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Try heating up the cylinder on the outside of the threaded area. This should cause it to expand and maybe it will release its grip on the threads of the gland end. Also try tapping around the outer side of the threaded area with a hammer. Like an impact wrench to “jar” things loose.
Depending on the style and quality of your spanner wrench, a cheater pipe for more torque may be required. Be careful with that though.
Good luck
Oh yeah, I totally forgot about the hand primer pump! It has been so long since I have had to use it. If you have one, there is no need to spin the engine to get air out of the system at least as far as the bleeder screw.
On my Jinma 284 the hand pump is mounted vertically. It has a round knob that is knurled around the edge and has a spring underneath. You “unscrew” the knob and when it is free the spring will push the plunger up.
The bleeder screw with the ring on it is to the left and slightly above the hand pump.
Loosen the bleeder and pump the plunger until you get a steady stream of fuel from the bleeder screw.
On the last pump down, hold the plunger down and screw it in until tight then tighten the bleeder screw.
I don’t know if the hand primer is capable of pushing fuel through the injection pump and all the way up to the injector fittings. I doubt it, but would definitely give it a try.
Also a thumbs up to checking the sediment bowl, the screen in the sediment bowl and this also might be a good time to go ahead and replace the spin on fuel filter.
This also brings up some advice about fuel filters that I will pass on. I used to work for a Caterpillar dealer and this comes from Caterpillar. (this is in my own words as I don’t have access to the actual policy)
There is an “old time” practice of filling a new fuel filter with fuel before spinning it on. The idea is so that you don’t get any more air in the system than necessary. However CAT says DO NOT DO THIS! The reason is that you are introducing unfiltered fuel into the filter where it can get directly into the injection pump. CATs recommendation is to carefully clean the filter base before removing the old filter. Remove and discard the old filter and any fuel it contains. Carefully check for any contamination on the filter base and screw on a new clean empty filter. Then use the hand pump to draw fuel through the filter and purge any air out of the system at the bleeder.
The tolerances for clearance between the internal parts of modern injector pumps and injectors is incredibly small and any dirt can block passages or cause premature wear of the parts. Parts are expensive, fuel and filters are cheap.
There is a chance that once air got to the injector pump it did not push any into the lines that go to the injectors. I would definitely attempt to start the engine once you are sure all the air has been purged as far as the bleeder screw. I wouldn’t mess with the injector fittings unless I had to.
If indeed it ran out of fuel you most assuredly have air in the lines.
Start by checking to see that fuel is flowing through the sediment bowl.
Then open the bleeder screw on the side of the injection pump. Mine has a ring attached to it to make it easier. If fuel does not flow out on its own, turn the engine over a few seconds with the starter, that should get fuel flowing. Once you have good bubble free flow there close the screw.
You can try starting the engine at this point but it probably won’t start.
If not, you need to crack open the fittings between the hard lines and the injectors. Be very careful not to do any damage to the lines or injectors. I would do one at a time, crack open, turn engine with starter until fuel runs out. Re-tighten, CAREFULLY.
After you get fuel coming out of the injector fittings you should be able to hit the glow plugs for the appropriate time and then start up.
One trick I do is heat the glow plugs then pull the decompression lever and hit the starter. Once the engine is spinning up to speed (usually in 1 or 2 seconds), release the decompression lever. This allows the full momentum of the engine to hit that first firing piston at full speed. Makes it fire off easier. I always start with the hand throttle pushed forward just enough to move the foot pedal about 1/2″.
Let us know if you get it running or if you have any more questions.
I am highly suspicious of your battery. BUT, before you dig into that too deep, I would follow the advice an old farmer I know always gives on electrical problems.
Check your grounds
Check your grounds
Check your grounds
Actually this applies to both ends of both battery cables. You want to make sure they have nice clean and tight contacts at both ends. Don’t just wiggle them to make sure they are tight. Take them off and clean them. I recommend doing this first because it is cheap and easy and has a high probability of finding the problem.
