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Not sure what you mean by “yoke holder the rod in”.
Are you talking about a shifter fork?
Do you have a parts manual to look at for your tractor? There were a few different designs of transmissions used over the years.
Which gear you are replacing on which shaft?
Post a picture if you can so we know exactly what you are describing.
No breakdown of the box in my parts book either.
Once you disconnect the column shaft you can check the input shaft for free play. If lots of play a new seal is not likely to solve the problem If it is tight, it might be just a seal but I would expect to see a double seal in that application.
If you use your tractor a lot or need it to be ready on short notice I would order a new steering box and take the old one off for repair. If you can stand some down time go ahead and take it apart and see if it can be fixed. For me, I would take the old one apart just to see how it works. Then fix it if possible and have it for a spare. I know from another list that there have been several people with steering issues that have had to replace the box. Usually they involve poor or slow power steering.
That is strange. Could be you just had a defective oil filter. It does happen from time to time. Baldwin is usually a good filter. It could be the cross reference was bad or the filter wasn’t what it said it was on the box.
My 284 has the Y385 engine and I have had good luck with Fram 3600 filters. I think your engine is the QC385 which is EPA compliant for 2012.
The oil filling things gives me two thoughts. If you “fast filled” the valve cover, you maybe flooded all the return galleys at once and had an air-lock set up. It took a few minutes for one of the galleys to clear and let some air escape the crankcase so the rest of the oil could drain in.
My 2006 Y385 is pre EPA crap and it has a plain old breather cap sticking out of the right side of the engine block. It has a metal mesh inside that needs cleaning from time to time. You might look for something like that.
The air line that runs from the oil filler cap to the intake manifold is supposed to extract oil fumes and blow-by and recirculate it into the combustion chamber. That shouldn’t effect oil fill up.
Fill it to the full mark and run it to see what happens.
Let us know either way to help someone else that might have this issue.
Oil leaking at the filter is usually either a wrong filter or a loose filter. Sometimes the gasket from the old filter sticks to the adapter and will cause the new filter to not seal properly.
You listed make model and year of the tractor but what engine is in the tractor?
Can you post a picture of where it was leaking and where you put the oil in?
My engine is the Y385T and that is what the book is for, but in some places it shows Y380. Not sure what the differences are.
I have the engine parts book if you ever need anything, I can scan it and send it to you. The drawings are pretty clear.
There is no breakdown of the pump or even the hand pump. The book shows the same part number though.
3I329 (not a 1).
If I remember right, Bob R said it was a copy of a Bosch pump.
I suspect there will always be a little leak-by of diesel from the IP down into the crank sump. The Bosch’s may not leak but the copies are certain to as they are not made to the same tolerances. At least that is my experience with the hydraulic side of these tractors.
Here is my IP data plate.
Apologies: I previously said the lift pump had two bolts. It actually had 3 studs.
Hope this helps
There is a little o-ring on the plunger between the crankshaft side and the fuel side. I couldn’t keep one working in there. An absolutely wrong seal type for that application.
I had an old solenoid type impulse fuel pump on the shelf so I made a bracket and mounted that. Since I had done the Ranch Hand upgrade to the fuel bowl connecting the supply side was easy. I discovered that if you cut the ferrule off of the banjo fittings they just slide right out and 1/4″ ID fuel hose would slide on. I made a new hose to go from the new pump to the fuel filter using one of the banjo ends and hose clamps. Wired the fuel pump to the hot side of the key switch and it will move fuel up into the filter until the internal pressure limit is hit then turn off. It rarely makes more than one stroke when operating properly. No need for a hand primer pump.
The lift pump is held to the IP with two bolts. I had some pieces of aluminum about 1/8″ thick laying around so I traced the shape of the pump housing and made a plate. Cut out a gasket and covered it all up. Hasn’t been off since.
I can post pictures if you like.
Hi David,
I don’t have any information about the new style pump but on my 284 the fuel leak was from the lift pump. I replaced it with an electric pump and just made a plate and gasket to cover the hole.
I put a clear tube on the overflow elbow and stuck a bold in the end to plug the tube. That way I can see if there is any overflow. Usually a teaspoon full in about 50 hours. I think it might be fuel from the IP but I change oil every 100 hours with the engine so it doesn’t matter unless it gets worse.
You know, on second look it may not be that tight of a fit.
The diameter of the combined half washers is larger than the washer (38) next to the bearing. Then the gear slides down over the half washers capturing them on the shaft. The gear is captured in place by the inner bearing that is seated against the inside housing. The outer bearing and washer 38 are all captured in place by the cover (35).
It may all just fall apart once you take the cover off. That would be a lot more along the lines of thought the Chinese use when putting these things together. They don’t use extra complicated procedures when simple stuff will do.
Let us know what happens!
