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There is a little o-ring on the plunger between the crankshaft side and the fuel side. I couldn’t keep one working in there. An absolutely wrong seal type for that application.
I had an old solenoid type impulse fuel pump on the shelf so I made a bracket and mounted that. Since I had done the Ranch Hand upgrade to the fuel bowl connecting the supply side was easy. I discovered that if you cut the ferrule off of the banjo fittings they just slide right out and 1/4″ ID fuel hose would slide on. I made a new hose to go from the new pump to the fuel filter using one of the banjo ends and hose clamps. Wired the fuel pump to the hot side of the key switch and it will move fuel up into the filter until the internal pressure limit is hit then turn off. It rarely makes more than one stroke when operating properly. No need for a hand primer pump.
The lift pump is held to the IP with two bolts. I had some pieces of aluminum about 1/8″ thick laying around so I traced the shape of the pump housing and made a plate. Cut out a gasket and covered it all up. Hasn’t been off since.
I can post pictures if you like.
Hi David,
I don’t have any information about the new style pump but on my 284 the fuel leak was from the lift pump. I replaced it with an electric pump and just made a plate and gasket to cover the hole.
I put a clear tube on the overflow elbow and stuck a bold in the end to plug the tube. That way I can see if there is any overflow. Usually a teaspoon full in about 50 hours. I think it might be fuel from the IP but I change oil every 100 hours with the engine so it doesn’t matter unless it gets worse.
You know, on second look it may not be that tight of a fit.
The diameter of the combined half washers is larger than the washer (38) next to the bearing. Then the gear slides down over the half washers capturing them on the shaft. The gear is captured in place by the inner bearing that is seated against the inside housing. The outer bearing and washer 38 are all captured in place by the cover (35).
It may all just fall apart once you take the cover off. That would be a lot more along the lines of thought the Chinese use when putting these things together. They don’t use extra complicated procedures when simple stuff will do.
Let us know what happens!
Hi Ron,
I haven’t had that part of my hubs apart. I replaced the seals between #42 and standing shaft housing #25. Something I would call a king pin housing. Interesting that they use the same seals in both applications.
It sounds like the gear is a press fit on the shaft and the two half washers are the friction surface. I have never seen that before and if that is all that holds the wheels (shaft #33) onto the tractor it seems a little iffy to me.
Based on the surface area of the washers it must be a pretty tight press fit. It would take a pretty good gear puller to get it off of the shaft if that is the case.
It looks like there is room enough between the gear and the cover to get a press plate in there for use in a hydraulic shop press but building the supports to reach around the shaft and cover will be a challenge.
From the drawing in the frontaxleservice.pdf it looks like you won’t have to move the gear very far to clear the half washers. I never would have guessed that is what they are or their purpose just looking that the drawing. And the way the gear is tight to the shoulder on the shaft you would never guess that there were half washers inside.
If you can, please post pictures as you take it apart.
Hi Ron,
I’m not sure I follow your reference to two half washers.
Here are some diagrams with numbers. What seal are you after and what gear is in your way?
I have only had mine apart far enough to replace seal numbers 28,29 and 30 from the parts diagram. That was a real pain and I had to put speedi-sleeves on the shaft where the dirt in the old seals had worn groves in the housing. Don’t scrape the gasket off of the top cap, it is a thickness shim used to set the backlash on the gears. As long as you aren’t messing with the gears, everything should be fine just putting it back together. Unless of course your backlash needs adjusting.
Good work Len. I would say that the fuse box mounting leaves a little to be desired. It is subject to a great deal of vibration being out on that long moment arm and the grounding back through all those bolted connections is bound to introduce resistance to the circuits. Nickle based anti-seize is your friend on all those bolts. A cross brace a the end of the bar holding the horn would help a lot. The brass ends that are crimped on the wires will work harden and break. Ask me how I know….
Hi Len,
No, don’t wire it to the idiot light. That could mess up the voltage regulator.
The purpose of the amp meter is to show current flow of the whole system.
