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Nope, already checked that. No fluid came out.
The feel on the pedal is more like the pressure plates are not rotating smoothly. I suspect rust or other corrosion on the plates or balls. Another possibility is a broken pressure plate spring.
I won’t know until I get it apart.
Diesel getting into the governor portion of the injector pump does not necessarily mean the injector pump is bad.
When this happened to me I determined that the fuel was coming from the lift pump actuator pin seal. I replaced the seal and it only lasted a few hours. I removed the lift pump and made a cover plate for the hole. There was an electric pulse pump sitting on my shelf so I plumbed that in and connected it to the fuse block on a circuit that is hot only with the key on.
Works fine and there has been no fuel in the governor section since then. $40 for a lift pump vs. $500+ for an injection pump.
Ah Ha!
This is pretty much what I had pictured in my mind based on the parts book drawings. This helps clear it up.
Based on the feel at the pedals I suspect there is rust/corrosion in the area where the balls contact the plates. Possibly a broken spring or two.
I am guessing there is no lube on any of the pivot points or the balls/ramps. I am guessing that some kind of lube would be a good idea for sliding metal parts.
What do you think would be best, a light coat of wheel bearing grease or a white grease like lubriplate?
Did you have to take the whole housing off to get these out or will they come out the end plate?
Thanks!
without knowing how you are posting replies, I can’t give you detailed instructions.
However, if you are using a PC and logging on to the web site, then you will be typing a reply in a box near the bottom of the page that this thread is on. Below the box will be the emoji’s, a box to check if you want to be Notified of replies via email and a warning about Maximum file size allowed is 1000 KB.
Below that is
Attachments:
And a Browse button.
You click on the browse button then you navigate the files of your computer to find the picture you want to attach and click on that. It will take a minute or two to upload, then your picture will appear on the forum with your message once you click the Submit button.
You have to be sure that your photo is less than 1 MB in size. There are many ways to reduce the size of a photo depending on what operating system you have and what software you may have on your PC.
Hope this helps.
According to my manual there were drum brakes like you describe but the ones on my tractor are disc brakes. A different configuration. I have never seen anything quite like this before and have only the images in the manual to go by. I won’t know for sure about the expander ball part of it until I get it apart. Drum brakes I understand, disc brakes on vehicles I understand, these, not so much….
If it is spitting fluid out until it gets low about the only thing it could be is introduction of air into the fluid. This would indicate a suction side leak where it is sucking air into the pump. Once the fluid gets back to the tank the pressure drop causes the air to bubble out and that causes foaming which pushes out of the vent tube.
You could try putting a clear hose on the vent tube and run it up along the roll bar so that you can see the fluid. If the tank is simply over full the fluid will be solid but if it is foaming you will see bubbles in the hose.
What indicator are you using for the fill level? On my 284 there is a dipstick in the filler plug (which also contains the vent tube). The dipstick has a grove in it to indicate the fill line. Your 184 may be different. Do you fill the tank with the 3-poing and loader lowered to the ground? If not, it my overflow the tank when you do.
Oh, one more thought.
It could be that the loader control valve is dumping all the output from the pump back into the tank and there is not enough pressure to actuate the hitch.
Does the power steering still work? There probably is a priority valve that makes sure steering actuates before other hydraulics.
Here is a trick I use to get the hydraulic fluid flowing faster in the winter.
Raise the loader all the way up, then with one hand hold the 3 point lever in the raise position while lowering the loader with the other hand. On my 284 this seems to help force fluid into the hitch when it is cold. Don’t know if this will help your system or not, but it certainly won’t hurt to try and might give you some clues as to where the problem is.
Not positive about your tractor but if I remember right, the 3 point piston pushes on an actuator rod that connects to the rocker arm that lifts the hitch. The cylinder can only push “up” on the hitch and relies on the weight of the hitch to push it back “down”. It is a one way cylinder and that is the reason there is no down pressure available for the hitch. Since the actuator only rests on the piston you can pick up the hitch (and rocker arm and attached internal actuator rod) without the cylinder actually moving. That would explain the low resistance feel you had.
The adjuster knob is used to control how fast the fluid moves out of cylinder when you put the control valve in the lower position. Basically just a needle valve that you can open to allow the cylinder to drain faster or slower. It should have no effect on how fast the hitch goes up.
Since the problem started when the loader was put on and you have quick connects, take the loader out of the circuit and try the 3 point to see if it goes up. If not, the loader probably has nothing to do with it.
