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The versatility of cartridge selection is the greatest part of the Judge. .410 shot shells with anything from #9 shot to 000 Buck or slugs. Couple that with a good .45 LC with a quality HP bullet and you have just about any situation covered.
The biggest drawback is with only 5 shots you can’t load one of everything. 😉
A 2-1/1″ .410 will hold 3 000 Buck shot. So one snake load (#9 or #7 shot) two 00 Buck and two .45 LC with XTP hollow points will cover a wide range of threats.
The Judge also comes in a 3″ chamber and that increases the pellet count of ooo Buck to 5.
The 2-1/2″ version is way easier to control and shoot than the Super Blackhawk. Both are a lot of FUN.
I wish mine was a 3″. Hmm, maybe I have room “for one more”. 🙂
Rural life where you can use a tractor or dozer to push up a backstop for target practice is a great life!
There are a lot more fittings available than most local hydraulic shops carry or have ever encountered.
Here are a couple of sources I use to figure out fittings for my Jinma 284 tractor.
Welcome to Clearwater Hydraulics
These both have good graphics and measurements for you to compare to.
Check with your local Caterpillar dealer. If they don’t have the caps and plugs you need, they may be able to get them. Cat uses a lot of ORFS hoses.
Adam,
I found this site:
maybe that will get you headed the right way.
Other than that, physical dimensions of the old starter would probably be the way to go. Some pictures of the starter removed from the engine might help too.
Good luck,
Stuart
Yeah, I think the manual calls for warm up to above 70°C before working the tractor hard. I rarely see temps that warm unless it is really hot out or when I had a radiator leak and let it get too low. At -10F I bet I can block the whole radiator and it won’t overheat.
I know I sure won’t!
First some questions:
Is your gauge marked in degrees or just in ranges?
As mentioned above, is your gauge accurate?
Have you pressure checked the system and the radiator cap?
At what outside air temperature does this occur?
Do you use an anti-freeze mix? If so, what ratio?
Once we know these things it will be easier to devise a troubleshooting plan.
As always, check the easy/cheap items first.
It is possible that you have hit the max heat transfer capabilities of your system at a given OAT. There may also be something faulty.
I just came in from 2 hours of snow blowing with my 284 at -10°F and the temp gauge never got above 50°C! I may stuff a piece of cardboard in front of part of the radiator tomorrow.
Bring your 354 to ND and see if it will overheat up here! 😉
Stuart
Interesting. I didn’t know that about the higher HP tractors as I only have the 284.
It has been a couple of years since I talked with Ronald.
Thanks for the info.
Bob, you have made me curious.
I thought Jinma was the company that made and sold their own brand as well as Farm Pro and Nortrac as well as some others. Basic differences were hoods, fenders, and other cosmetic things.
However I was under the impression that Mahindra was a totally different company based in India where Jinma is Chinese.
Am I missing something in the connection between Jinma and Mahindra?
BTW, the tractor in question looks a lot like my Jinma but styled a little different. I have never seen a Mahindra in person so can only go by pictures.
Stuart
Since you are having problems with two gauges at the same time and one of them seems to not be accurate, my first guess would be an electrical problem.
Check the connections at the temp sensor and at the fuse block for the instrumentation circuit. Sounds a lot like a loose connection or a short in a wire somewhere. After that it gets a little more complicated without seeing a schematic.
I once switched the wires between the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure switch, boy did that make things go wonky until I figured it out.
Sounds like you are getting water/anti-freeze into the combustion chamber.
Check the coolant level first to see if it is low. Not proof of anything but a clue. If the crankcase oil is fine bu the coolant is low, (and there are no obvious leaks) it could indicate burning of coolant. That would fit with the color of the smoke.
Do the puffs appear at what one could guess was every fourth puff of exhaust? If so, probably only getting into one cylinder.
A infrared (heat gun) thermometer would be useful here. Warm up the engine as normal. Then increase RPM until you see the white smoke. Let it run a few minutes while monitoring each cylinder’s exhaust manifold with the IR thermometer. The one(s) that are burning coolant will cool down compared to the others. If they all cool down then you know all cylinders are affected.
If this is the case, hopefully it is just a head gasket and not a cracked head or block.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