Follow the positive wire from the battery to the post on the starter. That is just a connection point and does not involve the starter motor. It then goes through the master fuse (30 A) and then to the gauge then to the hot side of the switch. With the key off, nothing is flowing anywhere. When you turn the key to run, then all other circuits (except the alternator) are fed through the switch. If you trace the wires you will see that the idiot light is connected to the regulator and is not fed through the amp meter.
David was right, if you take the hot wire off of the switch (the one from the 30A fuse) and put it on the gauge where it is marked – Then connect the the gauge side marked + back to the switch where you took the other wire off you will have the gauge inserted into the main trunk of the system. It will be in the circuit between the alternator and the battery where it can indicate flow to/from the battery.
I am surprised you tractor didn’t have a gauge in the first place. Do you have a wiring diagram for your specific tractor? Jinma usually put little plastic tags with numbers on the wires for identification.
What you described as a horn sure sounds like it is. A picture would tell for sure. Also, there is a relay involved. If you are seeing battery voltage at the switch but nothing happens there are two possibilities. 1) the switch is not connecting to ground or 2) the relay is not closing properly. Follow the path from the battery, through the fuse and down to the relay. From there you can see where completing the circuit through the switch will activate the relay and connect terminals 30 and 87 internally.
To test the horn connect a jumper wire to a hot connection point (battery, starter, or B terminal on alternator) and momentarily touch the terminal on the horn. Also, you can put a test light or VOM on the terminal and watch it while hitting the switch. No light is probably a switch or relay problem. If you are getting power to the horn but no sound it is a ground problem or a bad horn. You can replace it with any 12V horn you can find at any auto store.
Here is the schematic for my 284 so you can see how the factory did it. I added a small volt meter so now I can monitor battery voltage as well as alternator voltage. The amp meter allows me to see how much current is flowing through the system and in which direction.
The plastic screen is a little hard to see but it might have what is known as “bugs” trapped in it. There is a strain of bacteria that live on diesel fuel and once a tank gets infested it can really cause problems. When they die they sink to the bottom of the tank and collect in screens and filters eventually plugging them. That is not the worst part though, the dead ones (and maybe their waste) is highly corrosive and damaging to anything metal. The bugs live in water that gets into the system. There is a whole other discussion about bugs.
If there was no oil in the IP or governor it very well could be that the governor is stuck. Same goes for the fuel cut off rack. Did you test that to see if you can feel it moving? Take a look at page 40 of this document.
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Files/jinma_manual.pdf
The stuck hand pump plunger also speaks to either rust or bugs. It should turn counter clockwise until the threads release and the spring pushes the plunger up. I suppose it could have dirt in the threads or be cross threaded but something is not right there. In any case I think you can safely remove the plunger assembly from the lift pump body casting. It appears there is a hex surface to put a wrench on where it meets the main body just above where the hose connects.
As for using a solvent in the IP/governor, I would just fill it with diesel and let it sit. I would leave the rubber cap on the overflow tube and fill it all the way to the top. After a day or so, pull the cap and let it drain until it stops dripping. Then hit the starter for a few seconds a couple of times to slosh the diesel around inside. Let sit another day or so and hit it again. Then pull the drain plug and let it drain completely. Fill with engine oil and have another go at cranking and checking for fuel flow at the injectors. Hopefully this will free up whatever is stuck.
I think you are probably OK to take the housing off of the governor end so you can have a look-see inside. Just be careful not to let any parts drop out. I wouldn’t mess with the IP side of things or the IP to engine mounting.
At this point I am still leaning on a stuck rack due to rust and/or bug corrosion. No oil didn’t help any either.
Let us know what progress you make.
The fittings on my 284 with a Y385T engine were surprisingly 1/4″ NPT. Hope yours are too.
The valve in the oil filter is likely referring to the bypass valve that lets the engine get unfiltered oil should the filter become plugged. I wouldn’t dump oil back to the sump and cause no pressure. A plugged filter could cause low pressure though.
When you turn on the key switch but before you crank the engine, look to see if there is a light on the dash that comes on. The ones I have seen had a light for the alternator and one for the oil pressure in addition to the gauges. Mine has both and One time I got the wires mixed up between the sender and the switch for the light. Boy did that show some goofy readings until I figured it out!
