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Pretty straight forward as long as you don’t have any problems.
Remove the buss bar and unscrew the old plug, screw in a new one and replace the buss bar.
When I did mine the #3 cylinder plug was stuck in the hole. Unscrewing it just jacked the plug apart. I got the outer housing in the socket and the electrode was stuck in the head. Barely enough of the core to get a pair of needle nose vise grips on it. Used all kinds of penetrating fluid concoctions for several days and was only able to bust it loose enough to rotate about 10 degrees back and forth. Tried heat and all the other stuck stud tricks I knew of.
Then it dawned on me that the problem was carbon buildup and a stuck copper seal. The only thing that I had on hand to attack those two things at the same time was gun barrel cleaning solution. Picked the most powerful one I had and let is soak for a couple of days and was able to work it loose.
Best advice is go easy and be patient.
Good luck
You might try asking over on the tractorybynet.com forums.
I don’t have any information on a shuttle shift tractor and not many people monitor this site anymore.
Yes, when it fails.
On mine the lift pump was actuated by a push rod that runs on a cam inside the injection pump. The only seal between the IP pump and the fuel in the lift pump was a small o-ring. O-rings work pretty good in a static situation but are not so good in a sliding application like this one. After replacing the o-ring several times I got tired of the whole mess and just replaced the lift pump with an electric one. It was easy enough to make a cover plate and gasket to seal the IP crankcase.
I also found out that the banjo bolt fittings in the fuel line have a nice barbed nipple on the inside. Just cut the compression sleeve off and pull it out. Then it can be installed on a new fuel hose with a regular worm screw clamp. Wired the electric pump to a “hot when on” location and it has worked fine for several years.
To monitor the situation I made a little collection bottle from a clear pop bottle and connected it to the nipple on the overflow vent. As hours have built on the engine it has slowly developed a leak in the IP internally and is still getting fuel in the oil. Since it only takes 4 ounces or so, it is pretty easy to just change the IP sump oil more often. I am coming up on 900 hours on a tractor that was new in 2007 and have to change oil in the IP about every 25 hours.
Eventually the IP will need to be rebuilt or replaced, an expense I am not looking forward to, so frequent oil changes are the order of the day for now… Maybe I should replace the drain plug with a valve just to make it easier.
That is the crankcase/governor sump vent/overflow port.
I would start by completely draining and refilling the pump with fresh engine oil and monitor the overflow port to see if it is still overflowing. When the lift pump (the black housing above and to the right of your arrow) it will leak fuel into the pump crankcase and overflow it. It also dilutes the oil and can cause premature wear.
Take a look at this document starting on page 40 for more information on this.
http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Files/jinma_manual.pdf
Feel free to download a copy of this manual for your own use.
Please clarify:
By PS fluid do you mean hydraulic fluid?
What do you mean my left hydraulic lifter? Are you referring to a front end loader cylinder?
Or are you talking about the power steering hydraulic cylinder?
Where did you drain the fluid from?
What does the left hydraulic fork attach to?
I’m sure we can figure this out if we can define exactly what you are working on. Can you post a picture?
Jinma parts can be had at Affordable Tractors, Circle G Tractors and Keno Tractors, just to mention a few.
I like to use a length of chain. Easy to remove when done.
Some people use nuts and bolts for the same reason.
My 284 is always slow to get the 3 point moving in the winter even with light weight fluid and a pre-heat.
I cycle the hydraulics to get more action in the sump and warm things up faster. I find that if I raise the loader, then hold up on the 3pt lever as I lower the loader the 3pt will come up. But if you continue to hold the lever up, as soon as the loader hits ground the 3pt drops. Been that way since new.
As it warms up it will slowly start working normally.
Do you have a spin on filter? Suction or pressure side? Or is it just the brass screen on the pickup tube in the sump?
With the engine at high idle can you see any bubbles or foaming in the fluid if you look in the filler hole?
A lot of “old school” types will tell you to pre-fill the filter before screwing it on. I can tell you that at Caterpillar that is a BIG no-no! The reasoning is that you can get unclean fuel into the clean side without passing through the filter. On modern high precision systems it can cause damage. The proper procedure is to clean the area before removal of the old filter. Then clean the area again. Finally remove the protective film from the new filter only immediately prior to screwing it on. Use the primer system to get fuel through the filter. This makes sense to me although in all probability our “less precise” fuel systems are probably fine the other way, but why introduce dirt if you can avoid it.
I’m not sure on your Injector pump but on mine there is a bleed screw that has a ring through it. After a filter change, you loosen that screw and use the hand pump. This will pull fuel from the tank and push it up to the filter, filling it and expelling air towards the injector pump. Once you see a steady stream of fuel (no bubbles of air) you know the filter is full and there is fuel all the way to the IP. It should start and run normally, although there is a small possibility of tiny air bubbles causing to stumble for a few seconds as they get purged out.
It would be a really rare circumstance that you would need to bleed at the injectors, but that is doable it it won’t start.
Don’t forget to close off the bleed screw and tighten down the hand pump!
As a side note, when I assembled my tractor out of the crate I replaced the factory filter with one from NAPA after draining and flushing out the so called fuel that was in the system. (All fluids actually). The tractor is now 15 years old and has 875 hours on it with the filter I installed during assembly. The replacement is on the shelf, clean and dry in the box, just in case I ever need one.
Yes, I did that to my Jinma 284. It had a totally enclosed fan alternator that was fine but it only put out 14 amps and had an external voltage regulator that mounted in the fuse block. Had lots of issues with the wiring in the fuse block and when the regulator failed it was $25 plus shipping which put it at almost $40.
For $60 I bought a reconditioned Delco 12 Si. A little wiring and a slight mod to the mounting bracket and all was well. Plenty of power to run all the extra lights and possibly a small inverter if I need it.
I lost the functionality of the battery light in the dash but at the time the amp meter was working fine. It has since failed due to the needle being warped by sunlight and age. I added an aftermarket volt meter which also aids in troubleshooting although I do miss the amp meter.
Also, the Delco is an open frame alternator which means dirt and water can get inside. If I were doing a lot of mowing or other activity that put lots of plant dust in the air it might be a fire concern. As it is I just blow it out when I am doing other tractor maintenance and it has been fine. I also don’t hose it off directly with the pressure washer because there are bearings and brushes in there.
The alternator you have is connected to the battery at the starter stud. That is the main power point for the whole tractor and is electrically just a remote mounted positive battery terminal.
As usual, check all grounds. Corrosion and paint are your two worst enemies. I would start by checking for continuity from the alternator to ground and then for power at the + connector on the alternator. If that is good, check the wiring from there to the voltage regulator, where ever it may be. Wiring on these tractors is really poor at best. Crimped on ends have a tendency to work loose and break. If all is good you probably have a regulator issue.
There is a way to “full field” the alternator but I don’t remember it off the top of my head. In any case it probably varies a little with the type of regulator you have
Do you have a wiring schematic for your tractor?
Sounds like you are on the right track.
The parts diagrams don’t give much detail for your tractor but for the 200 series it shows a bearing at the bottom of the steering column and a snap ring (circlip by the book) that looks to retain the shaft to the bearing. The bearing is captured between the column housing and the mounting bracket.
To get to the snap ring it looks like you can take out the 4 bolts that hold the housing and the gearbox to the bracket then slide the column up through the hood far enough to get to the snap ring.
When you get it apart please post pictures so we can all see how it works.
Good luck!
