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Did you find a part number for it or is it not serviced separately?
If you have a part number, web searches should turn up something.
If it is not serviced separately you may have to buy a whole pump to get it.
However, you could:
Take it apart to see if it something that can be repaired.
Check with a local diesel shop that does pump rebuilds. They sometimes have access to repair parts that are not available to the general public. They also may have that part from a scraped pump or be able to find one that will work.
Look for a used pump such on on eBay. You may be able to find one for sale as a parts pump.
Sounds like you have a good repair going.
Wheel alignment on tractors is not all that critical compared to a highway vehicle. I once bent the tie rod so badly that it pushed the toe out so badly that it was visible from the tractor seat. Still drove fine. Went back to shop, removed tie rod and straightened it in the press then put it all back together. Been fine for several years. I do occasionally wear out the OEM ends. Maybe next time I will just replace the whole setup with something domestic.
FYI: There are lots of apps that let you resize photos on your phone.
These tractors have really simple wiring. The only thing that I can think of that might get a little confusing is the alternator/regulator circuit. Relays can be a little confusing depending on how they are actuated, but they all work the same way.
Do you have a schematic?
Do you know how to test voltage and continuity?
You said you can’t read a schematic but these simple systems are the perfect place to learn. I would suggest doing a web search for “simple dc circuits” or some such. I would bet you will find all kinds of classroom style videos online.
You might also check a local trade school that might have some continuing education classes or adult classes at night. Also, another way to go might be a local high school, if you can find one that still teaches vocational ed classes.
If all else fails, a library should have plenty of good books on automotive wiring or how to read a schematic. Ask at the reference desk, they will help you.
I wouldn’t hesitate to tackle a complete re-wire of a Jinma and have threatened to do my own someday when I have the time. Already bought a new fuse block (not OEM crap) to do it right. My know how in wiring is all self taught. Just think of it as running a garden hose. The positive side of the battery is the faucet and the negative is the drain. The trick is to make all the water go where you want it, when you want it and to make sure it all goes down the drain with no leaks.
It is a little more complex than that, but not much, and it is a good way to get your head wrapped around following the traces in the schematic.
Best of luck and please ask questions. I may have a schematic for your tractor, or one close to it if you don’t have one.
Which tractor are you working on?
Fortunately I have never had to do this, but have looked at it on the Jinma 284 and it looks like it is pretty hard to get a straight shot at with a punch. Perhaps removing the floorboard would help. I think installation would be a little easier if you do it from the top which is roughly the 2 o’clock position.
It is my understanding that you install the larger pin first, then put the smaller one inside the larger one. This adds tension to hold it in place and adds shear strength.
Perhaps start the large pin until it gets about half way through. Then put some locking pliers on it to keep it from going any deeper and then start the small pin into the large pin. It will be easier if it is no t constrained by the hole. Once started remove the pliers and tap then both in together. You may have to hold a bucking bar on the back side so the big one does not come out before the small one is seated.
I have also wondered about putting a high strength bolt in that location rather than the roll pin but have not thought all the way through the consequences of doing it that way.
Probably the only test you can do with the injectors still in the engine is have it running and then crack open each hard line, one at a time. When the line leaks enough to stop the injector output you should be able to detect a definite change in engine sound and RPM.
You test each injector one at a time. If you don’t get a change on any one injector it would indicate that injector is not working anyway. Think of it like pulling spark plug wires on a gas engine that is missing. If you pull the wire from the bad plug, it doesn’t change anything.
This test will only tell you if you have a nearly or completely failed injector and won’t tell you anything about actual operating condition of any of them.
For a complete test of pop off pressure, spray pattern or dripping/leaking, you need to remove them and have them tested in a shop equipped to do so. For some people it is easier and/or more cost effective to just replace the injectors with new ones.
With that in mind, you could buy one new injector and put it in the front cylinder, start the engine and see if it runs different then before. If not, then the one you took out is probably OK, move it to the middle cylinder and try again. Then do the same to the back cylinder if the middle one is OK. Hopefully that will find your bad one.
Kind of like finding the bad bulb in the old fashioned screw in type Christmas tree lights. 🙂
It sounds like you are on the right track.
Just to be clear, the wheels going straight happens while driving, right?
One test for the cylinder on the axle is to remove the hoses and plug off the ends, making sure to keep as much oil in the cylinder as possible. Then jack both wheels off of the ground and see if you can make the wheels turn from side to side using hand pressure on the tires. If they easily turn it might indicate an internal leak in the cylinder.
If they turn but spring back, it is probably just air in the cylinder.
Best of luck and let us know what you find.
No picture came through.
Is the back of the engine wet with oil above the bell housing?
If not, you might be looking at splitting the tractor to fix.
Might help if you told us the make, model and year of the tractor. Without that info, everything is just a wild a** guess
I think you probably found your problem with the dry governor. Hopefully the parts inside are all OK and it just needed lube.
I change my governor oil at every engine oil change, it uses the same oil and only takes a few ounces. I also have a short piece of clear hose with a plug in it on the overflow nipple. That way I can monitor if it is overflowing or not. My IP leaks a little fuel into the governor and it will dilute the oil over time. This seems dependent on what I am doing, idling is the worst, full throttle working hard the level stays constant.
Take a look at page 40 of the first document on this page: http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html Feel free to download and keep any of the documents, I posted them for others to use, I didn’t create them, just passing them along.
Not knowing your exact injection pump, my best guess is that the lever is on a shaft that turns and is probably held on with a set screw, although it may have a flat on the shaft. Is there any chance that the lever is loose on the shaft? That might explain why it would not shut off properly.
If the lever is secure on the shaft about the only other thing I can think of is a problem inside the injection pump. I think the cut off lever actuates what is called the rack. The rack is used inside to meter fuel flow according to the throttle setting and the input from the governor. The cut off lever just keeps moving the rack until it has shut down the fuel flow to nothing.
I imagine that if the governor was holding the rack full open it might be possible that the cut off is not engaging the rack as to pull it back. This may be a governor problem or a problem with the rack/cut off connection.
When was the last time you changed the oil in the governor? If it is like the pump on my Y385 engine you can take the cover off and get a look at the governor inside. There should be some steel balls in there that should be in a slot like setup, If they are rusty or worn, that could be a problem.
In an emergency run-away situation you should always go for cutting off the airflow first because as David says, it can run a long time on fuel left in the hoses and filters. I know professional mechanics that always have a small piece of plywood available and easy access to the air intake opening any time they are starting a new or rebuild engine for the first time or any time they are starting an engine the first time after work on the injection pump. I even know a couple of them that had to use the plywood on some very large and expensive engines to stop a run away.
On your tractor, is the problem repeatable above 1900 RPM? or was it just a one time thing? If repeatable, I would have a look inside the governor housing for anything obvious then refill with new oil and test again. If still happening, I think it is time to take the IP to a shop for proper diagnosis.
I wish I had more experience with this sort of thing, but I am kind of glad I don’t….
Let us know what you find.
