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Yes, I did that to my Jinma 284. It had a totally enclosed fan alternator that was fine but it only put out 14 amps and had an external voltage regulator that mounted in the fuse block. Had lots of issues with the wiring in the fuse block and when the regulator failed it was $25 plus shipping which put it at almost $40.
For $60 I bought a reconditioned Delco 12 Si. A little wiring and a slight mod to the mounting bracket and all was well. Plenty of power to run all the extra lights and possibly a small inverter if I need it.
I lost the functionality of the battery light in the dash but at the time the amp meter was working fine. It has since failed due to the needle being warped by sunlight and age. I added an aftermarket volt meter which also aids in troubleshooting although I do miss the amp meter.
Also, the Delco is an open frame alternator which means dirt and water can get inside. If I were doing a lot of mowing or other activity that put lots of plant dust in the air it might be a fire concern. As it is I just blow it out when I am doing other tractor maintenance and it has been fine. I also don’t hose it off directly with the pressure washer because there are bearings and brushes in there.
The alternator you have is connected to the battery at the starter stud. That is the main power point for the whole tractor and is electrically just a remote mounted positive battery terminal.
As usual, check all grounds. Corrosion and paint are your two worst enemies. I would start by checking for continuity from the alternator to ground and then for power at the + connector on the alternator. If that is good, check the wiring from there to the voltage regulator, where ever it may be. Wiring on these tractors is really poor at best. Crimped on ends have a tendency to work loose and break. If all is good you probably have a regulator issue.
There is a way to “full field” the alternator but I don’t remember it off the top of my head. In any case it probably varies a little with the type of regulator you have
Do you have a wiring schematic for your tractor?
Sounds like you are on the right track.
The parts diagrams don’t give much detail for your tractor but for the 200 series it shows a bearing at the bottom of the steering column and a snap ring (circlip by the book) that looks to retain the shaft to the bearing. The bearing is captured between the column housing and the mounting bracket.
To get to the snap ring it looks like you can take out the 4 bolts that hold the housing and the gearbox to the bracket then slide the column up through the hood far enough to get to the snap ring.
When you get it apart please post pictures so we can all see how it works.
Good luck!
This is going to sound weird and unbelievable but was my experience.
We rebuild a Lycoming aircraft engine and broke it in by the book. All was well but the oil consumption was more than I thought it should be. However it was just inside the “acceptable” oil use stated by Lycoming. One day I related this to an old school type mechanic and he asked what oil I was using. Aeroshell semi-synthetic. He said change to Phillips 66 straight mineral oil. I asked why was it that much better? Nope, but sometimes an engine just won’t like one oil or the other, if you had said Phillips I would have recommended going to Aeroshell.
Baffled and thinking this was more “wives tale” I switched at the next oil change and the oil consumption dropped more than 75%! At the next oil change I went back to Aeroshell since there was still some on the shelf and oil consumption went back up. Went back to Phillips and gave away my last few bottles of Aeroshell. I can’t explain it but that engine just didn’t like Aeroshell but only after the overhaul.
Switching brands and viscosity might be an interesting experiment for you to try.
The only other thing that I can think of is you may have a stuck piston ring after it sat for a while. In that case I would try what ever brand of “magic snake oil” additive you want. Something like Marvel Mystery oil, Sea Foam, etc. Something to help clean and maybe free up a stuck ring. Of course, they sometimes correct themselves with some use.
If the simple things don’t make a difference you may have to pull the head to see what is going on inside the engine. I have never done that on this model engine, but it seems pretty straight forward and should be easy especially with so few hours on it.
Have you had this tractor since new? If not, do you know what oil is in the engine?
Which engine is in a 2013?
Was the fuel tank full while it was parked? If not I would at least drain the sediment bowl and check for contamination. If any is found I would also replace the fuel filter, just because of the potential for “diesel bugs”. I don’t think diesel has the same aging problems that gasoline does, as long as you keep it water free.
In any case, yes blue indicates burning oil. I have seen new air cooled gas engines that were not properly broken in develop a glaze on the cylinder walls and the rings could not get seated properly so they burned oil like crazy. Don’t know if this could be a problem with a liquid cooled diesel or not, but it is something to think about.
You could pull samples from the fuel, crankcase and coolant for analysis. That will give you confirmation of quality/usefulness and tell if there are any cross contamination issues. At least that way you will have a baseline of information.
Even if everything tests ok, I would consider changing oil and filter at a minimum. Run it a few hours and pull another oil sample for comparison
Good luck and let us know what you find out.
There isn’t a lot of activity on this list anymore, many have moved on to other sites. Also at some point in the past the posts from “back in the day” were lost and a lot of information was gone too.
I’m not sure that splitting a tractor happens all that often. My 284 is 15 years old with 800+ hours and it has never been split. Might have to next time I use it though…
In any case, it is not a particularly hard thing to do, just terribly time consuming. Some 50 years ago my dad had to split an old Case tractor. We did it without an overhead crane, engine hoist or even a floor jack. It might take me a while to scrounge up all the items I would need and some looking and thinking time but I am confident I could do the 284 by myself.
The biggest issue most people have is if they had the clutch off the flywheel, getting it lined back up properly can be tricky. A pilot hole alignment pin is most helpful there. Many replacement clutches come with this handy aid as a part of the kit.
Another thing I remember was my dad used a couple of long “Redi-rod” to pull it back together.
Are you needing to split your tractor? If so, why?
There are a few videos on the internet that will show you the general procedure.
