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My 284 charges intermittently. In this case I know that it is a bad connection at the back of the regulator. Most times unplugging and plugging in the regulator will make it work. However the connectors like to slide out of the fuse holder.
The wiring on these units is not exactly high quality wires or connectors. Also the placement of the regulator in the fuse block makes it subject to a lot of vibration. When I have time I will remove the wires for the regulator and move it to a better location where I can stop the vibration of the wires where the connectors crimp on. I think that is where the problems are. Some strain relief and some wire ties to secure everything should be a permanent fix.
From what I can tell the alternator and regulator are working fine as long as there is a connection between them. However if the alternator should fail, a one-wire Delco would be a nice upgrade.
Stuart
Jester,
After going back and reading the entire thread from the start, I think that David was on the right track with his remarks about the tires. You said that you have had the tractor since new, everything is original and that the problem has been getting worse over the last year.
Somewhere in the past I have read that you can not mix tire types. That is to say you can not put ag tires on the back and turf tires on the front for example. This is because the tires are sized to roll together for the gear ratio involved.
I think it is entirely quite possible that the front tires have worn down faster than the rear tires and now as David pointed out they are not within the working limits of each other.
Here is an experiment that won’t involve any dis-assembly.
Jack up one front wheel and the same side rear wheel just enough to get ground clearance. Mark the “bottom” of each tire and with 4WD engaged, rotate the rear tire one complete revolution. I would do this by hand with the engine off and the transmission in neutral. Watch and count the revolutions of the front tire. This will give you the ratio of front to rear.
Now, measure the circumference of each tire. the ratio between the two should be really close to the gear ratio between the axles.
Do the lugs on the front and rear appear to be worn at at the same rate? It is quite common for the fronts to wear faster especially if you do a lot of tight turns on hard surfaces.
Another experiment would be to drive on some smooth sand or soft soil in 4WD and watch the tracks. More than likely the lugs on the front tires will be “pushing” the soil and leaving deformed tracks as the front tires are not rolling at the same rate as the rears. In really soft conditions, I would bet you won’t feel the binding as the fronts will be sliding instead.
You could put it in 1st/low/creeper and get off and watch as the tractor runs under power. You should be able to see the front tires “load up” and then slide forward to release the tension. Sort of “skipping” as they try to catch up to the rear tire travel.
I am not sure if I have explained these thoughts very well. Please let me know if something is confusing.
Stuart
Yeah, RSS is not my method of choice but it does help out.
When a message shows up in Outlook through an RSS feed, it looks like an email but is not.
For one thing you can not reply to it. But there is a link button in each message called “view article” that if you click that, it will launch your browser and take you directly to that message in the online forum.
Once the message is in Outlook, I can use all of the other features to manage the messages (apply rules to sort and move). It makes dealing with 100+ messages from several forums and list-servs a little easier each day.
BTW, I do like the new nice clean look of the site. Not a lot of “jibber-jabber” in the code so it loads nice and fast!
There we go! Had to subscribe to the individual forums (that is OK) first, then activate the RSS to my Outlook. The subscribe button is a little camouflaged but once I found it the rest was easy.
Looks like it is working now.
I didn’t see the feed button on the site pages, but the link you posted worked fine.
Thanks,
Stuart
Yes, but I still have to fire up a browser and go “looking” for a post.
List-serv or RSS delivers it to me automatically and I new post are highlighted in my always running email program.
I don’t have a reason to log onto COTA every day but would if the RSS feed gave me a reason to do so. The only reason I noticed there was a new site for COTA is when Outlook started telling me there was a problem with the RSS feeds. After a couple of days I decided to see if I could figure out what was wrong. Logging on for the first time in months revealed the problem.
Being forced to use the onsite forum as my only means of contact, I will likely not monitor nor participate in the exchange of information until I “need” something.
As a former sys-admin I understand the problems associated with list-serv and RSS. As an end user, I appreciate them greatly and sites that use them are much more valuable to me.
For me, mobile device access is a non-issue. My wired internet works in the metal walled shop, the cell phone doesn’t.
Will the RSS feed come back, or better yet, get a list-serv for email?
I would rather have messages come in via email and let my email program handle the sorting and categorizing. Even a daily digest of posts are better than having to log on and search for new posts.
RSS was at least delivered to my inbox.
If you have current draw but no clicking sound, it is most likely either the solenoid or the key switch. Older units had starter switches that would fry internally, especially if the glow plugs were used a lot. There is a recommended replacement with a Ford part number.
Cleaning and lubing the starter is always a good idea, but not likely to be the cause of your problem as you said it starts well when it finally does catch.
Try bypassing the switch by jumping power from the battery directly to the started solenoid. Don't do this without all the regular safety precautions, gear shift in neutral, someone in the seat, etc.
