Piper184

Below is the info I have on file. No experience with it.

Hope this helps

Stuart

Service Advisory 6:
Ignition Switch Retrofit
Easy no
special tools required. http://www.tractoroutlet.
com/toservice.html
The ignition switch that came with your Jinma 1828
HP tractor is multifunction and can present some
problems after significant use. It can have intermittent faults where the momentary glow plugs and
starter are immediately on when you turn the key to the first position (lights). In other words, all three
posts are hot, #2 for lights, #3 for glow plugs, and #4 for starter solenoid. This will cause your 30 amp
fuse to blow consistently. A replacement switch is available through your local New Holland dealer and
was used on Ford Series 20009000
tractors from about 1965 on. Ask for Ford Part # D 5NN11N501A.
If you would still like to use a direct replacement that requires nothing other than wire for wire
exchange then we normally stock them. Ask for Jinma part number #TY290
© Tractor Outlet
P.O. Box 147
83548 Bowens Lane
Christmas Valley, Oregon 97641

Here are a couple of the PDF files I have collected. I will keep looking for the one with the color photos you asked for. If I find it I will put it up too.

Hope this helps.

http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html

Pretty sure I have a printed copy somewhere. Can’t find it right now, and a search of the computer only turned up a couple of manuals in PDF format. They contain the black and white drawings and the procedures. Not sure how to post them to this site.

Is there a files section somewhere?

If not, maybe I can email them directly to you.

Well, to run you need fuel, air, and heat. You have the heat (compression), otherwise it would not start.

Exception: are you using the glow plugs to get it started? If so, there is a slight chance (very slight) that you don’t have enough compression to keep it running. This can be tested by hitting the glow plugs right after it starts to see if it will continue to run.

Other items are air or fuel. How is the air filter? Try removing the intake hose at the manifold and see if it will run that way. Not likely the problem, but it should be checked anyway.

Last is fuel which is more difficult to troubleshoot.  If you found no air while bleeding the system and since it does start, air in the system is probably not the cause.

Poor flow rate might be it, so first step would be to check (or just replace) the filters. You can also take the hose off at the sediment bowl and turn the valve on to see if there is proper flow there. If not, clean the sediment bowl and check again. Some units have a screen in the tank that may be plugged.

Last thing to look at is the lift pump. If it is not providing enough fuel flow to the injection pump it could cause the symptoms you describe.

Start with the simple things first. Check the fuel flows and let us know what you find.

You have done a very good job investigating and troubleshooting so far. The details of the voltages is the key.

In normal operation the voltage regulator  controls the voltage going to the field connection at the alternator. If battery voltage is low (usually less than about 14.5v), the regulator sends battery voltage to the field winding of the alternator (rotor), which causes a voltage output in the stator coil. This is tapped at various locations and rectified through the diodes to put a steady DC voltage out on the Battery connection at the alternator. If this voltage is greater than the battery voltage, it will charge the battery.

One way to test an alternator is to “full field” it by temporarily applying battery voltage to the field terminal. This will cause the alternator to go to maximum output (if it is working properly).

Since your alternator is getting battery voltage from the regulator, that indicates the regulator is doing its job and that the wiring is sound.

Conclusion is that your alternator has failed.

I would remove it and take it to an automotive parts store (NAPA, Pep Boys, etc.) and see if they can bench test if for you.

If your alternator is bad, you will have a decision or two to make. I am not sure if internal parts are available or not. If not, you will be looking at a replacement of some kind.

For me personally when my regulator failed, I replaced the alternator with a re-manufactured Delco 10si model for about $65. I had to do a little re-wiring and make an extension for the adjuster bracket. The Jinma regulator was $30 and some of the wiring was bad anyway.

There are pros and cons of doing so, but the results are a better charging system than came from the factory.

The Sense wire on my alternator was labeled “I”. It was used to activate the light on the dash which was redundant because my 284 had an ammeter too. The 10si I bought did not have the sense wire output so the light on the dash is non-functioning. If I felt the need a voltmeter could be added easily enough.

Let us know if you have any more questions.

Stuart