and post it that should help a lot.
Agreed. I wasn’t thinking of bending the schedule 40 stuff but rather trying to find a pre-made elbow or two that could be welded together to get the needed configuration, then weld the flanges to that.
Luckily around here there are a few custom machine/welding shops that carry a lot of different steel products and are very good at “in the field” engineering. If we think up something they don’t have supplies on hand for, they can usually get them in a day or two.
EMT can be problematic to weld in the smaller configurations. Never having messed with anything larger than about 1″, I am guessing that the wall thickness increases with the diameter so that something in the 2″ range may be quite easy to weld. Just beware of ventilation when welding galvanized items.
I am sure something can be fabricated once the right parts are located. I always enjoy these kinds of projects if I’m not under time pressures.
