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Not exactly sure of the setup on your 254. I have an ’06 284 which should be similar. According to the parts manual there were a couple of different designs back then. The parts book is not real clear but it looks like the original design had the steering cylinder on the left side of the tractor running front to back. There is no indication how it is mounted. I believe the later and more common design was to have the cylinder mounted on the back side of the front axle. One end is attached to the left wheel with a ball joint. The right side of the cylinder is mounted on a stud welded to a plate. The plate is bolted to the axle while the cylinder is held onto the stud with a bolt. Here again the parts diagram leaves something to be desired.
Post a picture of your setup if you can. Otherwise I can post a picture of mine and you can see if it looks familiar.
There are lots of specifications for different types of oils/fluids depending on what they are used for. I wouldn’t worry so much whether the label says oil or fluid as I would be about the characteristics of said product and its suitability for my intended purpose.
Without getting too deep into it, for the most part there are two basic types of hydraulic fluids. One that is just for hydraulic systems and a different type for systems where the transmission and hydraulic system shares the same fluid.
If you let us know what tractor you have and what fluid you need for it we can find the correct one for you to use. Also, where do you live and what temperatures are you likely to be operating in?
When the lever is set at Disengage the differential in the rear axle does its normal function. That is it lets one wheel turn faster than the other so that you can make tight turns without binding or dragging one wheel. (In a turn the outer wheel must travel farther than the inner wheel, so it has to turn faster).
When you Engage the differential lock lever it slides a set of dogs together and locks the differential. This causes both wheels to turn together. This is useful when you are going straight forward and one wheel begins to slip (spin). This is caused by more traction on one side than the other. The down side of a differential is that once one wheel starts to spin, there is virtually no force applied to the non-spinning wheel. By locking the differential you cause both wheels to have force applied to them. That way the wheel that still has traction can pull you out of your situation. Once you are in a place where both wheels have traction again, you want to dis-engage the lock.
Don’t use the lock while turning, especially if both wheels have good traction, it can cause things to break inside the axle.
Clear as mud?
The versatility of cartridge selection is the greatest part of the Judge. .410 shot shells with anything from #9 shot to 000 Buck or slugs. Couple that with a good .45 LC with a quality HP bullet and you have just about any situation covered.
The biggest drawback is with only 5 shots you can’t load one of everything. 😉
A 2-1/1″ .410 will hold 3 000 Buck shot. So one snake load (#9 or #7 shot) two 00 Buck and two .45 LC with XTP hollow points will cover a wide range of threats.
The Judge also comes in a 3″ chamber and that increases the pellet count of ooo Buck to 5.
The 2-1/2″ version is way easier to control and shoot than the Super Blackhawk. Both are a lot of FUN.
I wish mine was a 3″. Hmm, maybe I have room “for one more”. 🙂
Rural life where you can use a tractor or dozer to push up a backstop for target practice is a great life!
There are a lot more fittings available than most local hydraulic shops carry or have ever encountered.
Here are a couple of sources I use to figure out fittings for my Jinma 284 tractor.
Welcome to Clearwater Hydraulics
These both have good graphics and measurements for you to compare to.
Check with your local Caterpillar dealer. If they don’t have the caps and plugs you need, they may be able to get them. Cat uses a lot of ORFS hoses.
Adam,
I found this site:
maybe that will get you headed the right way.
Other than that, physical dimensions of the old starter would probably be the way to go. Some pictures of the starter removed from the engine might help too.
Good luck,
Stuart
Yeah, I think the manual calls for warm up to above 70°C before working the tractor hard. I rarely see temps that warm unless it is really hot out or when I had a radiator leak and let it get too low. At -10F I bet I can block the whole radiator and it won’t overheat.
I know I sure won’t!
First some questions:
Is your gauge marked in degrees or just in ranges?
As mentioned above, is your gauge accurate?
Have you pressure checked the system and the radiator cap?
At what outside air temperature does this occur?
Do you use an anti-freeze mix? If so, what ratio?
Once we know these things it will be easier to devise a troubleshooting plan.
As always, check the easy/cheap items first.
It is possible that you have hit the max heat transfer capabilities of your system at a given OAT. There may also be something faulty.
I just came in from 2 hours of snow blowing with my 284 at -10°F and the temp gauge never got above 50°C! I may stuff a piece of cardboard in front of part of the radiator tomorrow.
Bring your 354 to ND and see if it will overheat up here! 😉
Stuart