Let us know if you have specific questions and we will try to help.
When you step on the clutch you first feel the resistance of the pedal spring, then as the throwout bearing begins to move the transmission pressure plate you will feel more resistance and if in gear the tractor should stop moving but the PTO would keep turning if in use. As you continue to press the pedal the transmission pressure plate “picks up” the PTO pressure plate moves it away from the flywheel and dis-engages the PTO driven disc stopping everything.
As the clutch discs wear they get thinner and the pressure plate can no longer squeeze then tightly enough to keep them spinning under load and they slip. Slipping is bad as it can “burn up” the fiber in the disc and actually heat damage the pressure plates.
On your dual stage clutch there are three things to adjust. The free travel of the pedal before the throwout bearing contacts the clutch, the travel of the transmission pressure plate and the travel of the PTO pressure plate. These things have to all be in sync for it to work properly.
Free travel of the pedal is adjusted externally by moving the clevis on the rod between the pedal and the bellcrank that turns the rod going into the bell housing. The clutch plate adjustments are done through the side ports on the bell housing, this is where the FEL brackets attach.
The first time I did adjustments I completely removed the FEL, but then I figured a way to jack up the left side of the FEL and just remove the left bracket. Either way works fine.
The pin that sometimes gets sheared is what connects the bellcrank to the shaft that goes into the bell housing and is external so you can easily see it. If this shears, the pedal and bell crank move but the shaft does not and when you step on the clutch nothing happens. This is opposite of the problem you described but cleaning the paint off of the end of that shaft and bellcrank and using a witness mark to confirm the integrity of the pin is a good idea.
There are three adjusting nuts for each pressure plate and the goal is to adjust them so they apply equal pressure all the way around the disc and they lift the pressure plate off of the disc evenly all the way around. Remember that if you are adjusting for normal wear of the disc you will be moving the pressure plate towards the flywheel to take up the extra space.
I think you can follow the procedures in the manual and documentation and do just fine. It is cramped work space and hard to see in there but is completely doable without putting it on the bench like the manual says. One hint I can give is to number each adjusting spot on each plate so that you can keep track of which one you need to work on next. Also a quick web search may turn up some videos about how to do this.
Let us know if you have questions and also the results of your efforts. It may help others in the future.
Reading through your description it seems that you have an owners manual that shows the clutch diagram. Take a look at the manual I posted here: http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html (operation manual) and see if it is the same. Starting on page 22 it goes through the clutch adjusting procedure and is a pretty good explanation, but it took me actually looking at the clutch to completely wrap my head around it. Also on the same web page is a “Documentation” manual that has things worded a little differently starting on page 29. There is lots of other good info in there. Feel free to download a copy of anything on my site.
It seems you have a basic understanding but let’s go over clutch basics and define a few terms so we know what each other is saying.
The clutch is engaged when your foot is off the pedal and it is supposed to dis-engage when the pedal is fully depressed.
The clutch assembly is bolted to the flywheel and consist of the housing, springs, pressure plate and disc. The springs squeeze the disc between the pressure plate and the flywheel.
The disc is splined onto the input shaft to the transmission and quits turning when you dis-engage the clutch.
The pedal actuates a throwout bearing which then pushes against the clutch over-riding the built in spring pressure and moving the pressure plate away from the disc allowing it to stop spinning.
Our tractors with two stage clutches has an additional clutch disc that is connected to the PTO drive shaft. The transmission drive shaft is hollow and the PTO shaft goes through it to the PTO gears. The PTO disc is located next to the flywheel and there is a secondary pressure plate between the PTO and Trans discs (driven).
There is an external spring on the clutch pedal that keeps the pedal retracted and the throwout bearing away from the clutch so it does not spin needlessly.
(cont. in next post)
Yes, the start position should be only a “momentary on” switch and should spring back to the run position when released, just like your car does. If it is broke and the starter remains energized with the engine running you will damage the starter and related parts just as you have described. And probably worse.
There is a cover on the bell housings on each side. If you have a front end loader those covers come off and the loader brackets mount there. If no loader then it is easy to remove the cover to see the clutch. You can adjust the clutch through the opening but you have to split the tractor if the clutch needs replacing.
About all you can see through the opening is the edges of the clutch parts and if the clutch and disc are moving as you push the pedal down.
Two things that are fairly common on these tractors is that if they sit a long time (especially outside) the clutch plate can rust and stick to the disk. Then when you step on the pedal it does not have enough force to pull the plate away from disk and you can not get the transmission to shift while the engine is running.
The other thing that happens is the bell crank is attached to the actuating shaft with a roll pin. Sometimes the roll pin will shear and even though the bell crank is moving the shaft does not and stepping on the pedal has no effect. Put a witness mark across the end of the shaft and the bell crank then step on the pedal and observe to make sure the witness mark does not move.
Both of these scenarios have the same effect, you can not stop the transmission gears with the engine running and the gears will grind as you try to shift into any gear. That does not sound like what you are describing. What you are describing is a clutch that is not closing down on the disk and therefor is not spinning the input shaft of the transmission. About the only thing I can think of that would cause this is all or most of the pressure plate springs in the clutch have broken and it has no clamping force on the disk.
When you step on the pedal do you feel any resistance build up as the pedal goes down? This would be in addition to the pedal return spring that is on the outside of the tractor. If in doubt take that spring off and step on the pedal, there should be at least some resistance and “spring back” from the clutch.
Check out the files section on my web site and you will find some helpful information and pictures of the clutch assembly.
http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
Let us know what you find
