Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Bob, you have made me curious.
I thought Jinma was the company that made and sold their own brand as well as Farm Pro and Nortrac as well as some others. Basic differences were hoods, fenders, and other cosmetic things.
However I was under the impression that Mahindra was a totally different company based in India where Jinma is Chinese.
Am I missing something in the connection between Jinma and Mahindra?
BTW, the tractor in question looks a lot like my Jinma but styled a little different. I have never seen a Mahindra in person so can only go by pictures.
Stuart
Since you are having problems with two gauges at the same time and one of them seems to not be accurate, my first guess would be an electrical problem.
Check the connections at the temp sensor and at the fuse block for the instrumentation circuit. Sounds a lot like a loose connection or a short in a wire somewhere. After that it gets a little more complicated without seeing a schematic.
I once switched the wires between the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure switch, boy did that make things go wonky until I figured it out.
Sounds like you are getting water/anti-freeze into the combustion chamber.
Check the coolant level first to see if it is low. Not proof of anything but a clue. If the crankcase oil is fine bu the coolant is low, (and there are no obvious leaks) it could indicate burning of coolant. That would fit with the color of the smoke.
Do the puffs appear at what one could guess was every fourth puff of exhaust? If so, probably only getting into one cylinder.
A infrared (heat gun) thermometer would be useful here. Warm up the engine as normal. Then increase RPM until you see the white smoke. Let it run a few minutes while monitoring each cylinder’s exhaust manifold with the IR thermometer. The one(s) that are burning coolant will cool down compared to the others. If they all cool down then you know all cylinders are affected.
If this is the case, hopefully it is just a head gasket and not a cracked head or block.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Below is the info I have on file. No experience with it.
Hope this helps
Stuart
Service Advisory 6:
Ignition Switch Retrofit
Easy no
special tools required. http://www.tractoroutlet.
com/toservice.html
The ignition switch that came with your Jinma 1828
HP tractor is multifunction and can present some
problems after significant use. It can have intermittent faults where the momentary glow plugs and
starter are immediately on when you turn the key to the first position (lights). In other words, all three
posts are hot, #2 for lights, #3 for glow plugs, and #4 for starter solenoid. This will cause your 30 amp
fuse to blow consistently. A replacement switch is available through your local New Holland dealer and
was used on Ford Series 20009000
tractors from about 1965 on. Ask for Ford Part # D 5NN11N501A.
If you would still like to use a direct replacement that requires nothing other than wire for wire
exchange then we normally stock them. Ask for Jinma part number #TY290
© Tractor Outlet
P.O. Box 147
83548 Bowens Lane
Christmas Valley, Oregon 97641That link is dead but found it here:
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/
That site has the info on the clutch adjustment that the OP was looking for. I just could not find the copy I had printed and forgot where it came from.
Check this out:
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/JMClutchAdj.html
Here are a couple of the PDF files I have collected. I will keep looking for the one with the color photos you asked for. If I find it I will put it up too.
Hope this helps.
http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
I am working on getting them uploaded to my web site. I will post links as soon as I am done. Hopefully later today.
Pretty sure I have a printed copy somewhere. Can’t find it right now, and a search of the computer only turned up a couple of manuals in PDF format. They contain the black and white drawings and the procedures. Not sure how to post them to this site.
Is there a files section somewhere?
If not, maybe I can email them directly to you.
Wow, that was unexpected, but completely understandable.
Good thing the engine never got above an idle because if it had dead-headed at speed more than likely something would have broken.
The factory quick connects on the hydraulics are a know source of problems. The good news is that they are easily replaced.
Check out the vendor sponsors of this site to find good replacement connectors.
Thanks for posting the follow up, it will help someone else in the future.
If for some reason replacing the connectors does not solve the problem, at least it will be isolated to the FEL.
Well, to run you need fuel, air, and heat. You have the heat (compression), otherwise it would not start.
Exception: are you using the glow plugs to get it started? If so, there is a slight chance (very slight) that you don’t have enough compression to keep it running. This can be tested by hitting the glow plugs right after it starts to see if it will continue to run.
Other items are air or fuel. How is the air filter? Try removing the intake hose at the manifold and see if it will run that way. Not likely the problem, but it should be checked anyway.
Last is fuel which is more difficult to troubleshoot. If you found no air while bleeding the system and since it does start, air in the system is probably not the cause.
Poor flow rate might be it, so first step would be to check (or just replace) the filters. You can also take the hose off at the sediment bowl and turn the valve on to see if there is proper flow there. If not, clean the sediment bowl and check again. Some units have a screen in the tank that may be plugged.
Last thing to look at is the lift pump. If it is not providing enough fuel flow to the injection pump it could cause the symptoms you describe.
Start with the simple things first. Check the fuel flows and let us know what you find.
