Piper184

It doesn’t hop the 14″ all at once but rather hops a little each time it “binds up”. It also may be sliding some before it gets enough pressure built up to cause it to break loose. This is probably contributing significantly to the wear of the front tires which in turn makes the problem even worse.

There are a couple of different ways to calculate the gear ratio and tire sizes but they all boil down to exactly what you did. However far the rear tire travels, the front one must travel the same distance or something has to give. By jacking up just one side you kept the opposite tire from rotating which effectively took the differential out of play

If I remember correctly, when doing ground work (plowing, planting, cultivating) it is proper to have something like 6 to 8 percent tire slippage. This allows the soil to build up into the lugs of the tires give the best traction. The tracks left by the tires make this really obvious. That is why I had suggested finding some soft ground. Your idea of waiting for some snow or ice would do the same thing.

You may be able to duplicate the effect on dry pavement. Get lined up for a straight run on a consistent surface such as a paved driveway. Put it in 4WD and first gear, in low range and in creeper gear. Put a chalk mark on the bottom of all 4 tires, and a corresponding mark on the pavement.  If you have a helper one person can drive while one watches and marks the pavement where the mark on the tire comes back around to the ground. You can do this yourself if you have to as at idle the tractor is moving slow enough to get off and back on. If you are uncomfortable with getting back on, you can at least grab the fuel cut off and stop the engine.

Having a helper is best because the person on the tractor can yell you “HOP” when he feels the tractor bind up and release. You can make a mark on the pavement when this happens. After 2 or 3 revolutions of the rear tires you will have enough “tracks” on the ground to get a visualization of what is happening.

I will try to get out and measure the circumference of my AG tires today. Then we will at least have something for comparison.

My 284 charges intermittently. In this case I know that it is a bad connection at the back of the regulator. Most times unplugging and plugging in the regulator will make it work. However the connectors like to slide out of the fuse holder.

The wiring on these units is not exactly high quality wires or connectors. Also the placement of the regulator in the fuse block makes it subject to a lot of vibration. When I have time I will remove the wires for the regulator and move it to a better location where I can stop the vibration of the wires where the connectors crimp on. I think that is where the problems are. Some strain relief and some wire ties to secure everything should be a permanent fix.

From what I can tell the alternator and regulator are working fine as long as there is a connection between them.  However if the alternator should fail, a one-wire Delco would be a nice upgrade.

Stuart

Yeah, RSS is not my method of choice but it does help out.

When a message shows up in Outlook through an RSS feed, it looks like an email but is not.

For one thing you can not reply to it. But there is a link button in each message called “view article” that if you click that, it will launch your browser and take you directly to that message in the online forum.

Once the message is in Outlook, I can use all of the other features to manage the messages (apply rules to sort and move). It makes dealing with 100+ messages from several forums and list-servs a little easier each day.

BTW, I do like the new nice clean look of the site. Not a lot of “jibber-jabber” in the code so it loads nice and fast!

Yes, but I still have to fire up a browser and go “looking” for a post.

List-serv or RSS delivers it to me automatically and I new post are highlighted in my always running email program.

I don’t have a reason to log onto COTA every day but would if the RSS feed gave me a reason to do so. The only reason I noticed there was a new site for COTA is when Outlook started telling me there was a problem with the RSS feeds. After a couple of days I decided to see if I could figure out what was wrong. Logging on for the first time in months revealed the problem.

Being forced to use the onsite forum as my only means of contact, I will likely not monitor nor participate in the exchange of information until I “need” something.

As a former sys-admin I understand the problems associated with list-serv and RSS. As an end user, I appreciate them greatly and sites that use them are much more valuable to me.

For me, mobile device access is a non-issue. My wired internet works in the metal walled shop, the cell phone doesn’t.

If you have current draw but no clicking sound, it is most likely either the solenoid or the key switch. Older units had starter switches that would fry internally, especially if the glow plugs were used a lot.  There is a recommended replacement with a Ford part number.

Cleaning and lubing the starter is always a good idea, but not likely to be the cause of your problem as you said it starts well when it finally does catch.

Try bypassing the switch by jumping power from the battery directly to the started solenoid. Don't do this without all the regular safety precautions, gear shift in neutral, someone in the seat, etc.

If you get a good start, it points to the switch, if you still have problems, it points to the solenoid.

A third test requires a jumper cable sized wire to jump from the battery to the positive post of the starter, thus bypassing the solenoid. If it spins fine, that points to the solenoid, if it does not, remove the starter and clean and lube. This is not hard to do by the way, just takes a little time.

Last but probably should be first, advice from an old farmer I once knew. “Check the grounds, check the grounds, check the grounds”

Make sure all the wires and connections are clean and tight, don't just look, take them off and check. You would be surprised how much resistance to a circuit can be added by just a little rust or corrosion. Check every connection from the battery to the switches to the solenoid to the starter, and don't forget to check the grounds.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Info on ignition switch listed below:

Service Advisory 6:
Ignition Switch Retrofit
Easy no
special tools required. http://www.tractoroutlet.
com/toservice.html
The ignition switch that came with your Jinma 1828
HP tractor is multifunction and can present some
problems after significant use. It can have intermittent faults where the momentary glow plugs and
starter are immediately on when you turn the key to the first position (lights). In other words, all three
posts are hot, #2 for lights, #3 for glow plugs, and #4 for starter solenoid. This will cause your 30 amp
fuse to blow consistently. A replacement switch is available through your local New Holland dealer and
was used on Ford Series 20009000
tractors from about 1965 on. Ask for Ford Part # D 5NN11N501A.
If you would still like to use a direct replacement that requires nothing other than wire for wire
exchange then we normally stock them. Ask for Jinma part number #TY290
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83548 Bowens Lane
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