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Yes, the start position should be only a “momentary on” switch and should spring back to the run position when released, just like your car does. If it is broke and the starter remains energized with the engine running you will damage the starter and related parts just as you have described. And probably worse.
There is a cover on the bell housings on each side. If you have a front end loader those covers come off and the loader brackets mount there. If no loader then it is easy to remove the cover to see the clutch. You can adjust the clutch through the opening but you have to split the tractor if the clutch needs replacing.
About all you can see through the opening is the edges of the clutch parts and if the clutch and disc are moving as you push the pedal down.
Two things that are fairly common on these tractors is that if they sit a long time (especially outside) the clutch plate can rust and stick to the disk. Then when you step on the pedal it does not have enough force to pull the plate away from disk and you can not get the transmission to shift while the engine is running.
The other thing that happens is the bell crank is attached to the actuating shaft with a roll pin. Sometimes the roll pin will shear and even though the bell crank is moving the shaft does not and stepping on the pedal has no effect. Put a witness mark across the end of the shaft and the bell crank then step on the pedal and observe to make sure the witness mark does not move.
Both of these scenarios have the same effect, you can not stop the transmission gears with the engine running and the gears will grind as you try to shift into any gear. That does not sound like what you are describing. What you are describing is a clutch that is not closing down on the disk and therefor is not spinning the input shaft of the transmission. About the only thing I can think of that would cause this is all or most of the pressure plate springs in the clutch have broken and it has no clamping force on the disk.
When you step on the pedal do you feel any resistance build up as the pedal goes down? This would be in addition to the pedal return spring that is on the outside of the tractor. If in doubt take that spring off and step on the pedal, there should be at least some resistance and “spring back” from the clutch.
Check out the files section on my web site and you will find some helpful information and pictures of the clutch assembly.
http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
Let us know what you find
Do you have the owners manual, service manual or parts manuals?
Do you have drum or disk brakes?
All I have to go on is the manuals for the Jinma 284, if that is even the same tractor….
Not sure what you mean by “yoke holder the rod in”.
Are you talking about a shifter fork?
Do you have a parts manual to look at for your tractor? There were a few different designs of transmissions used over the years.
Which gear you are replacing on which shaft?
Post a picture if you can so we know exactly what you are describing.
No breakdown of the box in my parts book either.
Once you disconnect the column shaft you can check the input shaft for free play. If lots of play a new seal is not likely to solve the problem If it is tight, it might be just a seal but I would expect to see a double seal in that application.
If you use your tractor a lot or need it to be ready on short notice I would order a new steering box and take the old one off for repair. If you can stand some down time go ahead and take it apart and see if it can be fixed. For me, I would take the old one apart just to see how it works. Then fix it if possible and have it for a spare. I know from another list that there have been several people with steering issues that have had to replace the box. Usually they involve poor or slow power steering.
That is strange. Could be you just had a defective oil filter. It does happen from time to time. Baldwin is usually a good filter. It could be the cross reference was bad or the filter wasn’t what it said it was on the box.
My 284 has the Y385 engine and I have had good luck with Fram 3600 filters. I think your engine is the QC385 which is EPA compliant for 2012.
The oil filling things gives me two thoughts. If you “fast filled” the valve cover, you maybe flooded all the return galleys at once and had an air-lock set up. It took a few minutes for one of the galleys to clear and let some air escape the crankcase so the rest of the oil could drain in.
My 2006 Y385 is pre EPA crap and it has a plain old breather cap sticking out of the right side of the engine block. It has a metal mesh inside that needs cleaning from time to time. You might look for something like that.
The air line that runs from the oil filler cap to the intake manifold is supposed to extract oil fumes and blow-by and recirculate it into the combustion chamber. That shouldn’t effect oil fill up.
Fill it to the full mark and run it to see what happens.
Let us know either way to help someone else that might have this issue.
Oil leaking at the filter is usually either a wrong filter or a loose filter. Sometimes the gasket from the old filter sticks to the adapter and will cause the new filter to not seal properly.
You listed make model and year of the tractor but what engine is in the tractor?
Can you post a picture of where it was leaking and where you put the oil in?
My engine is the Y385T and that is what the book is for, but in some places it shows Y380. Not sure what the differences are.
I have the engine parts book if you ever need anything, I can scan it and send it to you. The drawings are pretty clear.
There is no breakdown of the pump or even the hand pump. The book shows the same part number though.
3I329 (not a 1).
If I remember right, Bob R said it was a copy of a Bosch pump.
I suspect there will always be a little leak-by of diesel from the IP down into the crank sump. The Bosch’s may not leak but the copies are certain to as they are not made to the same tolerances. At least that is my experience with the hydraulic side of these tractors.