While you are working on the cables, get a charger on the battery and look to see what kind of amperage draw the battery is taking. It is also quite likely that your battery can hold a voltage on the surface of the plates, but it has no internal capacity to provide much current. When this happens, a battery can also “suck all the juice” out of the jumping vehicle. This means that the output from your other tractor is being “eaten up” by your bad battery and not letting enough power get to the starter.
Of course you could have a new starter that is bad, but not too likely. Also, make sure the paint on the new starter is cleaned off where it contacts the engine housing and where the heads of the mounting bolts contact the starter. This is where the starter gets grounded.
Remember, check your grounds!
Another test you could do is disconnect the negative battery cable from your 204 battery, and try the jump start again. This will take the suspect battery out of the circuit and you will be starting completely off of the other tractor. If that works, you know your 204 battery is the culprit. If not, you have a cable or starter problem.
Let us know what you find.
I have not had the control valve apart to see what is inside. My parts manual shows a pin with a shoulder and head on the top (goes into the sliding valve) and a snap ring on the bottom. It looks like the pin also holds the “locating lump” detent casting to the shaft that the exterior lever bolts onto.
It would appear that you have to remove the back of the valve assy to put the pin into the sliding valve which is under spring tension.
I can scan the page I am looking at and post it if you would like.
Do you mean the “return to neutral” rod that goes between the 3 point control lever and the 3 point lift?
On my 284 the return to neutral rod has a 90° bend on one end and is threaded on the other for adjustment. This rod pushes the control lever back to neutral just as the 3 point lift reaches the top of it’s travel.
The picture in my parts list is so poor it is worthless. I can take a picture of my tractor if it would help.
In 2WD the front and rear wheels won’t be connected to each other and the problem should not show itself as the front wheels are free to turn at whatever rate is needed.
I measured my tires this afternoon. I have a 2006 284 with AG tires. Rear are 9.5 X 24 Front are 6.00 X 16
Circumference of Rear is 129″ and the front is 91″. One side jacked up and locked in 4WD the front tire travels 126.5″ per revolution of the rear tire. This is only a 2% difference which is probably within the allowable tolerance. The backlash of all the gears in the system probably adds up to more than that.
These are the original factory tires and have less than 20% of the tread worn off. They appear to be wearing evenly between front and rear. Also the 2% difference could probably be removed by altering the PSI in the tires. I did not check the tire pressure and only measured the one side.
It would be interesting if you could find some tires and rims from another unit to swap onto yours to see if that cures the problem.
Let us know what you find.
Stuart
It doesn’t hop the 14″ all at once but rather hops a little each time it “binds up”. It also may be sliding some before it gets enough pressure built up to cause it to break loose. This is probably contributing significantly to the wear of the front tires which in turn makes the problem even worse.
There are a couple of different ways to calculate the gear ratio and tire sizes but they all boil down to exactly what you did. However far the rear tire travels, the front one must travel the same distance or something has to give. By jacking up just one side you kept the opposite tire from rotating which effectively took the differential out of play
If I remember correctly, when doing ground work (plowing, planting, cultivating) it is proper to have something like 6 to 8 percent tire slippage. This allows the soil to build up into the lugs of the tires give the best traction. The tracks left by the tires make this really obvious. That is why I had suggested finding some soft ground. Your idea of waiting for some snow or ice would do the same thing.
You may be able to duplicate the effect on dry pavement. Get lined up for a straight run on a consistent surface such as a paved driveway. Put it in 4WD and first gear, in low range and in creeper gear. Put a chalk mark on the bottom of all 4 tires, and a corresponding mark on the pavement. If you have a helper one person can drive while one watches and marks the pavement where the mark on the tire comes back around to the ground. You can do this yourself if you have to as at idle the tractor is moving slow enough to get off and back on. If you are uncomfortable with getting back on, you can at least grab the fuel cut off and stop the engine.
Having a helper is best because the person on the tractor can yell you “HOP” when he feels the tractor bind up and release. You can make a mark on the pavement when this happens. After 2 or 3 revolutions of the rear tires you will have enough “tracks” on the ground to get a visualization of what is happening.
I will try to get out and measure the circumference of my AG tires today. Then we will at least have something for comparison.
