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Just tossing out some ideas.
Standard exhaust pipe is fairly thin so that it can be easily bent to any shape needed. That leads to a shorter life span. Perhaps a heavier walled pipe would be appropriate in this application. Does it have to support the muffler without any other brackets? This piece still has a flange on each end? Post a picture of the current setup if available.
Maybe you could use standard plumbing pipe fittings welded into the shape you need and with the flanges welded onto each end. The flanges themselves should be fairly straight forward to manufacture out of plate steel. Schedule 40 pipe fittings might be overkill but they should last forever. 🙂
Steel pipe that is thicker walled than exhaust tube but thinner than schedule 40 stuff should be able to be bent into shape, but if not, it can be cut and welded at the corners. More tedious to make but more flexible in design.
Speaking of flexible, a lot of modern vehicles use a braided flex pipe from the header to the main exhaust pipe or sometimes all the way to the catalytic converter. It might take a lot of searching, but there might be something out there that would work for you. The problem would then become how to support the muffler with some kind of bracket.
Good info. By swapping the hoses and having the problem move to the tilt cylinders, you have eliminated the hoses and the cylinders. This also vindicates the quick couplers, although I would have thought that if they were the problem, all cylinders in the loader would be having the same problem at the same time.
As for what is wrong in the control valve, I suspect you will have to open it up to see. I don’t know about your valve, but the factory one on my 284 was less than desirable and I opted to replace it with the one from Ranch Hand Supply. This allowed me to get a float position and to add future functions using a power beyond port. The increased sensitivity and fine control over loader movements was well worth the investment.
You might consider going this route before tearing into your existing valve. I never opened up my old one as it did function and it now sits in the shop as a backup guarantee that nothing will ever happen to my good valve. Just a talisman to ward off the “Murphy” evil spirit. 😉
Maybe someone who has taken one of these valves apart will be able to help with that.
Doesn’t sound like a pump or flow problem if the other parts are working normally.
Does it sound like the relief valve is opening? The same sound as it makes when the cylinder hits the end of its travel?
Since it takes more force to lift the loader than to roll the bucket do you know if the bucket or 3 point still have normal power? Will the FEL lift the front of the tractor off the ground?
If so, I would suspect a plugged control valve or perhaps a hose that is collapsed internally. Rare, but it can happen.
You could swap the lift cylinder hoses at the valve and maybe figure out if the problem follows the lift or lower side of the circuit. IF that doesn’t tell you anything, you could swap the bucket and lift cylinder hoses at the valve. If the problem stays with the lift cylinders, it would indicate the hose/cylinder and vindicate the valve. However if the bucket starts rolling slowly, it would indicate the valve has a problem.
Let us know what you find.
And there is your answer. It is worth $200 not $2000 the owner is asking.
Another question would be could it be parted out for a different value?
If I were the owner looking to sell and it was worth $200 at the junk yard I would be happy to have someone come take it off my hands for the same or a little more. ($250).
Next question: would the old tractor with a new engine be worth $7750? Probably not.
However, if your situation allows, IF you can get it for say $250 and can store it, then you can keep an eye out for a tractor that is broken but has a good engine…..
Try these guys. If nothing else, they may be able to custom make the hose you need.
http://www.clearwaterhydraulics.com/index.php/
Hit send too soon:
The red hose is where the bucket drain hose used to be. You can see the injection pump to the left and the oil level dip stick to the right. If you look behind the hose clamp on the red hose, you can see the black handle attached to the valve with a cotter key. The valve itself was made of brass and had a short nipple sticking out that the hose was stuck onto.
This was a 2006 built Jinma 284. Everything was painted black on the engine. I may have the old valve and can easily take pictures of it or the engine if you need to see more.
What year is your engine? It may not be the same.
It is on the left side of the engine (viewed from the tractor seat).
Mine had a valve screwed into the block with a handle that stuck up a short ways. There was a molded rubber hose that hung down from the valve which was handy to direct the flow into a bucket.
In the picture I have removed the drop down hose and attached a hose that leads to a tank heater that I installed. I have since changed this configuration as the original valve started leaking. The block was actually tapped with a standard English pipe thread so it was really easy to find a replacement.
Not exactly sure of the setup on your 254. I have an ’06 284 which should be similar. According to the parts manual there were a couple of different designs back then. The parts book is not real clear but it looks like the original design had the steering cylinder on the left side of the tractor running front to back. There is no indication how it is mounted. I believe the later and more common design was to have the cylinder mounted on the back side of the front axle. One end is attached to the left wheel with a ball joint. The right side of the cylinder is mounted on a stud welded to a plate. The plate is bolted to the axle while the cylinder is held onto the stud with a bolt. Here again the parts diagram leaves something to be desired.
Post a picture of your setup if you can. Otherwise I can post a picture of mine and you can see if it looks familiar.
There are lots of specifications for different types of oils/fluids depending on what they are used for. I wouldn’t worry so much whether the label says oil or fluid as I would be about the characteristics of said product and its suitability for my intended purpose.
Without getting too deep into it, for the most part there are two basic types of hydraulic fluids. One that is just for hydraulic systems and a different type for systems where the transmission and hydraulic system shares the same fluid.
If you let us know what tractor you have and what fluid you need for it we can find the correct one for you to use. Also, where do you live and what temperatures are you likely to be operating in?
When the lever is set at Disengage the differential in the rear axle does its normal function. That is it lets one wheel turn faster than the other so that you can make tight turns without binding or dragging one wheel. (In a turn the outer wheel must travel farther than the inner wheel, so it has to turn faster).
When you Engage the differential lock lever it slides a set of dogs together and locks the differential. This causes both wheels to turn together. This is useful when you are going straight forward and one wheel begins to slip (spin). This is caused by more traction on one side than the other. The down side of a differential is that once one wheel starts to spin, there is virtually no force applied to the non-spinning wheel. By locking the differential you cause both wheels to have force applied to them. That way the wheel that still has traction can pull you out of your situation. Once you are in a place where both wheels have traction again, you want to dis-engage the lock.
Don’t use the lock while turning, especially if both wheels have good traction, it can cause things to break inside the axle.
Clear as mud?