If you get a good start, it points to the switch, if you still have problems, it points to the solenoid.
A third test requires a jumper cable sized wire to jump from the battery to the positive post of the starter, thus bypassing the solenoid. If it spins fine, that points to the solenoid, if it does not, remove the starter and clean and lube. This is not hard to do by the way, just takes a little time.
Last but probably should be first, advice from an old farmer I once knew. “Check the grounds, check the grounds, check the grounds”
Make sure all the wires and connections are clean and tight, don't just look, take them off and check. You would be surprised how much resistance to a circuit can be added by just a little rust or corrosion. Check every connection from the battery to the switches to the solenoid to the starter, and don't forget to check the grounds.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Info on ignition switch listed below:
Service Advisory 6:
Ignition Switch Retrofit
Easy no
special tools required. http://www.tractoroutlet.
com/toservice.html
The ignition switch that came with your Jinma 1828
HP tractor is multifunction and can present some
problems after significant use. It can have intermittent faults where the momentary glow plugs and
starter are immediately on when you turn the key to the first position (lights). In other words, all three
posts are hot, #2 for lights, #3 for glow plugs, and #4 for starter solenoid. This will cause your 30 amp
fuse to blow consistently. A replacement switch is available through your local New Holland dealer and
was used on Ford Series 20009000
tractors from about 1965 on. Ask for Ford Part # D 5NN11N501A.
If you would still like to use a direct replacement that requires nothing other than wire for wire
exchange then we normally stock them. Ask for Jinma part number #TY290
© Tractor Outlet
P.O. Box 147
83548 Bowens Lane
Christmas Valley, Oregon 97641
VersionYay! I like a happy ending.
For what it is worth, I went out and looked at my 284 because I just could not remember how it was put together. It has the equipment style studs that are threaded into the hub, which is what my first guess was. The parts book that I was looking at earlier today shows it using bolts to hold the wheels on, so the parts book is wrong for my machine. Not the first time this has happened.
I hope your replacement parts are the correct ones and arrive soon.
Hmmm, now you have me thinking…
I have a 284 and it uses a threaded hub with bolts to hold the wheel on, no lug nuts. I guessed that your studs would be “equipment style”, that is, threaded into the hub.
I just looked the studs up online and they are indeed “automotive style” that have the head and spline shoulder that press in from the back side.
Since that appears to be the case, the splines strip out when someone uses a impact wrench (instead of a torque wrench) to install the lug nuts. over tightening definitely will strip the splines and cause the stud to spin.
You will need to knock the nut off of the stud to get anywhere. A cutting torch is one choice another is a BIG cold chisel and a BIG hammer swung with a lot of force. I would try the hammer option first in hopes of breaking the stud. The gas axe option has a lot more things that can go wrong.
With 4 of them spinning, the question then becomes “are the holes in the hub wobbled out too much?”
With luck, the splines on the stud stripped and the holes are still small enough to grip a new stud. You won't know until you get it all apart.
Options are to replace the hub (a lot of work I would imagine) or spot weld the head of the new stud to the hub. Not an elegant fix, but could save the price of a new hub.
Another option may be to get an oversized stud. The shoulder area would be slightly larger than original just for these kinds of situations. I don't know if they are available for your size or not. My guess is that they are metric. You may be able to find an English size that is slightly larger than the original, you may have to drill out the stud holes to make a larger stud fit. I know that lug nuts can be had in different taper sizes for the same size stud. Again, this is a “dirty” fix that makes real mechanics cringe, but may be the only option that is viable or even available.
Let us know what you find when you get it apart. I will keep my fingers crossed for an undamaged hub and tight fitting new studs!
Does the nut spin on the stud or does the stud spin in the hub?
If the nut spins on the stud, you could weld the nut to the stud and then try to unscrew the stud from the hub. You may need to apply penetrating oil and/or heat to the hub if it is stuck. Also a couple of sharp whacks on the stud may help “shock” it loose. If this all works then all you need is a new stud and nut. I recommend anti-seize on the stud.
If the stud spins in the hub, that is an uglier matter. Cutting the nut off with a torch, being careful not to hurt the wheel may be your only option. Once the wheel is out of the way you will have better access at least. You will probably have to drill out the old stud, hard to do if the darned thing is spinning.
Working on the assumption that the threads in the hub are still OK and it is just the stud that is damaged, you may be able to spot weld the remains of the stud to the hub. If you can do this on the face of the hub to keep the spot weld away from the threads, you should be able to then drill a hole through the stud using a diameter of drill that is slightly smaller than the threads in the hub. Then you can grind off the spot weld and use a chisel or punch to carefully knock the stud away from the threads of the hub.
If I didn't explain this very well, let me know and I will try again. It is clear in my head, just not sure I can translate it to text very well.
Let us know how it goes.
