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Here is a picture from my Operation Manual. It definitely shows the lower seal with the spring down and the upper seal with the spring up. Note that they show the same arrangement for the double seal on the hub spindle.
I probably followed this setup when I put it back together, I simply don’t remember.
My previous comment about the backlash was from memory and was in error (CRS strikes again). Actually it is a shim number 2 in this image. Now that the memory is jogged, I remember laughing at the gasket mentioned above as it does not seal anything. At least on my tractor the holes did not go all the way through into the housing, thus no exposure to oil. :unsure:
In any case, if the seals are running in a groove they won’t seal. Aftermarket seals of the same dimensions but of different design (double lip, thicker or thinner, etc.) may be helpful in finding a solution. If there is a groove and it can not be avoided speedi sleeve or new housing are about your only choices. 🙁
It has been a couple of years since I did mine and and I don’t specifically remember which way the seals went.
Looking at the parts diagram and thinking about the direction the oil is flowing it would seem to me that you would want the springs down. The spring side is usually considered to be the “inside” of the seal.
The lower seal (thick one) would be doing the work of holding the oil in the axle and the upper seal (thin one) is acting as a dust seal with the added protection of the felt washer.
In my case the felt washer got torn while I was doing a lot of dirt work and the grit got in and destroyed the top seal but that did not cause it to leak until it worked its way down to the bottom seal. by the time it started leaking the damage to the shaft housing (where the lips of the seal ride) had been done. I don’t think this surface has any kind of hardening done to it. I had to special order a speedi sleeve from a bearing house. Expensive but less than a new shaft housing. I also ordered seals from them to have extras on hand and to see if they had the lip in a slightly different location. They did but not far enough different to get far enough from the groove for my liking so I went with the speedi sleeve.
Also don’t forget that the “Gasket” (#7 in the diagram) under the steering arm is used to set the backlash of the gears inside. So if you replace it, be sure to look closely at the old one to see how many were used originally.
The right side on my tractor is now starting to leak a little. Guess I am going to have to get back into this again.
On mine the seals had worn a significant groove in the metal. I fixed it with a speedi sleeve.
Also a seal from a different manufacturer might have the sealing lip in a slightly different place which can be used to get away from a groove warn by the old seal.
Try heating up the cylinder on the outside of the threaded area. This should cause it to expand and maybe it will release its grip on the threads of the gland end. Also try tapping around the outer side of the threaded area with a hammer. Like an impact wrench to “jar” things loose.
Depending on the style and quality of your spanner wrench, a cheater pipe for more torque may be required. Be careful with that though.
Good luck
Oh yeah, I totally forgot about the hand primer pump! It has been so long since I have had to use it. If you have one, there is no need to spin the engine to get air out of the system at least as far as the bleeder screw.
On my Jinma 284 the hand pump is mounted vertically. It has a round knob that is knurled around the edge and has a spring underneath. You “unscrew” the knob and when it is free the spring will push the plunger up.
The bleeder screw with the ring on it is to the left and slightly above the hand pump.
Loosen the bleeder and pump the plunger until you get a steady stream of fuel from the bleeder screw.
On the last pump down, hold the plunger down and screw it in until tight then tighten the bleeder screw.
I don’t know if the hand primer is capable of pushing fuel through the injection pump and all the way up to the injector fittings. I doubt it, but would definitely give it a try.
Also a thumbs up to checking the sediment bowl, the screen in the sediment bowl and this also might be a good time to go ahead and replace the spin on fuel filter.
This also brings up some advice about fuel filters that I will pass on. I used to work for a Caterpillar dealer and this comes from Caterpillar. (this is in my own words as I don’t have access to the actual policy)
There is an “old time” practice of filling a new fuel filter with fuel before spinning it on. The idea is so that you don’t get any more air in the system than necessary. However CAT says DO NOT DO THIS! The reason is that you are introducing unfiltered fuel into the filter where it can get directly into the injection pump. CATs recommendation is to carefully clean the filter base before removing the old filter. Remove and discard the old filter and any fuel it contains. Carefully check for any contamination on the filter base and screw on a new clean empty filter. Then use the hand pump to draw fuel through the filter and purge any air out of the system at the bleeder.
The tolerances for clearance between the internal parts of modern injector pumps and injectors is incredibly small and any dirt can block passages or cause premature wear of the parts. Parts are expensive, fuel and filters are cheap.
There is a chance that once air got to the injector pump it did not push any into the lines that go to the injectors. I would definitely attempt to start the engine once you are sure all the air has been purged as far as the bleeder screw. I wouldn’t mess with the injector fittings unless I had to.
If indeed it ran out of fuel you most assuredly have air in the lines.
Start by checking to see that fuel is flowing through the sediment bowl.
Then open the bleeder screw on the side of the injection pump. Mine has a ring attached to it to make it easier. If fuel does not flow out on its own, turn the engine over a few seconds with the starter, that should get fuel flowing. Once you have good bubble free flow there close the screw.
You can try starting the engine at this point but it probably won’t start.
If not, you need to crack open the fittings between the hard lines and the injectors. Be very careful not to do any damage to the lines or injectors. I would do one at a time, crack open, turn engine with starter until fuel runs out. Re-tighten, CAREFULLY.
After you get fuel coming out of the injector fittings you should be able to hit the glow plugs for the appropriate time and then start up.
One trick I do is heat the glow plugs then pull the decompression lever and hit the starter. Once the engine is spinning up to speed (usually in 1 or 2 seconds), release the decompression lever. This allows the full momentum of the engine to hit that first firing piston at full speed. Makes it fire off easier. I always start with the hand throttle pushed forward just enough to move the foot pedal about 1/2″.
Let us know if you get it running or if you have any more questions.
I am highly suspicious of your battery. BUT, before you dig into that too deep, I would follow the advice an old farmer I know always gives on electrical problems.
Check your grounds
Check your grounds
Check your grounds
Actually this applies to both ends of both battery cables. You want to make sure they have nice clean and tight contacts at both ends. Don’t just wiggle them to make sure they are tight. Take them off and clean them. I recommend doing this first because it is cheap and easy and has a high probability of finding the problem.
While you are working on the cables, get a charger on the battery and look to see what kind of amperage draw the battery is taking. It is also quite likely that your battery can hold a voltage on the surface of the plates, but it has no internal capacity to provide much current. When this happens, a battery can also “suck all the juice” out of the jumping vehicle. This means that the output from your other tractor is being “eaten up” by your bad battery and not letting enough power get to the starter.
Of course you could have a new starter that is bad, but not too likely. Also, make sure the paint on the new starter is cleaned off where it contacts the engine housing and where the heads of the mounting bolts contact the starter. This is where the starter gets grounded.
Remember, check your grounds!
Another test you could do is disconnect the negative battery cable from your 204 battery, and try the jump start again. This will take the suspect battery out of the circuit and you will be starting completely off of the other tractor. If that works, you know your 204 battery is the culprit. If not, you have a cable or starter problem.
Let us know what you find.
I have not had the control valve apart to see what is inside. My parts manual shows a pin with a shoulder and head on the top (goes into the sliding valve) and a snap ring on the bottom. It looks like the pin also holds the “locating lump” detent casting to the shaft that the exterior lever bolts onto.
It would appear that you have to remove the back of the valve assy to put the pin into the sliding valve which is under spring tension.
I can scan the page I am looking at and post it if you would like.
