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If you have a schematic and either a multi-meter or a battery and a test light it should be easy enough to test the switch either in the machine or on the bench.
It is also possible without a schematic but is a little more work.
Without knowing your electrical skill level it is hard to know how basic of a description you need.
First advice is to take a picture of the wires before you disconnect them. IF that is not possible, be sure and label them well so you can get them back where they belong.
A lot of people have upgraded to a Ford key switch which has better contacts and can take the load of the glow plugs better than the factory switch.
All of the wiring on these machines is barely adequate to function properly when new. As they age most of the spade connectors corrode and become loose. Both the crimp on the wire and the crimp that holds the female end onto the spade. This causes intermittent connectivity that manifests itself as all kinds of different issues.
If you follow the power from the battery to the switch it probably goes from the battery to a terminal on the starter, then to the amp meter then to the switch. Then the switch contacts will in turn energize the run, start and glow plug circuits. Fortunately these are done only one at a time so checking for continuity is straight forward.
You probably have a switch with the following positions from left to right.
Start – Off – Run – Start – Heat (glow plugs)
The start and heat positions are spring loaded and will not stay in those positions unless you hold it.
The run sends power out to the fuse box to power all the other accessories.
Either start will send power to the starter solenoid, probably through the same wire spliced together close to the switch.
Heat will go to the glow plug bus bar through the fuse in the fuse box.
What symptom(s) are you having that cause you to suspect the key switch is the issue?
Hope this helps and ask any questions you still have. Post pictures if you can.
I used the same thing on my tractor. Worked pretty good. Way better then buying a whole new lens assembly, even if they were available….
Also found out that you can use a number 880 Basic fog light bulb instead of the goofy right angle bulbs that come in the tractor. Available at any auto parts store and way cheaper too.
I found some LED replacements but waiting for the current ones to burn out (shouldn’t be long) before replacing them.
Did you find a part number for it or is it not serviced separately?
If you have a part number, web searches should turn up something.
If it is not serviced separately you may have to buy a whole pump to get it.
However, you could:
Take it apart to see if it something that can be repaired.
Check with a local diesel shop that does pump rebuilds. They sometimes have access to repair parts that are not available to the general public. They also may have that part from a scraped pump or be able to find one that will work.
Look for a used pump such on on eBay. You may be able to find one for sale as a parts pump.
Sounds like you have a good repair going.
Wheel alignment on tractors is not all that critical compared to a highway vehicle. I once bent the tie rod so badly that it pushed the toe out so badly that it was visible from the tractor seat. Still drove fine. Went back to shop, removed tie rod and straightened it in the press then put it all back together. Been fine for several years. I do occasionally wear out the OEM ends. Maybe next time I will just replace the whole setup with something domestic.
FYI: There are lots of apps that let you resize photos on your phone.
These tractors have really simple wiring. The only thing that I can think of that might get a little confusing is the alternator/regulator circuit. Relays can be a little confusing depending on how they are actuated, but they all work the same way.
Do you have a schematic?
Do you know how to test voltage and continuity?
You said you can’t read a schematic but these simple systems are the perfect place to learn. I would suggest doing a web search for “simple dc circuits” or some such. I would bet you will find all kinds of classroom style videos online.
You might also check a local trade school that might have some continuing education classes or adult classes at night. Also, another way to go might be a local high school, if you can find one that still teaches vocational ed classes.
If all else fails, a library should have plenty of good books on automotive wiring or how to read a schematic. Ask at the reference desk, they will help you.
I wouldn’t hesitate to tackle a complete re-wire of a Jinma and have threatened to do my own someday when I have the time. Already bought a new fuse block (not OEM crap) to do it right. My know how in wiring is all self taught. Just think of it as running a garden hose. The positive side of the battery is the faucet and the negative is the drain. The trick is to make all the water go where you want it, when you want it and to make sure it all goes down the drain with no leaks.
It is a little more complex than that, but not much, and it is a good way to get your head wrapped around following the traces in the schematic.
Best of luck and please ask questions. I may have a schematic for your tractor, or one close to it if you don’t have one.
Which tractor are you working on?
Fortunately I have never had to do this, but have looked at it on the Jinma 284 and it looks like it is pretty hard to get a straight shot at with a punch. Perhaps removing the floorboard would help. I think installation would be a little easier if you do it from the top which is roughly the 2 o’clock position.
It is my understanding that you install the larger pin first, then put the smaller one inside the larger one. This adds tension to hold it in place and adds shear strength.
Perhaps start the large pin until it gets about half way through. Then put some locking pliers on it to keep it from going any deeper and then start the small pin into the large pin. It will be easier if it is no t constrained by the hole. Once started remove the pliers and tap then both in together. You may have to hold a bucking bar on the back side so the big one does not come out before the small one is seated.
I have also wondered about putting a high strength bolt in that location rather than the roll pin but have not thought all the way through the consequences of doing it that way.
Probably the only test you can do with the injectors still in the engine is have it running and then crack open each hard line, one at a time. When the line leaks enough to stop the injector output you should be able to detect a definite change in engine sound and RPM.
You test each injector one at a time. If you don’t get a change on any one injector it would indicate that injector is not working anyway. Think of it like pulling spark plug wires on a gas engine that is missing. If you pull the wire from the bad plug, it doesn’t change anything.
This test will only tell you if you have a nearly or completely failed injector and won’t tell you anything about actual operating condition of any of them.
For a complete test of pop off pressure, spray pattern or dripping/leaking, you need to remove them and have them tested in a shop equipped to do so. For some people it is easier and/or more cost effective to just replace the injectors with new ones.
With that in mind, you could buy one new injector and put it in the front cylinder, start the engine and see if it runs different then before. If not, then the one you took out is probably OK, move it to the middle cylinder and try again. Then do the same to the back cylinder if the middle one is OK. Hopefully that will find your bad one.
Kind of like finding the bad bulb in the old fashioned screw in type Christmas tree lights. 🙂
It sounds like you are on the right track.
Just to be clear, the wheels going straight happens while driving, right?
One test for the cylinder on the axle is to remove the hoses and plug off the ends, making sure to keep as much oil in the cylinder as possible. Then jack both wheels off of the ground and see if you can make the wheels turn from side to side using hand pressure on the tires. If they easily turn it might indicate an internal leak in the cylinder.
If they turn but spring back, it is probably just air in the cylinder.
Best of luck and let us know what you find.
No picture came through.
Is the back of the engine wet with oil above the bell housing?
If not, you might be looking at splitting the tractor to fix.
Might help if you told us the make, model and year of the tractor. Without that info, everything is just a wild a** guess
I think you probably found your problem with the dry governor. Hopefully the parts inside are all OK and it just needed lube.
I change my governor oil at every engine oil change, it uses the same oil and only takes a few ounces. I also have a short piece of clear hose with a plug in it on the overflow nipple. That way I can monitor if it is overflowing or not. My IP leaks a little fuel into the governor and it will dilute the oil over time. This seems dependent on what I am doing, idling is the worst, full throttle working hard the level stays constant.
Take a look at page 40 of the first document on this page: http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html Feel free to download and keep any of the documents, I posted them for others to use, I didn’t create them, just passing them along.
